I desperately need a replacement morse throttle rec for a Volvo Penta 2003

[vwkevin]

Hi all,

My Volvo Penta 2003's morse throttle desperately needs to be replaced - servicing the existing throttle assembly will not do. I've looked around quite a bit, but I'm kind of at a loss for what I need to order. I imagine this really shouldn't be too complicated, but can anyone make a recommendation? I have attached photos of the existing setup.

Thanks!

[NYSail]

Volvo Penta Engine Concealed Side Mount Throttle Shift Control Box w/Tilt Trim https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FK66PFT..._bWJTDbFFST14G

I guess you are saying you want to replace the entire unit and not just the Morse cables.....

Good luck
Greg

[coopec43]

I think you have quite a few choices. Do you plan to replace the whole throttle assembly or just the lever?

https://www.google.com/search?q=mors...w=1008&bih=588

[vwkevin]

I'm planning on replacing the whole assembly but don't want to have to alter anything on the engine side. Something like this seemed appealing, but I'm still not sure it would work as it's a little different from what I have. I imagine these assemblies are pretty interchangeable though.

https://www.vetus.com/en/boat-instru...nico-7876.html

https://www.vetus.com/en/boat-instru...c-housing.html

Any thoughts?

[darylat8750]

Here is one similar to post 2 but without the tilt trim switch. Much less expensive also.

https://www.amazon.com/Volvo-Penta-C...M26YJXP3VR1Y93

[Tillsbury]

Your magic google search is “teleflex Morse control”. This will get you the Volvo parts at half price without the Volvo sticker.

[coastalexplorer]

Hello. I am totally at a loss to understand why you want to replace it? when I took over the sailing vessel I am restoring there was one of those in a bin full o0d stuff that came with the boat. It was obviously left over from when it had its first two cylinder Volvo years before. long gone by the time I arrived on the scene I did not know at that time that it had anything to do with Volvo.


There is now a 2003 series engine in the boat. So as for that controller I took it apart cleaned everything. Sent the front cover off the the powder coating works. The first company did not do very good work So I had to take it to a different company. Hence by the time I paid twice that total bill was $50.


The lever was sent out to be re-chromed, $ 117.


The gear box filled with white lithium grease and its as good as new.


BTW check your damper connection between engine and gear box. it is probably badly worn. If so contact>
Barbara Mark
NextWave Marine Systems Inc.,
5-3125 Van Horne Road,
Qualicum Beach, BC.
Canada V9K2R3
Tel: 250 752 1790
Fax: 250 752 2791
bmark@suredrivemarine.com
www.suredrivemarine.com

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

Your magic google search is “teleflex Morse control”. This will get you the Volvo parts at half price without the Volvo sticker.

THIS ^

[spotfire]

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

Your magic google search is “teleflex Morse control”. This will get you the Volvo parts at half price without the Volvo sticker.

Been there.



Exactly so, go to fisheries or wherever and you will have the exact duplicate for less than half price.

[deblen]

Google "Teleflex Morse single lever side mount control"
There are several models that all fit your MD 2003 diesel. You do not need a "tilt" control-that is for outboards / Len


https://www.google.com/search?client...4dUDCAY&uact=5

[vwkevin]

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions everyone! Due to my relatively immediate need to fix this, I just hopped on the Volvo brand throttle recommended. At about $225, I could stomach it, but I hope it actually works. Thankfully a return shouldn't be too bad with Amazon if it doesn't.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The current throttle's mounting screws were so old that they were basically bonded to the throttle assembly. I tried some high quality penetrating oil without any luck. Screws were fairly stripped to begin with which didn't help anything. I then tried drilling out the old screws (which I usually could've done without problem) but ended up damaging the throttle assembly in the process - I was being too hasty. Not a huge loss, but as I said I definitely cannot service the old throttle as I had originally hoped to.

On a sidenote, the damper comment was really interesting to me. I've been getting a little noise that could possibly be attributed to the damper. Looks like a challenge to change. Any other things I should check on an old Volvo? I've changed thermostat, fuel pump, all o-rings, adjusted valves, replaced fuel system, replaced oil filter, replaced impeller, replaced exhaust elbow, replaced the raw water intake system, and probably more. Strangely, this engine does not seem to have zincs which is definitely concerning me. I think I read that some Volvo Pentas didn't have them. The typical zinc mounting area behind the alternator is just a plug...no chance is it a worn zinc. It looks like maybe something could be made to fit at the end of the thermostat housing. Anyone have experience with this? This is a raw water only engine.

[wingssail]

Originally Posted by vwkevin

Hi all,

My Volvo Penta 2003's morse throttle desperately needs to be replaced - servicing the existing throttle assembly will not do. I've looked around quite a bit, but I'm kind of at a loss for what I need to order. I imagine this really shouldn't be too complicated, but can anyone make a recommendation? I have attached photos of the existing setup.

Thanks!

I've had the exact same control unit, the gears in the back are delicate. Corrosion makes them hard to operate, we force it, and bingo, it's broken.

Luckily almost any single handle control will work. I put one in from a speedboat store in Panama City. The one you've selected from Volvo is fine. Teleflex CH2100p is good.

Installation hints:

Water can get in through the axis of the handle. Seal the whole unit with sealant and use plenty of thick grease where the shaft penetrates to the inside. Pack it.

Be careful that you get the orientation of the gear shift lever correctly or forward will be reverse. You do not want to discover this when you are backing out of your slip.

Be careful about the adjustment of the cables so that there is not excess force on either the throttle or the gear shift. That force can break things.

Finally, when operating these devices make sure you have it in neutral before you press in or release the "disengage button or knob". The weird gears inside are easily broken.

Good luck

[darylat8750]

Originally Posted by coastalexplorer

Hello. I am totally at a loss to understand why you want to replace it? when I took over the sailing vessel I am restoring there was one of those in a bin full o0d stuff that came with the boat. It was obviously left over from when it had its first two cylinder Volvo years before. long gone by the time I arrived on the scene I did not know at that time that it had anything to do with Volvo.


There is now a 2003 series engine in the boat. So as for that controller I took it apart cleaned everything. Sent the front cover off the the powder coating works. The first company did not do very good work So I had to take it to a different company. Hence by the time I paid twice that total bill was $50.


The gear box filled with white lithium grease and its as good as new.


The lever was sent out to be re-chromed, $ 117.


The gear box filled with white lithium grease and its as good as new.


BTW check your damper connection between engine and gear box. it is probably badly worn. If so contact>
Barbara Mark
NextWave Marine Systems Inc.,
5-3125 Van Horne Road,
Qualicum Beach, BC.
Canada V9K2R3
Tel: 250 752 1790
Fax: 250 752 2791
bmark@suredrivemarine.com
www.suredrivemarine.com

"The gear box filled with white lithium grease and its as good as new."


Grease?? Am I missing something?

[spotfire]

Originally Posted by vwkevin

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions everyone! Due to my relatively immediate need to fix this, I just hopped on the Volvo brand throttle recommended. At about $225, I could stomach it, but I hope it actually works. Thankfully a return shouldn't be too bad with Amazon if it doesn't.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The current throttle's mounting screws were so old that they were basically bonded to the throttle assembly. I tried some high quality penetrating oil without any luck. Screws were fairly stripped to begin with which didn't help anything. I then tried drilling out the old screws (which I usually could've done without problem) but ended up damaging the throttle assembly in the process - I was being too hasty. Not a huge loss, but as I said I definitely cannot service the old throttle as I had originally hoped to.

On a sidenote, the damper comment was really interesting to me. I've been getting a little noise that could possibly be attributed to the damper. Looks like a challenge to change. Any other things I should check on an old Volvo? I've changed thermostat, fuel pump, all o-rings, adjusted valves, replaced fuel system, replaced oil filter, replaced impeller, replaced exhaust elbow, replaced the raw water intake system, and probably more. Strangely, this engine does not seem to have zincs which is definitely concerning me. I think I read that some Volvo Pentas didn't have them. The typical zinc mounting area behind the alternator is just a plug...no chance is it a worn zinc. It looks like maybe something could be made to fit at the end of the thermostat housing. Anyone have experience with this? This is a raw water only engine.

No zincs on this engine. I know of one at our yacht club used in a tender that has run every day(25 years, no freshwater system), since new in salt water, never missed a beat.

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by spotfire

No zincs on this engine. I know of one at our yacht club used in a tender that has run every day(25 years, no freshwater system), since new in salt water, never missed a beat.

The freshwater variety of this engine may not have an anode, but there is a bolt next to the thermostat housing that looks like a possibility. The raw water cooled version certainly does. The anode screws into a bolt that goes into the block just behind the alternator.

VWKevin, which version of this engine do you have, raw water or freshwater cooled?

There is also a drain for the block just above the starter motor if you need it. However, they often block up. Been working on mine for a couple of years now and still can't get it to drain.

Don't bother trying to clean the air filter or buy a new one from Vovlo, they are £130 in the UK Stick a K&N universal filter on instead @ £30.

finally, there is a thread at the top of the Engines and Propulsion forum which discusses the cold start mechanism on these engines. Worth having a good read of this as these engines, whilst good are getting on a bit now.

Pete