New Engine / Saildrive installation

[Glassman]

Hi everyone, hoping someone can help me? I am installing a new Volvo Engine with a 130S Saildrive . My boat was a conventional shaft drive vessel with a seawater intake at a thru hull which routes to a strainer then to the engine. Long story but my question is, the engine will now get its seawater through the Saildrive and am wondering if I still Should have a seawater strainer in the line. The unit shipped with a hose that is just the right shape and size to run from the intake fitting at the Saildrive to the water pump.
Any thoughts? Will the pickup in the drive foot act as a strainer?

Thanks in Advance.


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[captainjay]

You not only need the strainer but very likely need a vented loop as well. Read the install manual very carefully.

http://www.eddievan.com/documents/en...tionmanual.pdf

[Glassman]

Thanks for the heads up with regard to the vacuum breaker for the raw water system. My original engine had a small copper pipe tied in to the exhaust riser that went up to a vent fitting up at the toe rail. Would it be sufficient to plumb in a tee into the raw water piping just a head of the heat exchanger. I don't have sufficient height to make a raised loop but I am thinking it will still allow for air to be drawn back in to the system when the engine is shut down. While the engine is running there would be a small stream of water going overboard.
Any thoughts are appreciated.







Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[DougR]

The vast majority of OEM saildrive installations just use the molded hose from the saildrive to the sea water pump without any strainer, and the saildrive water supply slots function as a strainer. This functions adequately in most situations. You could, however, install a strainer between the saildrive water outlet and the pump inlet, or you could forget the saildrive pickup altogether and use the existing thru hull fitting and strainer.

My personal recommendation (after 30+ years of VP employment) would be to use the existing thru hull and strainer. Mix up some filled epoxy putty and fill the water pick up slots in the drive leg and also the water pickup up hole in the bottom of the drive. Give the cured epoxy a coat of barrier coat and bottom paint the leg with a suitable paint. Close off the water valve on the inside of the boat and forget about it. The reason I recommend this is that shell growth can occur within the water passages of the drive and it can be a pain to clean out.

Your idea about placing a "T" in the seawater hose between the pump and the HE and using that as a vacuum break is fine. It will give you a visual indication of pump operation and also avoid the potential problem of vacuum valve salting up and sticking closed. Try to run the hose such that there are no sags or dips that may retain water after the engine shuts down.

DougR