Leak at the injector line nuts

[fuentes]

Originally Posted by sailon46

In the bind you are the only thing you can do is take the nut back out and then get if you have it JB weld clean the nut in side and dry so no diesel left on it also the injector thread wipe it with paper towels if you have them out there till you get no residue on the paper then apply a thin coat of the JB weld, its two parts so you mix it and work fast, in the inside of the nut careful not to have too much or you will toast your injector. Finger tighten it and tighten gently not to mess it up again and let it cure more than 24 hours. Start the diesel and keep your fingers crossed, it should work. This has worked for me in the middle of the Pacific . Good luck
Ernie on the Mary Jane

I agree and would use JB weld as stated. I would smear very little on the base where it seats. Do the finger tighten. I fixed a leak on the head of a Perkings engine on a Ferguson tractor that kept blowing the head gasket 13 years ago. It was one of those "temporary" repairs. If it leaks after 24 hrs. Try a very gentle tighten and perhaps it will seat. I hope it is a seating problem and not a crack.

[Elie]

If only the tubing is affected, removing the said tube, and go see a jewler( they are everywhere in Nassau, Newport, Marsh Harbour and .elsewhere I presume) is a good way to address this snaffu. They are equiped to make very fine and strong silver welds(laser equipment I was told) . I once broke my glasses, and the occulist could not do anything except replace everything. I had my glasses frame repairedby a local jewler, and was amazed to see how precise the micro brazing was done. Without touching nylon wire lenses...

[Lake-Effect]

This has been a very interesting thread. Hey Captain Jo - please update us with photos, and what solution you went with.

[Harlequin]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Most likely the soft copper washer. They should be replaced every time you touch them.
If you've cracked something thats a different story.

This sounds right to me. Check/replace the soft copper washer.

We had a similar problem on our previous yacht, in a remote area of the Philippines. The copper washer looked OK, but we couldn't get a seal - work hardening?

We didn't have a spare (we carry some now) and no other washers worked (too hard) so we fashioned a couple of washers from a Coke can and that worked until we could replace with a fresh copper washer later.

We drilled the correct size hole in the can, then cut out the 'washer' around it with nail scissors, eh voila!

Hope this helps...

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by Harlequin

This sounds right to me. Check/replace the soft copper washer.

We had a similar problem on our previous yacht, in a remote area of the Philippines. The copper washer looked OK, but we couldn't get a seal - work hardening?

We didn't have a spare (we carry some now) and no other washers worked (too hard) so we fashioned a couple of washers from a Coke can and that worked until we could replace with a fresh copper washer later.

We drilled the correct size hole in the can, then cut out the 'washer' around it with nail scissors, eh voila!

Hope this helps...

Smart thinkin'. I'll have to add a Coke can to my box of duct tape and paperclips

[Captain jo]

Wow
Thanks everybody for all your post
Lots of interesting solutions.

Where going thru a nasty cold front here in george town and it's pouring rain
So working in the engine room wich is located under the cockpit floor won't happen today (some boat are also dragging around me so better have a leaking injector than risking air in the fuel systeme)

Some info that might be pertinent: its a perkins 4-108 so there are no cooper washer its just a flaired pipe .

I'll investigate further tomorrow morning and keep you posted.

Thanks again all

Capt Jo

[Cheechako]

Ahh, good to know. visually inspect the flare and the matching end of the injector. If your threads aren't stripped you should be able to sort it out. Look for a crease, or pit etc. As well as a crack! Make sure the tube sits direct in line with the injector as you tighten it... not angled . Keep everything very clean. If someone in the past has reflared the tube a bit, the OD can get large enough to interfere with the inside of the nut. If it does you will have to file some material off the perimeter... plug the tube if doing so to keep grit out.
I always carried a flaring tool in my boat as much of the fuel lines were flared copper. Cheap and nice to have.

[ur2slo]

Originally Posted by boatbod

Proper solution is to replace the line.

Half-baked emergency solutions depend on what's causing the leak. If there is no crack, then simply annealing the flare end may be sufficient to get it to seal. If there is a crack (probable) then you either attempt to braze it (difficult) or maybe you can wrap enough oil absorbers around that you continue on somewhere to make a proper repair knowing that it's going to leak a bit along the way.

I need to chime in, half baked forum answers depend on the writer.

He knows , he cant.

Annealing? wtf? ya talkkin bout rastis? Only thing that will do is expand the crack and if it in the seat at the ferrule it will prolly leak worse.

WRAP a rag around it? Have you any experience in actually doing that?

You don't need to answer, because I know the answer.

that's most asinine thing to do, wrap a rag around it.


We are all here to attempt to help, but I also think helping is pointing out dangerous and unsafe recommendations..........

If I'm wrong I will accept such.

my 2 cents.......with that you can get...............well, 2 cents

Question Stupidity

[ur2slo]

J/B weld in my experience in actually using it in that type of attempt to repair just such an issue, you will find that it is really brittle when cured and the adhesion to the area is a problem, when attempting to tighten.

I've had em run fine for a bit but it usually breaks lose & the leak is still there.


There is a aircraft fuel sealer that is pliable and impervious to diesel, when I used it, it was called Pro-seal.

Btw, remember ..

ALL really good temporary repairs usually become permanent..har har

I'll be looking forward to the feed back!

[LoudMusic]

Ohhh, leaky nuts. That's trouble.

[Captain jo]

Here Is an update on my leaking nut issue

I took off the pipe to be able to inspect it more thoroughly.
It was cracked at the base of the flare and just by gently manipulating it, it fell off!! So i decide to import the part from a perkins dealer in florida.

And while I wait for the part I'm gone run on three cylinders and use the engine only in emergencies.


Btw i ordered also the three other pipes they're small and light so a good thing to keep on the boat.

I will keep in mind all the solutions you guys proposed.

Thanks everyone!!

Captain Jo

[01kiwijohn]

I'm not so sure that particular failure was caused by over-tightening. Looks more like an alignment failure.
When you install the new ones, make sure that all the lines fit easily onto their respective fittings, you should not have to force/bend them to make them line up. Same goes for any positioning clamps. along the way from the pump to the injectors.
Since you're ordering a set, replace them all. If one was stressed, the others probably will be too. Keep the old ones as spares, then you know they'll fit.
If you run on 3 cylinders, just use a piece of tubing to collect, or return to tank, what is pumped out of the inactive cylinder. There's a lot of pressure, but very little volume.
Good job.

[boatbod]

Work hardening/stress fracture. Either way, not repairable.

[rwidman]

Replacing the part is the best solution.

If that photo had been posted with the original post, it would have helped a great deal.

[a64pilot]

Just rambling here but wonder if. Apiece of copper tube with ferrules would work as a temporary repair, you know something to carry with you for an emergency, copper tube is tougher than you may think