I Got A Volvo 2003 Turbo Any Advice

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by redsky49

Rather than this approach, my suggestion would be for an hours worth of expert consultation, and a "go/no go" decision at the conclusion

I'm not really disagreeing with you--but. If you can't make this decision on your own, then a free 2003 will kill you one boat buck cut at a time. It isn't ever going to be a carefree engine.

[Rustic Charm]

Hi all, Very late on this post, as I've just found it.
My yacht has a Volvo Penta 2003T. I've had it now for two years. I know it's getting on, but I've decided, without the ability to compare any other engines, that there must be better engines out there. I've no plans to replace it at all, but, if I was I think I'd certainly research others.

I've found parts are exceptionally expensive. And I've compared them to the cost of replacing the same part of other marine engines and Volvo always seem to come out on top. But there are also some quite appalling design features in my opinion. Such as,

No drain plug for oil, you can only drain it through the small dip stick. I've discovered it has a blank bung for a plug to go but it was never fitted and neither were any.

Copper water pipes are fitted in place by a $10 rubber seal that is not held in place. With the engine running these leak, even new ones, so I've had to use a sealant around them when reinstalling.

Oil Cooler has a reputation for disintegrating. $1800 to replace it so I've purchased an after market for $250 which looks to be a much better proposition.

Air cleaner cannot be cleaned, you are expected to replace it, but guess what, they don't make them any more so it's an after market product.

However, there are some positives,

It starts first time every time.
I live in Tasmania, so it's pretty cold down here in water. There is a cold start procedure on the 2003T and that works well, first time every time. You simply pull out the 'stop' lever for a few seconds, close it, and then start. (reminds me of Windows, start to stop).

Oil is the same oil for the gear box and filters and fuel filters are easy to replace.

Bleeding system is easy and it all progresses well without any annoying little places the air gets trapped.

Well, that's my opinion.. And yesterday i've found I need a new rear 2000 series engine mount because they have separated.. boats!

[COLINFLTENG]

No need for drain plug no oil spill that way change oil very 50 hours new engine approx $10000? got 2700 hrs on engine half live got 15-20 years to go new engine

[Rustic Charm]

Yes, I change my oil every season, that's once a year, which is probably every thousand hours. But that's not what I was suggesting an oil bung for. Changing oil through the dip stick is not easy and u can't set up a permanent oil removal pump. In addition to that, via the dip stick doesnt remove all the oil, and it would be helpful to be able to remove the gunk that settles in the bottom. But compared to everything else, it's a minor thing. It is interesting that I'm told later models have drain plugs?

[COLINFLTENG]

If you racking up a 1000 hrs per season you should be looking for new engine soon if you are changing oil very season. I have no problem changing oil and if you change oil you will not have gunk in the bottom Change oil filter as well. Make sure to get proper oil change tank

[Rustic Charm]

Yes fair call. I was thinking 100m I wrote that on my iPad sitting watching my kids play football. Anyway, so far I've had my boat three years in September. I live 8 hours motoring up a river from ocean. I'd do that trip three or four times a year. Add altogether about 14 hours motoring on a sailing trip over ten days last Christmas (that's our summer), so typically I'm somewhere under 100. The hour reader hasn't worked I'd suggest for many years so I've purchased a new one and will fit it during this service when I put the engine back in. The common Manuel for mine doesn't say when to do it but it seems commonly thought that once a season is sufficient on discussions on this forum and others unless I was doing exceptionally long motoring. From this summer my boat will be permanently housed an hour from sailing, so that will drop my hours down well below 50.

I see you have an electric pump out? Mine is a brass hand one and even with hot oil it's hard going.

[COLINFLTENG]

That is maual pump takes about 30 minutes with warm oil

[Rustic Charm]

I don't suppose you know what the attached drain is do you? My manual doesn't explain it that I can find.

[COLINFLTENG]

Why do what to know?

[Rustic Charm]

Why do I want to know?

Seriously? Am I missing something? .. emm.. because if it's a secret way to make the engine go faster by connecting nitrix oxcide then I want to know..

umm, because it's on my engine and I'd like to know what it does, what it's there for. If it's there, it's no doubt there for a reason..

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by tedsherrin

I don't suppose you know what the attached drain is do you? My manual doesn't explain it that I can find.

It drains the engine coolant.

[Rustic Charm]

Thank you. someone on another post clarified it for me too. I had considered this was a coolant drain, but where it was situated I thought it was too far back. Thanks for your response.

[COLINFLTENG]

Now we both know how about zinc plug do have one on your engine 2003T

[Rustic Charm]

Mine is a fresh cooled engine and therefore doesn't have a zinc anode. There is a plug there for it, but it's only a cover.

[delcrest]

I am looking at a cat that has these motors fitted, but the cat has been in storage about 6 years, would it be practical to dump the engines and use a new engine in the same HP range , what was the base engine perkins, lister?? . Are todays sail drives any different to those installed on the 2003T in yesteryear, any info would be appreciated, and thanks in advanace