Need Advice on Fuel Treatment Regimine

[jpendoley]

Hi all,
Having rebuilt my Westerbeke 40 (Perkins 4-108) and installed a new aluminum tank , I need advice on treating fuel. Specifically, treating to prevent water formation and algae. I,d like a simple program that keeps my tank in good shape. What's the concensus on a proven and practical approach. Of course , I have a new Racor as primary. No polishing loop at this point . Any advice greatly appreciated.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by jpendoley

Hi all,
Having rebuilt my Westerbeke 40 (Perkins 4-108) and installed a new aluminum tank , I need advice on treating fuel. Specifically, treating to prevent water formation and algae. I,d like a simple program that keeps my tank in good shape. What's the concensus on a proven and practical approach. Of course , I have a new Racor as primary. No polishing loop at this point . Any advice greatly appreciated.

Nearly all water comes from leaks. Hopefully these were addressed during replacement, but make sure the cap is tight, the O-ring in good condition, and the filler is not in a drainage path.

[jpendoley]

All good on those points-fill pipe is beneath cockpit floor and has a cap. Installed on a slope to expedite drainage. I’m inquiring about fuel treatments and additives. PreviouslyI used Stabil for diesel Every time I fueled up and a biocide a couple times a season. My local parts store suggested Howe’s Lubricant as an additional lubricant which I did add in the old tank, but I’m not sure that it did not foul up my fuel more than it helped. What do others add to their fuel?

[Chotu]

I’m with thinwater.

You don’t need to treat anything. Keep water out, check your Racor and change when necessary, drain the bowl, use some fuel to keep it fresh.

[mvweebles]

Stanadyne. Available at shops that rebuild injection pumps (which should tell you something). It absorbs small amounts of water. If you have larger amounts of water, it came from either a leak in your tank or came aboard with the fuel due to a leak in the holding tank. Algae form in the boundary layer of diesel and water so if you keep the water out, you will keep critters out.

Best protections are getting fuel from reliable sources, then using it in a reasonable amount of time.

Peter

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I’m with thinwater.

You don’t need to treat anything. Keep water out, check your Racor and change when necessary, drain the bowl, use some fuel to keep it fresh.

Agree!

Keep water out. Replace the fill cap O Ring. Check for water with a dip tube. We have a water removing 1micron continuous polisher. I never use the expensive bottles of snake oil. This also was the advice of the old guy Diesel engine expert at Torresen Marine where we started.

[thinwater]

I didn't say don't use additives or that they were snake oil. A few seem to have taken it that way. In fact, I have been involved in 3rd party additive testing and standards development. Some are snake oil, but some, most certainly, are not.


Biocides. Biobor is probably the best known, is used in jet fuel, is a registered pesticide, and is certainly not snake oil. Used at the recommended dose it will prevent most bacterial and fungal (not algae--that would require light) infections. Keeping the fuel very dry also helps. And by the way, it does NOT just grow at he water/diesel interface, it can grow practically anywhere in the fuel system using only dispersed water.



Biocides are not good for curing an existing infection, and this has given them a bad name in some circles. They kill the bacteria alright, and then it sloughs off en mass and clogs everything. If you have an infection you need to pump out and clean first.


Water absorbants. Many engine manufactures dislike these because they can result in water and salt going through the injectors. Avoid them.


Corrosion inhibitors. This is the main value of Stabil, IMO. It greatly reduces corrosion of aluminum and brass. Corrosion of brass may seem unimportant , but that is a longer story.


Sail Delmarva: Are We the Cause of Fuel Breakdown?


Assuming that the OP lost the tank due to internal corrosion, I'd go with Stabil and Biobor. Not snake oil.

[a64pilot]

To expand on biocides they are a pesticide, and like most pesticides they are best used as preventatives. They will kill the bugs after you have an infestation, but then you have a tank full of dead bugs to deal with, it’s best to kill them before they grow and form colonies, just like roaches, kill the first one that gets in the kitchen, don’t wait until you have thousands, meaning add it with every fill not a couple times a year.

Many better fuel sources already have some biocide in them, you think you have a problem when you get an infestation in a 50 gl tank, imagine what one is like in a 5,000 gl tank or larger. It can cost a fortune to deal with, smarter suppliers treat their fuel and prevent that problem.

[Chotu]

Addendum: I do use stabil for longer term storage. However, that’s on my gasoline powered boat. I don’t use anything with diesel.

[Lepke]

There are 2 main types of diesel additives. One helps your Racor separate out water and the other absorbs the water into the fuel. Most have a biocide, stabilizer, lube enhancer and other additives.
Larger engine injectors usually handle small amounts of water ok. Smaller ones sometimes have their tips damaged by the rapidly expanding steam.
I use Archoil AR6200 and have for several years, initially for my truck. I run a 2 micron primary without problems and have successfully stored diesel for over 2 years, although it's only rated to stabilize for a year. It also helps the fuel burn, I get between 6-10% better mileage (depending on the mix) with it than without. I use about 5,000 gallons a season, so it helps. Also the lube helps my Detroit injectors-lots of internal parts.

Archoil.com or Amazon or eBay.

[lhuff35204]

The combined Star Tron/Biobor JF blend performed well against tank corrosion.
https://www.practical-sailor.com/boa...esel-additives

[Granfalloon]

I agree with all of the above and would add:
- When adding fuel to your tank use a Mr. Funnel - fuel filter (keeps any water from going in your tank) when filling.
- Keeping the tank from getting to low on fuel which allows moisture/water from forming.

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Addendum: I do use stabil for longer term storage. However, that’s on my gasoline powered boat. I don’t use anything with diesel.

Stabil has two uses:

1. Long term storage. It has addirtivse that reduce fuel polymerization.
2. Corrosion protection. This is a day-to-day function, particularly valuable with aluminum carburetors (with e10, corrosion products are the leading cause of jet fouling), but valuable with all metal-containing fuel systems.

[Paul Kelly]

I’m based in the United Kingdom and I use Marine 16 treatment which you can find here: https://www.marine16.co.uk/

I don’t know if it’s available in the USA. But it’s used by our National Lifeboat service – or so the bottle says. It needs 3-5ml per 25 litres of fuel which is a very small amount. You really need to get a syringe with it so you don’t over treat. 100ml will treat 2,000 litres of fuel.

I have no idea whether it’s more effective than other systems (and there are many). But if it’s good enough for the Lifeboats, it’s good enough for me!

The blurb also says "The Marine 16 diesel bug treatment disperses into both the water and fuel phases in your tank and will remain sufficiently active for over a year at both high and low temperatures."

[j.g.evans]

I was told by the importer of Yanmar engines to not use Biobore(sp?); but, to use FPPF. Biobore kills bacteria that forms at a water fuel boundary. The kill falls to the bottom of your tank and will eventually get stirred up and plug your fuel intake. The FPPF emulsifies the water and it is burned. With no water to live on there is no bacteria. I have used only FPPF (1/2 oz per 5 gal) for 30 years. I have inspected the bottom of my tanks on several boats and found them clean.