Immediate help pls

[jbinbi]

Crossing block Island sound. New boat to me. 29 hp diesel. Not yanmar, blue, can't remember name.

Thin piece of pink plastic tubing at top of vetus valve loop. Continously output water, 1 gal every 5 min.

Have 11 hour trip.

Any help besides me manning a bucket. No spares, etc.

[Malabarista]

Clamp it off with a jubilee clip, an adjustable spanner or similar. Bend it first and clamp the bend. Then reroute it to a drain ( in the cockpit is good if it reaches) then you will always have a visual that your cooling system is running

[jbinbi]

Thanks for the quick reply. It is a Nani engine. I bought this from my brother, he had it for a year, he was told by surveyor it is supposed to always run.

You are saying this too?

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by jbinbi

Thanks for the quick reply. It is a Nani engine. I bought this from my brother, he had it for a year, he was told by surveyor it is supposed to always run.

You are saying this too?

Yes and no.

The small hose is coming from an anti siphon loop. The white fitting at the top either originally contained a one way valve that has been removed or has failed.

The idea is that when the engine is shut off air will be drawn into this fitting breaking a siphon that can form and fill the engine with seawater through the exhaust.

Pinch off the hose while running, then when you’re ready to shut down remove the pincher and shut down the engine. For this trip.

Permanent repair is either as suggested above, or replace the vented loop with a new one that has the check valve intact.

[Malabarista]

Originally Posted by jbinbi

Thanks for the quick reply. It is a Nani engine. I bought this from my brother, he had it for a year, he was told by surveyor it is supposed to always run.

You are saying this too?

Yes i have a yanmar but the anti syphon loop is the same. It makes no difference to the engine whether it is squirting or not.
As wisely said above remove the clamp when shutting down the engine to remove any chance of it syphoning back into your engine. When it is open ended ie now, it will break any syphon ( sifon?)

[Rumrace]

They can be cleaned and last for ever

[boris]

I would put a one way valve on it

[JPA Cate]

On our first Insatiable, Jim ran an anti-syphon hose (6mm or 1/4" tygon) from a high point in the water to the exhaust mixer elbow out through the side of the cockpit and underneath the cockpit grating. Worked fine, and you could hear it suck when the engine was turned off, so you knew for sure, each and every time, that there would be no backfilling. No valves to fill up and stick.

Ann

[ItDepends]

Wow.... the internet never ceases to amaze me with BAD advice...

That thin piece of tubing is doing EXACTLY as it is designed to do. It is running water out of an anti-syphon loop, and makes sure that air can get back in when you shut the engine down.

DO NOT clamp it off! Your anti syphon loop will stop working and you risk filling your engine with water!

DO NOT put a one way valve in! The whole POINT of this arrangement is to eliminate the one way valve that can clog and otherwise cause mischief.

This is THE BEST way to run an antisyphon loop. It has no tiny little check valve to clog. You can route the overflow water to a place where it is easy to see and be sure that cooling water is flowing, and that your antisyphon is clear.

The industry standard antisyphon loop from Jabsco is a terrible joke. It has this TINY little rubber check valve in it that most owners do not even know is there. It fails in one of two ways: It gets a piece of debris in it, and sticks open and salt water sprays all over your engine room, or it clogs with salt crud and doesn't allow air in to break the syphon and you ruin your engine. AND this tiny little pice of rubber costs $10 to replace, if you ever think of it.

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by ItDepends

Wow.... the internet never ceases to amaze me with BAD advice...

That thin piece of tubing is doing EXACTLY as it is designed to do. It is running water out of an anti-syphon loop, and makes sure that air can get back in when you shut the engine down.

DO NOT clamp it off! Your anti syphon loop will stop working and you risk filling your engine with water!

DO NOT put a one way valve in! The whole POINT of this arrangement is to eliminate the one way valve that can clog and otherwise cause mischief.

This is THE BEST way to run an antisyphon loop. It has no tiny little check valve to clog. You can route the overflow water to a place where it is easy to see and be sure that cooling water is flowing, and that your antisyphon is clear.

The industry standard antisyphon loop from Jabsco is a terrible joke. It has this TINY little rubber check valve in it that most owners do not even know is there. It fails in one of two ways: It gets a piece of debris in it, and sticks open and salt water sprays all over your engine room, or it clogs with salt crud and doesn't allow air in to break the syphon and you ruin your engine. AND this tiny little pice of rubber costs $10 to replace, if you ever think of it.

The way the current anti siphon vent is installed is awful. It’s pumping water INTO the boat.

Read and comprehend all of the words in the previous posts before you call them all BAD advice.

[Jim Cate]

The way the current anti siphon vent is installed is awful. It’s pumping water INTO the boat.

.

Yep, that's awful... but I bet they sell hose somewhere near the OP's location, and simply extending the current setup to the cockpit and one of its drains cures the "into the boat" problem and retains the fail free anti syphon function that is desirable.

As Ann said upthread, this system worked for us in our previous boat for some 17 years and 6000 engine hours... without a single failure and zero maintenance.

Seems a no brainer to me...

Jim

[Sailmonkey]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

.

Yep, that's awful... but I bet they sell hose somewhere near the OP's location, and simply extending the current setup to the cockpit and one of its drains cures the "into the boat" problem and retains the fail free anti syphon function that is desirable.

As Ann said upthread, this system worked for us in our previous boat for some 17 years and 6000 engine hours... without a single failure and zero maintenance.

Seems a no brainer to me...

Jim

Agreed on all counts.

Other suggestions were made to allow operation for the time being until such a purchase of hose was possible.

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by Sailmonkey

Agreed on all counts.

Other suggestions were made to allow operation for the time being until such a purchase of hose was possible.

Another vote for this practical approach.

[Rumrace]

Sounds interesting how you snake the hose up to the cockpit or is this for a particular boat. I never realized it was an issue. Would a gauge be a bit more practical ?
Go you end up with a new hole in engine room.? Sounds like a repair to avoid maintenance or why wouldn’t my boat be built that way.

[JPA Cate]

"why wouldn't my boat be built that way?"

Mate, it is in doubt from your posts that you even have a boat! If you do, why not list on your avatar what your general location is, and what kind of a boat you have? If you ever have a question for the [diverse] group, it will help tune the answer to your location.

Our present boat IS built differently, and has an anti-syphon hose. However, the one we had previously, when it was over-loaded to go cruising, sunk so far down on its lines that we backfilled the head on the engine, thereby necessitating a head job at our next port. So, we solved the problem. And the memory of the water lock is vivid.

******

For the OP, you may have a longer piece of hose aboard that you can lead to a sink drain, just remember, the loop needs to get well above the water line, to allow the water to drain out an no new water come in.

Ann