Long Term Layup of Yanmar – more than $1000?

[Nemos]

We recently completed a coast-to-coast trip through the Panama Canal and want to put our Frers 435 on the hard for 12 months. We enquired with the nearest Yanmar Dealer as to putting our new engine into long-term storage. We were surprised to get an estimate of more than $1000 to perform Yanmar’s recommended protocol. I have summarized the protocol below.

Has anyone had experience laying up a Yanmar for long-term storage? Any recommendations? Is all of this needed for a 12 month lay-up?

Thanks in advance for any help.


Long term storage - Yanmar Diesels

1) Thoroughly cleaning the engine.

2) Running the engine for a certain time using special:
a) Preservative fuel: mixed with Lubrizol 560H or the equivalent
b) Oil: Suitable preservative oil can be supplied by most petroleum companies – E.g. Dinitrol 40 or the equivalent.
c) Coolant: Drain and flush the cooling system. Top up with preservative coolant containing 50% glycol by volume. Glycol without nitrite-based inhibitor should be used. For example BASF G48 or BASF D542.

3) Filter changes:
a) Renew the fuel filter.
b) Air cleaner: Clean or change the filter element.

4) Lubrication: Remove the rocker covers and lubricate the valve mechanisms and PDE mechanisms with preservative oil with preservative oil. Refit the rocker covers.

5) Cover air intakes and exhaust pipes.

6) Alternator and starter motor: - Spray with water-repellent anti-corrosive oil, CRC 226, LPS1 or the equivalent.

7) Spray the outside of bright engine parts, first with penetrating preservative oil such as Dinitrol 25B and then with Dinitrol 112 or the equivalent.

[bstreep]

Do it your self?

[S/V Illusion]

or
replace oil/filter
top up or empty fuel tank

spray with a $15 can of rust preventive anti-corrosion mix


send Yanmar dealer a card next year to enlighten them

[gjordan]

Most of what is listed should be done before the boat is hauled, since you need to run the engine after changing out the oil and adding preservative to the fuel. Changing to preservative oil is no different than any other oil change, and removing the valve cover to put the preservative oil on the rockers after the engine is run and the new oil is circulated, seems to be pure profit. You probably should put the fuel preservative in and then fill your tanks (to mix it) and then run the engine for an hour or so to make sure the preservative actually gets into the whole system. Change tanks during the run so that all lines get the treatment. An engine running at idle will hardly use the amount of fuel in an hour, that the filters and lines contain. I am surprised that the dealer didnt want to remove the raw water impellor for another thousand. Even if you dont want to do the work yourself, you should have most of it done before the haul ,Good Luck, and look out for the Pirates, even if they are in monogramed coveralls.____Grant.

[djmarchand]

Yanmar's recommendations for 12 mo storage is pure BS.

Change the oil and top up the diesel tank. Winterize if in a cold climate.

When it is time to start up, pull the impeller and put a little non petroleum grease on it like Lanocote. This will keep the blades from shearing off due to drying out. Crank the engine with the fuel stop closed for 5 seconds or so until you get oil pressure. Then open the fuel stop and start her up.

David

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by djmarchand

Yanmar's recommendations for 12 mo storage is pure BS.

Change the oil and top up the diesel tank. Winterize if in a cold climate.

When it is time to start up, pull the impeller and put a little non petroleum grease on it like Lanocote. This will keep the blades from shearing off due to drying out. Crank the engine with the fuel stop closed for 5 seconds or so until you get oil pressure. Then open the fuel stop and start her up.

David

That sounds about right to me... when through, send the thousand to Mr Marchand who will likely find a better use for it than the piratical Yanmar dealer.

Cheers,

Jim

[gjordan]

Nemo, pull the impeller before you leave the boat so it doesnt spend a year with 1/3 of its blades bent. Rub it with armorall and put in a ziplock for safe keeping. Put a new one in next year and have the old one as a spare.____Grant.

[leftbrainstuff]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

That sounds about right to me... when through, send the thousand to Mr Marchand who will likely find a better use for it than the piratical Yanmar dealer.

Cheers,

Jim

+1 for djmarxhand and jim cate

What you need to ensure during long term storage is clean oil, fuel and coolant.

Get some lube (aka a squirt of diesel) in each cylinder and spin the engine over with the injectors out to coat the rings, bore and vave seats. Replace injectors.

Give the inlet and exhaust a spray inside with WD-40 (which is very similar to diesel.) Seal them up and spray the lot with WD40. Top off the tanks with biocide and your done.

[delmarrey]

Here's what the Yanmar manual says about storage.

Quote:
If the engine will not be used for an extended
period of time, special measures should be
taken to protect the cooling system, fuel
system and combustion chamber from
corrosion and the exterior from rusting.
The engine can normally stand idle for up to
6 months. If it remains unused for longer
than this, please contact your authorized
Yanmar Marine dealer or distributor. HUH?

In cold temperatures or before long-term
storage, be sure to drain the seawater from
the cooling system.
WARNING! NEVER remove the coolant
filler cap if the engine is hot. Steam and
hot engine coolant will spray out and
seriously burn you. Allow the engine to
cool down before you attempt to remove
the cap. DUH!

CAUTION! DO NOT drain the coolant
system. A full coolant system will
prevent corrosion and frost damage.
CAUTION! If seawater is left inside of the
engine, it may freeze and damage parts
of the cooling system when the ambient
temperature is below 0°C (32°F).

PREPARE ENGINE FOR
LONG-TERM STORAGE
Note: If the engine is close to a periodic
maintenance interval, perform those
maintenance procedures before putting the
engine into long-term storage.
1. Wipe off any dust or oil from the outside
of engine.
2. Drain water from fuel filters.
3. Drain fuel tank completely or fill the tank
to prevent condensation. (Small portable tanks)
4. Grease the exposed areas and joints of
the remote control cables and the
bearings of the remote control handle.
5. Seal the intake silencer, exhaust pipe,
etc. to prevent moisture or
contamination from entering engine.
6. Completely drain bilge in hull bottom. N/A
7. Waterproof the engine room to prevent
rain or seawater from entering. N/A
8. Charge the battery once a month to
compensate for battery’s selfdischarge. N/A
9. Remove key from key switch and cover
the key switch with moisture cap. N/A

Note: The drain cocks are opened before
shipping from the factory. Marine gear
ZF25A does not have a drain cock on the
clutch cooler.
NOTICE: If seawater is left inside, it may
freeze and damage parts of the cooling
system (heat exchanger, seawater
pump, etc.) when ambient temperature
is below 32°F (0°C).
1. Open the seawater drain cock on the
clutch cooler (if equipped). Allow to
drain. Open the seawater drain cock on
the intercooler (4JH4-HTE only) and
drain. If no water drains, use a stiff
brush to remove any debris.
2. Remove four bolts attaching the side
cover of the seawater pump. Remove
the cover and drain the seawater.
3. Install cover and tighten bolts.
4. Close all the drain cocks.

RETURNING THE ENGINE
TO SERVICE
1. Replace the oil and the oil filter before
running the engine.
2. Supply fuel if the fuel in the fuel tank was
removed, and prime the fuel system.
3. Confirm that there is engine coolant in
the engine.
4. Operate the engine at idle speed for 1
minute.
5. Check fluid levels and check engine for
leaks. /Quote


For my winterizing procedure I remove the impeller from the raw water pump.
I've also heard that one should remove the injectors and squirt motor oil in and crank over a few turns. But I would think leaving the exhaust hose off and cranking the motor over every 3-6 months should be OK.

[gjordan]

The reason for changing to a preservative oil is to coat the whole inside of the engine with this differant type of oil which negates the need and expense of pulling injectors, removing valve covers etc. The oil gives off a vapor that keeps the non running engine from corroding. You cant reach cam lobes and timing gears with a can of WD40. I agree that this is not needed for shorter layups, but an oil change BEFORE LAYUP should always be done so that the acids that form in used motor oil dont have time to do damage during storage. It is better to error on the safe side since many boats that get put on the hard end up staying longer than originally planned. Another 2 cents worth,_____Grant.

[jeremiason]

Nemos

You didn't say where you are laying your boat up... San Diego and Maine are to different animals... Both for how you you prepare the engine and what you pay someone to do it

In San Francisco, a mechanics will charge $250-400 for a seasonal service on boat engines, so $1000 for what you describe dosen't sound bad from that perspective.

I guess the bottom line is what you feel comfortable with... You will be the one coming back to your engine after the year is up... If it froze while you were gone, you will also be the one purchasing a new engine....

Also if your Yanmar is still under warranty, doing what they suggest is highly recommended, since if you don't, it will be the first thing they point to as causing any failure.

[Nemos]

Thanks to everyone for the great advice – which we will definitely follow. I’m surprised Yanmar didn’t think of the impeller blades.

It turns out that the Lubrizol additive isn’t even available…Has anyone had any experience with Starbrite “EZ to Store EZ to Start Diesel Storage Additive”? We have had a good experience with Starbrite products and this one claims to negate any need to fog the inside of the engine directly through the injector ports…

Nemos

[gjordan]

Nemos, Shell Oil makes an aviation version of the preservation oil, so they probably have a diesel version. Call all the major oil distributors and Im sure you will find it. You wont find it at the local auto parts or marine store. Even aviation outlets dont keep it in stock. In the fuel system, the main cause of growth is water in the tanks or lines. If there is any way to drain your tank sumps (probably not) to get any water out, it would be a good idea. If like most tanks that dont have a sump drain you might see if you can run a tube down to the deepest point in the tank and pump out a quart or two. Put the fuel into a clear container and see if any water seperates out. Some cruisers do this a few times a year , since you never really know what comes from the fuel dock or jerry jugs. Good Luck with it all._____Grant.