Intake seacock & strainer in 5.5-inch bilge

[oceaneer]

Alii have you tried the globe impellers? They are made out of blue silicone. I used them on a generator that was a impeller eater due to the length of the suction hose and the height of the water injection ring on the exhaust. Worked great.

Oceaneer

[Alii]

Haven't heard of those, Oceaneer. I have 4 Yanmar spare impellers now, which should last at least 2400 hours. If they don't, I'll give the Globe type a try.
Alii

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Alii

I agree, Cadence, the hose run is long. The only bilge compartment deep enough to accommodate the seacock is mid-ship next to the bilge. The hose is threaded aft through 2 other very shallow compartments, takes a right turn behind the engine, then comes up to the condenser.

The set-up has worked for 28 years, provided I use only Yanmar original impellers (the OEM Johnson variety are too soft).

If it worked for that long don't fix what's not broken. Just keep spare impellers on hand.

[Alii]

Ok, here's what I'm about to order (with the up-coming holidays, special order delays and international shipping probably won't receive the parts for a month):

Forespar OEM SmartValve Thru-Hull 1 1/4" to the Forespar T-150 strainer, which will be reduced down for the 1" engine hose. BUT to fit in my 5 1/2" high bilge I will need to mount the T-150 strainer at approximately a 60-degree slope. When the boat is flat I am confident that the entire bowl will be below the top of the outlet port in the T-housing, so no air should be trapped in the bowl. The seacock will be located well under the water line (less than a foot from the side of the keel) and when opened the water flooding in should force out any air bubbles in the bowl.

However, when the boat is heeling to port, the angle of the strainer will probably move to near horizontal -- meaning that any air bubbles that make it through the thru-hull could accumulate in the bowl to the extent it is "tipped" above the top of the outlet port. While this will diminish the amount of contact with the screen in the strainer, I don't see how it should diminish the water flow. And we make it a rule not to run the engine if the boat is heeling over 15 degrees -- recognizing that an emergency situation could trump this rule.

Clearly not optimal, but does this seem like a sane set-up? The Yanmar's water cooling system overall should be tight and powerful when we put it all back together -- rebuilt seawater pump, all new hoses with new t-bolts or AWAB clamps, freshly serviced inline SeaFrost condenser with no calcification to hinder flow. Ya think this should be able to deal with any air bubbles that collect in the strainer? See any other issues with the plan?

[sanibel sailor]

They make a bigger "pancake style" strainer. This one is expensive, but they are also available in plastic I think.

Buck Algonquin 00IWS1215 Intake Water Strainer 1 1 4in | eBay

[The Way]

Originally Posted by sanibel sailor

no. it is basically a closed system, although there ought to be a siphon break before the injection elbow.

now if that strainer lid becomes ajar...

Well, THAT's a good reason to have the strainer above the waterline!

Jack

[Alii]

Thank you for this lead, Sanibel, and as it turns out Buck Algonquin offers the same base casting but with a flat bronze lid, reducing overall height by 2 inches.

But now the issue is how to accommodate the 1" hose to the engine ... The Buch Algonquin strainers are clever in that you can either slip a 1 1/4-1 1/2" ID hose over the ports, or screw an adapter into the threaded ID of those barbs but with significant constriction.

Also interesting is that you can orient these strainers either way 180 degrees -- there is no designated inflow port, doesn't matter.

All this at a price ...

[sanibel sailor]

there is a cheaper plastic one, but the outflow is down. might be close with a low profile lid.

Forespar Marelon MF 810 Raw Water Strainer

[Alii]

This MF810 won't work -- the inlet port is on the bottom so you really need a lot of vertical space.

Key to my project is a Forespar OEM valve that I will need to special order, and Forespar just informed me that they are too swamped, will be taking 2 weeks off, and won't ship what I need until the second week of January. So I guess that gives me time to nail down this Buck Algonquin strainer. So far quotes range from $154 to $437 so there's a disconnect somewhere.

[HopCar]

Alii, What is the model number of the Buck strainer? I'd love to give you a quote.
Here is a link to the Buck webpage showing their flat strainers. It looks like both the 00iws1215DOME and the 00iws150DOME are just less than your 5-1/2" max.

Bronze Intake Water Strainers - Low Profile On Buck Algonquin

The 00iws150DOME is about half the price of the 00iws1215DOME.


I'm not sure of the part number for the ones with the flat bronze top but I think they are more expensive than the plastic dome top by more than a hundred dollars.

[Alii]

Thanks, HopCar, you are right -- the flat top version is expensive, but the standard dome model leaves only 1/16 inch in theory, so if my measurements are at all off ... The solid bronze top version is only 3 3/4 inches tall and will allow me to build a platform in the sloped bilge compartment to mount it solidly and level.

I am looking at the 00isw150. Same housing as the 1250, they just cut off the extra inch on each port which necks down.

I tried to attach Buck's dimensional drawings but they exceed the forum's file size limit. Will try to send by PM.

Alii