Outboard Advice

[Jimske]

Thanks in advance for the advice! Essentially I want to know if I can "blow out" or "flush out" (there is no running water currently at my marina in Connecticut) my cooling system on my 1989 Yamaha 9.9ob. Because if I can that is what I am going to try and do if that solves my problem. . .

Some background. Engine starts but no water circulates so I just shut it off after 15 or 30 seconds max. Been out in the air all winter and I started it once in the cold a few months ago but still no water so just shut if off and was thnking I would have better chance in warmer weather.

Engine serviced winter of 05/06, new impeller. Mechanic said it was in good running condition. Likely has no more than 20 hours on it summer of 06 - ran fine. I keep a gas additive in my fuel to hopefully prevent carbuerator issues.

The marina mechanic says it is likely the impeller and he needs to put the engine in the shop and it may have other problems and maybe I should think of getting a new engine and because I start it before I lower it in the water I may have ruined the engine. I told him that I have been using the engine in this manner for three years and it ran fine when I shut it off last Spring.

Well maybe he is right but frankly I don't trust these marinas. So I want to try and figure this out myself or bring another head into the picture for advice.

Jim

PS. The pic shows my tri with enigne sitting all winter of 04/05> Started up fine that Spring.

[ssullivan]

Jim,

I don't trust marinas either, but it sounds like the guy is right. If you started the outboard without it being submerged or with those "ear muffs" to provide water to the impellor, you probably toasted the impellor.

Time to change it again... and this time... make sure to keep the outboard fully hydrated with cooling water any time it is started. As another note, jam a coat hanger up the cooling water outlet (gently) with the engine running (in the water!) and see if you can dislodge anything. It's happened to me before that I had a little stick or some gunk up there that stopped or slowed the flow.

If that doesn't work... order the impellor kit.

[Jimske]

Yep; two things. Unfortunately I cannot reach the engine while it is submerged so I always start it and drop it. I've done this a hundred times. This tiime it killed the impeller?

I take it you are saying the "ear muffs" won't circulate the water?

And, finally, can I do the impeller myself from my dink?

Jim

Originally Posted by ssullivan

Jim,

I don't trust marinas either, but it sounds like the guy is right. If you started the outboard without it being submerged or with those "ear muffs" to provide water to the impellor, you probably toasted the impellor.

Time to change it again... and this time... make sure to keep the outboard fully hydrated with cooling water any time it is started. As another note, jam a coat hanger up the cooling water outlet (gently) with the engine running (in the water!) and see if you can dislodge anything. It's happened to me before that I had a little stick or some gunk up there that stopped or slowed the flow.

If that doesn't work... order the impellor kit.

[ssullivan]

Ahhh... makes sense. No way to start it while it's submerged. This will cause *added* wear on your impeller and possilbly cause it to fail more frequently than an average impeller, but you're right... doing that once won't kill it. However, doing it many times might. Maybe your number was up this time?

Either way, it definitely sounds like the impleller. There aren't many other things in there responsible for water movement.

Sorry... last post didn't read correctly. I meant to say you need to use the "ear muffs" if you have it out of the water. My mistake with the wording. They will indeed deliver the water you need to keep the impeller from wearing while running the outboard off the boat.

You could do the impeller yourself from the dink if it's very calm and you are *very* careful with the lower unit as you pull it apart. You will also have oil coming out to catch during this procedure. Best if you can get the engine off with the dink and then move the outboard to a dock or some shoreside facility for the actual process. It can be a pain to get the prop nut off, and you need to contort and whatnot sometimes.

I'm doing a Johnson 9.9's impeller next week. I'm selling the motor and want to have it in perfect shape for whoever buys it. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me. I had an old outboard on my 1st sailboat I had to do this with very frequently. Now that you mention your process of starting and then splashing, I was doing the same thing back then with mine. Maybe there is a connection.

Originally Posted by Jimske

Yep; two things. Unfortunately I cannot reach the engine while it is submerged so I always start it and drop it. I've done this a hundred times. This tiime it killed the impeller?

I take it you are saying the "ear muffs" won't circulate the water?

And, finally, can I do the impeller myself from my dink?

Jim

[Starbuck]

Jim,

The "earmuffs" is a device connected to a garden hose & then clipped to the lower unit to supply cooling water to the motor when it is run on a stand. It's typically used to flush out salt from the water channels. But you don't have running water, so you don't need to concern yourself with it.

Because the impellor is water-lubricated, running it dry will accelerate its rate of wear. If it's really true that it isn't practical to pull the rope while the lower end is submerged, try to get it in the H2O as soon as you can after it fires.

Welcome Back, Sean.

[Pura Vida]

hey Sullivan

[Jimske]

Hmmm. Thanks for that advice Sullivan. Unfortunately, the marina doesn't turn the water on until 4/15 - the date which I must vacate; therwise I would like to run water with the ear muffs and see if it is jus a clog. I will try the coat hanger thing. If that doesn't work I guess I will yank it and bring it to a shop. Sounds like it may be tough for me alone working off the dink.

Jim

[ssullivan]

Jim,

I'm in the same situation. I'm out on 4/15 as well. Another alternative might be to rig up some kind of stand for the outboard and drop it in a plastic barrel full of water, like they do in the outboard shop. You could use local seawater, rather than the dock's water. It's a hassle, but would work.

[s/v 'Faith']

Some background. Engine starts but no water circulates so I just shut it off after 15 or 30 seconds max.

Something to know about this motor is that the opening that the tell tail stream opening is very small. (the little jet of water that lets you know the impeller is pumping water)

It is very possible that the problem is only that the opeing is plugged, and a fine peice of wire a couple of inches long can be inserted to clear it.

The impeller does not like to be run dry, but the impeller Yamaha uses is a much better quality then other impellers I have seen. A 4 year old impeller from your engine is probably in as good a shape as one used for one season in an mercury.

[s/v 'Faith']

Found a good vendor for outboard parts, thought I would pass it on;

.......I found; Boats.net - The Alternative to Retail Prices they have an excellent online ordering system that allows you to access the exploded parts diagrams online to see the exact part you want to order.
I checked the prices on a couple of items and found they were lower then the dealer I have used locally (who is much More interested in doing business with the bigger motors then wasting their time with me).

I got my parts in, they were shipped quickly. The throttle on this motor takes two cables, they are listed as a 'throttle cable assembly' in the IPB. The quantity needed in this IPB is listed as '1'. I ordered the one assembly, and received only one of the cables I needed.
So, when the order came in I called outboards.net and had a person on the phone withinn 30 seconds of making the call. She looked at the situation with me, and is fed-ex'ing me the second cable.
Pretty happy with their service. ;D


(I am not connected to these folks in any way other then as a satisfied patron).

[Jimske]

I am going to try that this weekend. Hope it works. Also, someone told me the USCG is now using a "Globe Impeller" which can run dry for 15 minutes. ??

If no good I am going to try and pull the lower unit from my dink and haul it to a shop.

Jim

Originally Posted by s/v 'Faith'

Something to know about this motor is that the opening that the tell tail stream opening is very small. (the little jet of water that lets you know the impeller is pumping water)

It is very possible that the problem is only that the opeing is plugged, and a fine peice of wire a couple of inches long can be inserted to clear it.

The impeller does not like to be run dry, but the impeller Yamaha uses is a much better quality then other impellers I have seen. A 4 year old impeller from your engine is probably in as good a shape as one used for one season in an mercury.

[Jimske]

Apparently the impeller is the cause since I cleaned everything out as best I could and still no water flow. So, I removed 4 nuts to drop the lower unit. . .won't come off. I tap, tap tapped with a mallet to no avail. Is there a trick to this? OR. As someone said the shaft may be seized and might even break when the lower does come off? Is this new engine time? Any advice as to where I can go from here?

Thanks again, Jim

[ssullivan]

Jim,

All I can think of is that one of two things are happening:

1) Your outboard is in reverse or whatever gear pulls up on the shift rod. The tapping should have dropped it out of gear, but may not have for some reason.

2) If you have definitely removed all of the correct bolts holding the lower unit, the two housings (lower unit and shaft housings) are stuck together and may need a little more of a tap.

** It's important to note that you must remove the lower unit in a vertical fashion- not allowing twist or bending off its axis, which could bend the drive shaft. Still, a good whack or two, placed carefully and vertically downward should free the housings IF you have all the bolts removed.

Outboards are pretty simple little machines - like lawnmowers. Parts are readily available, so even with a bent driveshaft, an outboard is repairable. I doubt that is your case though, since a bent shaft would still come free with a hammer tap.

[Jimske]

In the end I will leanr something about something I know little about - outboards.

Going to double check what I've done so far and try and make sure I understand how this is supposed to come off. Two housings? Lower and shaft housing? I may not know exactly how this thing is supposed to come off. going to eep digging -thanks.

Originally Posted by ssullivan

Jim,

All I can think of is that one of two things are happening:

1) Your outboard is in reverse or whatever gear pulls up on the shift rod. The tapping should have dropped it out of gear, but may not have for some reason.

2) If you have definitely removed all of the correct bolts holding the lower unit, the two housings (lower unit and shaft housings) are stuck together and may need a little more of a tap.

** It's important to note that you must remove the lower unit in a vertical fashion- not allowing twist or bending off its axis, which could bend the drive shaft. Still, a good whack or two, placed carefully and vertically downward should free the housings IF you have all the bolts removed.

Outboards are pretty simple little machines - like lawnmowers. Parts are readily available, so even with a bent driveshaft, an outboard is repairable. I doubt that is your case though, since a bent shaft would still come free with a hammer tap.

[Jimske]

That is a good site - I will likely b using it in the future - thanks. Can't quite see how the lower unit comes off. going to ahve to ask around.

Originally Posted by s/v 'Faith'

Found a good vendor for outboard parts, thought I would pass it on;



I got my parts in, they were shipped quickly. The throttle on this motor takes two cables, they are listed as a 'throttle cable assembly' in the IPB. The quantity needed in this IPB is listed as '1'. I ordered the one assembly, and received only one of the cables I needed.
So, when the order came in I called outboards.net and had a person on the phone withinn 30 seconds of making the call. She looked at the situation with me, and is fed-ex'ing me the second cable.
Pretty happy with their service. ;D


(I am not connected to these folks in any way other then as a satisfied patron).