Long term storage of 1GM10

[nial]

I have to lay up my boat for several years and am wondering if I should remove the injector and store it in a container of diesel or kerosene? I have put a little motor oil in the air intake and turn the engine over by hand every few months. Naturally I've drained the cooling water and filled the crankcase with fresh oil but if I removed the injector I could plug the hole with a cork and squirt some oil in there every few months and turn over the engine a few times but is all this really necessary?

[a64pilot]

Ideal is to fog the intake and cylinder and seal both intake and exhaust and the crankcase vent, I believe if possible run 10w oil in through the fuel control to preserve it, I'd leave the injector in.
There is a special preservative oil, but don't think it's needed.
Once sealed all up, I wouldn't touch it again, this is the way aircraft engines are done for long term storage, only difference is there is a container of desiccant that replaces the spark plug, of course not applicable in a Diesel.
Some will tell you to fill it slam full of oil, and that couldn't hurt, just be darn sure to pull the injector and turn it over after the oil has been drained to correct level, oil may have gotten into the cylinder if you fill the crankcase and could hydraulic lock the engine

[GordMay]

See page 63 of the Shop Manual
➥ http://www.sv-zanshin.com/manuals/ya...ualgeneral.pdf

See pages 5 & 6 of the Yanmar Service Bulletin.
➥ http://ldmarineservice.com/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf

[model 10]

Turning the engine over every once and while will scrape off any oil that might be on the cylinder walls. It won't do anything for the bearings and it will also not do the cam and lifters any good either.
If you remove the injector and squirt oil in the cylinder that will make up for turning the engine over and scraping all the oil off but it would be easier to just fog it, plug it up and forget it.

[Cheechako]

I would just spray a lot of oil in the injector holes/cylinders, turn the engine by hand a bit and spray again. reinstall the injectors and fill the crankcase. Then leave it alone. Remove the water pump">Raw water pump impellor. or replace it when you recommission... you could do as you say with the injector... but havily fogged it should be ok in the engine...

[brantleychuck]

Get some calibration fluid. It is what injector rebuilders use when testing injectors. It also preserves them while on the shelf. Disconnect your fuel line to the engine and run the engine for ten minutes on the calibration fluid. This will preserve the very expensive fuel injection pump from corrosion. Change the primary engine filter if you have one before doing this.
Change your engine oil so you have fresh oil in the crankcase. Pull water pump impeller. With raw water disconnected start and run engine for 30 seconds,, rev it up a couple of times to blow all raw water out of system. Shut down. Pull exhaust hose off riser and plug riser with a rag. Pull glow plug and fill cylinders with engine oil. All that oil will be in the crankcase when you return but double check before cranking engine with starter so no hydraulic lock damage will be done.
Before you do all the above, if you can feed the raw water system with fresh water to flush out all the salt water that would be a plus. Make a pre start up list with everything that needs to be done / put back together before starting and attach to start key.
Cheers, Chuck


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