How do I diagnose a cracked engine block?

[model 10]

I think the bracket holding the pipe in position needs adj. Oh and I think there is a rule of thumb that you can get by with 5 threads min for a tension load and 3 for shear, both with 11/2 threads showing.

[mark maulden]

I was wondering how things are going..I have some cylinder bolts. As for your pump leak, it looks like the tube is not entering the pump straight. There are two ways you can work it. There is a tab off the tube that bolts to the engine. This can be slid on the bolt and then tightened to achieve a straight entry. Also the pump clamps can be loosened so the pump body can rotate. But it also affects the inlet hose. One of these or combo of should solve the problem. Also, the tube end should be absolutely clean and the receptor on the pump body also needs to be clean. Real clean..use a new rubber seal and when installed, the flange on the tube should be flush with lip on the pump. When installed correctly, it does work..surprisingly..you can also use a little spit on the outside of the seal to help it slide into place.

[mark maulden]

Another thing..tighten the fuel fittings on the injector before tightening the injector hold-down clamps. That way you dont put a load on the injector bolts..

[Compass790]

Glad you got it going. You can re-use the copper washers on the injection line if you anneal them although there is a limit as to how many times as they get squeezed thinner & wider. I would use nylon washers on the return line as then you dont need much pressure to seal them & wont risk breaking the bolt & the return line isnt high pressure.

[KimSails]

Thanks to each for your advice. I've made some progress, but it seems like 2 steps forward and 1 back.

The water pump leak is fixed. I loosened the water pump clamp bolts a little so that the pump can rotate. Also loosened the tube bracket bolt so the tube can slide a bit. Then I rotated the pump just a little, to center the tube fitting at the pump connection. Retightened the bolts and it seems to hold. At some point I may replace the rubber seal, but for now I would just like to go sailing!

New fuel return line bolts arrived Friday. The broken bolt came out of the injector pretty easily with a tapped in easy-out. So the return line seems to be holding fine.

But on the same injector, the high pressure line is now leaking. The compression nut seems to be bottoming- out at the injector. The compression head at the end of the fuel line looks the same on both cylinders. The threads seem to match on the injector and compression nut (not cross threaded). Is there anything I can do aside from replacing the fuel lines? New pre-made lines are no longer available. Is it realistic to get someone to made new lines, or do I just look for used lines (and hope that they are better than mine)?

The engine also sounds a little loud and knocking to me. I'm not sure if it is just that the engine cover is off, there is something wrong, or if the fuel leak on the rear cylinder has the engine running on just one cylinder. I did adjust the valve clearance (first cold and then warm, according to Volvo).

This is a link to a photo of the leaking line (unbolted) and a couple clips of the engine running, one at idle, one with a little throttle.

https://goo.gl/photos/KGnTUWvCAetYLETq9

***Update***
I don't know how or why, but the fuel leak seems to have stopped. I plan to keep a close eye on it, but will try to get some sailing in before Michigan winter comes. I would still appreciate any comments on replacing the fuel line (if/when if leaks again) and the sound of the engine.

Also, at one point in my testing the shutoff pin in the back of the engine came out, along with a spring. There is a nut at the hole, but it doesn't seem to be retaining the pin. Does anyone know:
-- what is supposed to retain this pin?
-- what does the pin actually do in the engine to shut it down when the pin is depressed?

Thanks!!
Kim

[mark maulden]

The engine sounds normal. Those engines are "knocky" engines and it sounds better up to speed. As for the fuel line, make sure all the mating surfaces of injector and pipe are clean. Threads on nut are clean. If the cone on the line has a definite impressed ring, it may be worn. For high press fuel lines, contact Wilburn at French Creek Marina in NY. He has someone that makes them. Probably have to do some bending for fit..

[DougR]

It appears that the stop plunger was able to escape while you were messing around with the O ring on the water pump, as the plunger is still in position (barely) in the earlier water pump photo in this thread. Evidently you removed the stop cable and that allowed the stop lever to tilt up and the plunger to escape.

Even so, the plunger shouldn't have come out, as it is normally retained in its tube by a circlip on its inner end. The nut that you refer to on the governor cover is part of a tube that the plunger rides in. Remove the nut and its tube, replace the spring,plunger, O ring, and circlip and you will be back in business. The old circlip is, no doubt, lying in the bottom of the crankcase and will stay there forever.

The function of the plunger is to press against one of the levers in the governor and push the injection pump rack to the "no fuel" position, thus stopping the engine.

DougR