Need A Diesel Mechanic !!

[GRIT]

If the engine was overly hot, yes the heat exchanger could be responsible for that.

The first thing I'd do, if you can't find a pump, is to install an electric pump. You could build a plate, as suggested by a previous poster, but I'd just disconnect the fuel lines and bypass the pump, and leave it in place. If it's not leaking oil now, it won't later either.

To bypass the pump, check to see if there's any easy place to splice in a new line, to replace the old one. The best place would be somewhere where you find a rubber line you can replace (after the lift pump). If there's a rubber hose going into the injection pump, that would be the best thing to remove, and replace with your new hose. If you can't find a rubber hose to replace, you can just cut the steel one (dremel or pipe cutter, not anything that pinches), and be sure you can slip a hose over it about 2 inches. Remove any paint from the steel pipe. When you install the new hose, install it 3 inches over the pipe, and triple clamp it. You triple clamp it because there's no nipple on the end of the steel pipe, and because I don't know your skill level. Tighten the clamps well, but not so much that you deform the clamp. Be sure there isn't any tension on your new hose; it should hang just a little so you know nothing's pulling on it.

Your new hose should go from the primary fuel filter (the big one, not the one on the engine) directly to the injection pump. I'd bypass the filter on the engine, it's not doing you any favours anyway. As I recall, the engine mounted filter is not much bigger than a thimble. If it's a reasonable sized filter, then you could leave it on, there's no harm either way. Just connect your new fuel line to the inlet of the filter, instead of the injection pump. This assumes the filter is located after the lift pump.

I prefer to install an electric fuel pump before the primary fuel filter, but you can install it after the filter if it's easier. The down side is you can't bleed the filter with your new pump.

The easiest method for your situation would be to:

1. buy an electric fuel pump (less than 5psi), with inlet and outlet of the same size as the fuel line coming out of your primary filter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JPDZC4M...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

2. check the fuel line size you have now (coming out of the filter, and going into the injection pump) You can get adapters at home depot. Brass 1/4npt fittings to adjust the hose size from 1/8 to 1/2",

3. buy suitable diesel fuel line of the right size. Get more than you need, it's not expensive.

4. install fuel line on both sides of your pump, of lengths enough to easily get to the filter and the injection pump, from where you want to install the pump.

5. Install wires on the pump, with plenty of wire to reach the back of your engine panel. More is better than less.

6. remove old fuel lines from injection pump and primary fuel filter outlet, and replace with the lines on the electric pump (leave the injection pump line off for now). Cut the new lines so they're slightly longer than you think you need, say 6 inches.

7. Wire the negative power wire to the pump to a bolt on the engine block or head.

8. Wire the positive wire to the back of your key switch, or to a manual switch wired to the battery (with a 5amp fuse). If wired to the key, just find a wire that's energized when the key is "on" and de-energized when the key is "off". Just about any wire will do for a fuel pump, they take little energy. I have run one from an instrument backlight in a pinch, but I'd suggest you do it properly, so you don't have to troubleshoot a blown back light circuit someday in the future.

9. Put a container under the fuel line, a Soda bottle works well for this, where it goes into the injection pump (but is not yet attached) turn on the pump (with switch, or key) and wait for fuel to come out the end of the hose. When that happens, shut off the pump, and connect the hose to the injection pump.

10. tidy everything up, attach loose lines, and hoses, to the bulkheads. Shorten any that are unruly.

11. Go sailing, and pat yourself on the back.

I'm a little busy at the moment, so I haven't really gone over this post. It should get you through the project ok, but let me know if you have trouble.

If it were me; I'd definitely bypass the old pump, and the engine mounted filter.

These instructions are how mechanics would do a repair for themselves. It's quick, but it's not what you'd show a client. For a client, it would be nice and neat, and the old pump would be removed and replaced with a blank. The engine filter might be re-used, but if it's in a bad spot, it would be by-passed. The pump linked above uses less than 2 amps. I'd get an inline fuse of 2 to 5 amps, and attach it between the new wire you supply, and the wire on the pump. (ABYC says within 7 inches of the supply, but you'll be fine at the pump if you're coming from the panel. If you're coming from the battery, or an unfused wire, put it at the battery end.) Get any diesel pump you like, just keep the pressure down. You want constant positive pressure to the injection pump. I don't know yanmar's specs, but typically, you don't need much. There is another pump that puts out up to 7psi, which would also work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/CarBole-Elect...NrPXRydWU&th=1

Either pump should work fine.

That's how I'd do it. No warranty expressed or implied.

Cheers.
Paul.

[GRIT]

PS. If the oil smells of diesel, given what you've said about how the engine starts and runs, it's likely the lift pump. .
I meant to say that at the start of the previous post.

Get your engine running properly first, then see if it's overheating. A cheap laser thermometer will tell the tale. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-I...sr=1-3-catcorr

Check the side of the head, just below, or just above, the exhaust manifold. It should be less than 205F, or 96C. Don't check the manifold itself, it's water cooled, so it'll show colder than the actual engine temps.

If it's hotter than that, let us know.

Please let us know about the oil level. If it wasn't high, then you need to find out what caused the banging. If it was high, it could have been that. You should also check your coolant level. Take a photo so you can compare to later, so you know if it's going down. Coolant won't typically leak into the cylinder while the engine's running, (at least not enough to make it knock) unless the head gasket is totally blown. Keep in mind, I'm not there to hear and see what's happening, but your engine seems to run too good for that to be likely.

Cheers.
Paul.

[Tortuga331]

Paul,
I am overwhelmed with the support you are providing. I wish I had the skills to do all the mentioned bypass etc.

I have one person who may have a Yanmar lift pump. I will print all you wrote because it is very valuable information. I may as well clean the injectors while I'm in there.( If it helps at all).
I won't go to my boat until I get the part. When I do go, I will measure everything I take out to get an idea how much diesel was in with the oil.
Problem is , I'm trying to do all this and work as well.

I really hope this will be it. I will keep you all posted.
I could write a story on this entire ordeal! No one would believe it!

take care and thanks once more for all the others thoughts and Paul as well.

Bill
Tortuga

[Dave Lochner]

Originally Posted by Tortuga331

Paul,
I am overwhelmed with the support you are providing. I wish I had the skills to do all the mentioned bypass etc.

I have one person who may have a Yanmar lift pump. I will print all you wrote because it is very valuable information. I may as well clean the injectors while I'm in there.( If it helps at all).
I won't go to my boat until I get the part. When I do go, I will measure everything I take out to get an idea how much diesel was in with the oil.
Problem is , I'm trying to do all this and work as well.

I really hope this will be it. I will keep you all posted.
I could write a story on this entire ordeal! No one would believe it!

take care and thanks once more for all the others thoughts and Paul as well.

Bill
Tortuga

The lift pump should be easy to find. I've used Niemiec Marine for parts, they have good service and are well stocked. If they don't have it on their shelf they get it from the distributor Mack-Boring overnight and ship it out the day they receive it. Prices were better than other sources I've checked on various Yanmar parts including a lift pump for my 3JH2e.

https://niemiecmarine.com

[GRIT]

You're welcome. It's no trouble.

You have the skills, if you have the time.

Though the lift pump is the most likely culprit, it would be a good idea, if you have a ready source for a pump, to remove the pump and check the diaphragm before assuming it's the problem. I'm guessing they're not cheap.

I assume the injectors are fine, because of the test you did at the dock, and reported no smoke. It starts well, and doesn't smoke under load. Don't bother to clean them. With injectors, you're usually better to leave well enough alone, unless there's a problem.

I believe the injection pump on that engine is mounted in a cavity in the engine block itself. It's a possibility that it's leaking somewhere, but I don't have the breakdown for that pump. I doubt it's the issue, since it's an inline pump, and the engine seems to work so well. I doubt it would leak enough to create a problem in the oil pan, but I'm not familiar with how the injection pump manifold is set up. I'm pretty sure the only way to get fuel in the oil, with that pump, is to get by the individual injectors. The engine seems to run far too well for that to be the issue. Plus, diaphragms are a "known" wear point, and that's in the lift pump.

Lastly is the lift pump, which, as I said, is the most likely culprit. But, if it's expensive, I'd suggest disassembling the old one to be sure it's the problem. Though, even a $200 pump would likely be cheaper than paying a mechanic to come to the boat.

OK, forget what I just said about the pump. They seem to be cheap.

I'll leave this post up, just so folks can see the logic of the lift pump being the problem, but I just found out Amazon has them for $30, so you might as well get one and give it a shot. https://www.amazon.com/Solarhome-121...21678241&psc=1

Shipped by Amazon, means a great return policy. Give it a shot.

The genuine article seems to sell for about $150 USD, from various sources.

Cheers.
Paul.

[boatpoker]

It is impossible for algae, black or any other colour to exist in a diesel fuel system.
Algae requires photosynthesis to exist and that cannot be achieved in a fuel system.
Many other types of bacteria can and do exist quite happily at water/diesel interface if there is water in the tank ... but not algae.

[Dave Lochner]

Originally Posted by GRIT

You're welcome. It's no trouble.

You have the skills, if you have the time.

Though the lift pump is the most likely culprit, it would be a good idea, if you have a ready source for a pump, to remove the pump and check the diaphragm before assuming it's the problem. I'm guessing they're not cheap.

I assume the injectors are fine, because of the test you did at the dock, and reported no smoke. It starts well, and doesn't smoke under load. Don't bother to clean them. With injectors, you're usually better to leave well enough alone, unless there's a problem.

I believe the injection pump on that engine is mounted in a cavity in the engine block itself. It's a possibility that it's leaking somewhere, but I don't have the breakdown for that pump. I doubt it's the issue, since it's an inline pump, and the engine seems to work so well. I doubt it would leak enough to create a problem in the oil pan, but I'm not familiar with how the injection pump manifold is set up. I'm pretty sure the only way to get fuel in the oil, with that pump, is to get by the individual injectors. The engine seems to run far too well for that to be the issue. Plus, diaphragms are a "known" wear point, and that's in the lift pump.

Lastly is the lift pump, which, as I said, is the most likely culprit. But, if it's expensive, I'd suggest disassembling the old one to be sure it's the problem. Though, even a $200 pump would likely be cheaper than paying a mechanic to come to the boat.

OK, forget what I just said about the pump. They seem to be cheap.

I'll leave this post up, just so folks can see the logic of the lift pump being the problem, but I just found out Amazon has them for $30, so you might as well get one and give it a shot. https://www.amazon.com/Solarhome-121...21678241&psc=1

Shipped by Amazon, means a great return policy. Give it a shot.

The genuine article seems to sell for about $150 USD, from various sources.

Cheers.
Paul.

Check Niemiec Marine before ordering from Amazon. Niemiec will sell you a Yanmar pump not a pump from an unknown supplier. A couple of guys in my marina had to replace the lift pumps on their Yammers and the price from Niemiec was close to the Yanmar price.

[Tortuga331]

Originally Posted by GRIT

You're welcome. It's no trouble.

You have the skills, if you have the time.

Though the lift pump is the most likely culprit, it would be a good idea, if you have a ready source for a pump, to remove the pump and check the diaphragm before assuming it's the problem. I'm guessing they're not cheap.

I assume the injectors are fine, because of the test you did at the dock, and reported no smoke. It starts well, and doesn't smoke under load. Don't bother to clean them. With injectors, you're usually better to leave well enough alone, unless there's a problem.

I believe the injection pump on that engine is mounted in a cavity in the engine block itself. It's a possibility that it's leaking somewhere, but I don't have the breakdown for that pump. I doubt it's the issue, since it's an inline pump, and the engine seems to work so well. I doubt it would leak enough to create a problem in the oil pan, but I'm not familiar with how the injection pump manifold is set up. I'm pretty sure the only way to get fuel in the oil, with that pump, is to get by the individual injectors. The engine seems to run far too well for that to be the issue. Plus, diaphragms are a "known" wear point, and that's in the lift pump.

Lastly is the lift pump, which, as I said, is the most likely culprit. But, if it's expensive, I'd suggest disassembling the old one to be sure it's the problem. Though, even a $200 pump would likely be cheaper than paying a mechanic to come to the boat.

OK, forget what I just said about the pump. They seem to be cheap.

I'll leave this post up, just so folks can see the logic of the lift pump being the problem, but I just found out Amazon has them for $30, so you might as well get one and give it a shot. https://www.amazon.com/Solarhome-121...21678241&psc=1

Shipped by Amazon, means a great return policy. Give it a shot.

The genuine article seems to sell for about $150 USD, from various sources.

Cheers.
Paul.

`

I was tempted to go to amazon for a pump. After reading the reviews that stated the part failed after 4 months and something about the threads not lining up ,I abandoned that idea. I did find one YANMAR pump in stock with diselpartsdirect.com for $120.00 plus 15 for shipping.
I forgot to see if it comes with the gasket!
So with a little skill and a lot of luck I will get it done this weekend.

Do you think I should try to do a compression test on the motor ?
I do not even know how to do that. Also is the heat exchanger easy to replace?
Just trying to check everything .
The white smoke is a puzzler.
Does anyone think I should see if it starts and runs first OR change the oil first then see if it runs?

Thanks ALL,
Bill
Tortuga

"THE TORTUGA SAGA" continues

[Tortuga331]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

It is impossible for algae, black or any other colour to exist in a diesel fuel system.
Algae requires photosynthesis to exist and that cannot be achieved in a fuel system.
Many other types of bacteria can and do exist quite happily at water/diesel interface if there is water in the tank ... but not algae.

You are right! Thanks!

What causes black algae in diesel fuel?
For decades, it has been a common misconception that the dark sludge forming in your fuel tank is actually “algae”. As a result, many still refer to it as such today. In reality, what you are actually witnessing is an over-proliferation of microbes in the fuel.Aug 4, 2021

[GRIT]

Originally Posted by Tortuga331

`

I was tempted to go to amazon for a pump. After reading the reviews that stated the part failed after 4 months and something about the threads not lining up ,I abandoned that idea. I did find one YANMAR pump in stock with diselpartsdirect.com for $120.00 plus 15 for shipping.
I forgot to see if it comes with the gasket!
So with a little skill and a lot of luck I will get it done this weekend.

Do you think I should try to do a compression test on the motor ?
I do not even know how to do that. Also is the heat exchanger easy to replace?
Just trying to check everything .
The white smoke is a puzzler.
Does anyone think I should see if it starts and runs first OR change the oil first then see if it runs?

Thanks ALL,
Bill
Tortuga

"THE TORTUGA SAGA" continues

I would NOT do a compression test on an engine that starts right up, and runs under load without smoking. If it ain't broke... as the saying goes.

If there's contaminant in the oil, change it. You had knocking, which may have been from the pistons sucking fuel up by the rings (someone mentioned this earlier in the thread). Check the level in the oilpan, and it'll be easier to tell you how likely it is that fuel in the oil might be the cause.

If you eliminate possibilities systematically, you'll not have to do more than is necessary. If you decide to do a bunch of stuff all at the same time, you may fix it, or not.

If the engine sucked fuel by the rings, it would run much hotter than normal, so that may explain any extra heat. It doesn't explain the white smoke, but I'd need a much better explanation as to when you saw the smoke, engine temp, and rpm. Was it perhaps steam from the exhaust being hotter than normal, because of fuel coming by the rings? If it's steam, then it's not an issue. It might have been a colder day than before, and the engine may have been running hotter than before, and caused excess evaporate to exit the exhaust, in the form of steam.

OEM parts are nearly always a better fit, and better quality than what comes out of Amazon. But in a pinch, and since you said you couldn't get an OEM pump in a reasonable amount of time, then I'd go to Amazon and try it out.

Cheers, and good luck.
Paul.

[Tortuga331]

Lift pump arrives on Friday late , so, Saturday I will go and remove and change the oil. Then install the lift pump.

Question: DO I need to change the oil filter again?

It is possible it was steam, I assumed it was smoke .

[GRIT]

Originally Posted by Tortuga331

Lift pump arrives on Friday late , so, Saturday I will go and remove and change the oil. Then install the lift pump.

Question: DO I need to change the oil filter again?

It is possible it was steam, I assumed it was smoke .

No, that gets expensive quick.

Remove the filter from the engine, empty it, then fill it with oil, and put it back on.

Without seeing it myself, I can't comment one way or the other.

I suggest you get the engine running properly first.

Once it's "fixed", check the oil before every time you run the engine, and monitor the level. You don't want this issue sneaking up on you again. You should also monitor the coolant level, as a precaution, in case you've got issues there too, you'll be a step ahead of the game.

Once you're familiar with the levels, and the engine proves itself to be "fixed", you'll know what to expect, and you can check the oil less frequently.

Cheers.
Paul.

[Wolfe10]

Originally Posted by Tortuga331

Question: DO I need to change the oil filter again?

With your history of water/coolant in the crankcase and the cost of an engine vs cost of oil filter, absolutely replace the oil filter when you change oil.

[Tortuga331]

Originally Posted by Wolfe10

With your history of water/coolant in the crankcase and the cost of an engine vs cost of oil filter, absolutely replace the oil filter when you change oil.

I have already changed the oil 3x and this will be 4 since last fall end of season.
If I take it off and empty it and fill with oil, I don't see the harm, BUT, I'm not a mechanic either.

Thanks,
Bill
Tortuga

[OneBoatman]

True that black algae, or for that matter a true algae can not grow without sunlight. That doesn't change your need to keep the bacteria and fungus' many call black algae from growing in your diesel fuel as it can bite you if you don't use a biocide. So fuel starvation is not the problem but no one has acutally told you why raw diesel is finding its way into the crankcase. What do the folks at Yanmar technical support have to say? Do they agree that rebuilding or replacing the lift pump is your next move and do they have the parts to send you?