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Old 04-03-2020, 11:09   #16
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

I have a Yanmar new old stock panel that I have in storage that I can sell you. It is for a stationary generator and includes all the sensors and wiring harness with the round connector. The panel is steel with vertical orientation and I was thinking that when I need it I'll strip out the gauges intact and install the whole thing on something a bit more nautical.... like starboard. It includes tach with hour meter, oil guage, temp guage, key switch and 2 keys etc.
It is still a bit of work to swap out the sensors and figure out if the tach is driven off alternator or flywheel, but the rest is pretty much power and ground to the harness.
I'd sell you the whole affair for $400.

PM me if that interests you at all.
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Old 04-03-2020, 18:34   #17
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

pic of panel front, back and harness etc.
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Old 05-03-2020, 06:54   #18
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

Kiss:

Before you do anything else, identify, clean, and reconnect the wiring connections for your existing setup.

Faulty connections are the #1 cause of problems.
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Old 05-03-2020, 07:08   #19
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

SOLID advice right there ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Old 12-03-2020, 09:09   #20
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

Since the current arrangement is questionable go to single analog instruments you can get at any auto parts , if one fails the rest will work , no high tech here . Just run the wires/capillary tubes to the final destination and you are in business for a very very long time
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Old 12-03-2020, 09:13   #21
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Hatteras passing

Any one out there with some info about rounding Cape hat , single handed, as close to shore as possible ? South bound
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Old 12-03-2020, 10:09   #22
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

If THAT isn't thread drift??? ^^^^^^^^^
How about putting that Q in the navigation section..... Mods??
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Old 12-03-2020, 10:23   #23
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

Greetings and belated welcome aboard the CF, George.
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Old 12-03-2020, 14:49   #24
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingnut40 View Post
If THAT isn't thread drift??? ^^^^^^^^^
How about putting that Q in the navigation section..... Mods??

bear with me , I am only trying to figure out how this posting business works.

Maybe some day I ll manage ,
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Old 07-04-2020, 12:05   #25
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

Mechanical gauges for pressure or temp is not what I would advise. They use Bourdon tubes and skinny metal tubing directly to the displays. We used them years ago because the choices were limited. Analog electrical gauges such as oil pressure, fuel level and temperature come in two general protocols as shown in the chart provided by Gord May. "American" has the same full-scale resistive range for all three meters where the Euro (VDO) protocol is distinct for each and often inverted for slope from the American so they are not compatible at all. Not sure if Yanmar analog gauges match that protocol.
Another huge factor is the mechanical aspect; Yanmar uses BSP pipe threads and senders like temperature and oil pressure mount to the engine. I made my own BSP to 1/8"NPT adapter from a brass plug for a coolant temp sender for my American temp gauge. You can go without an oil pressure gauge perhaps and just use the Yanmar alarm sender switch for low pressure.
Another consideration might be a large multi-display gauge with 3 or 4 analog meters in one case. If this matches the general appearance of the adjacent tach, that makes a professional looking installation.
I'd stay with the flywheel sensing if you have that. It has discrete # pulses/rev and bullet proof. Check newer programmable tachs (VDO is spiffy) with LCD for hours and other functions on the LCD and with these you won't need to calibrate (you program how many teeth) with a master tach. Yanmar tachs are typically smaller-sized than the common 3-3/8" hole (85mm) cutout size used for many tachs. They are made to match specific # of teeth, though lately Yanmar has changed to alternator sensing to cut cost. Many older tachs are fine too but make sure it is compatible with your sender. I think the Yanmar flywheel sender has no lock nut (unlike the drawing above) since it is designed to simply bottomed out on the bell housing. You can verify the clearance though or measure the AC voltage on a meter at idle. It won't be accurate reading--need an o'scope for that. This is known as a magnetic or proximity sender. Best to use twisted pair wiring for the ~1v signal to reduce noise pickup and signal loss. Some older diesel tachs are meant for proprietary pulse sender units that mount to the camshaft PTO. Try to avoid those.
Here's example info on Teleflex senders : http://gfretwell.com/electrical/teleflex%20senders.pdf
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Old 14-06-2021, 14:31   #26
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

i3DGear Marine - a Canadian 3D printing company, has designed replacement panels for both the Type B and Type C Yanmar instrument panels. Look at their website and there is information there on how to order replacement Yanmar engine panels.
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Old 14-06-2021, 20:12   #27
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Re: Help with Yanmar Engine Panel replacement

First you need to validate the senders your PO had installed. We have to assume he has added to the existing Yanmar ones to the engine block with resistance based devices that provided real pressure / temperature readings.

So at the block you will probably see the original Yanmar devices for engine protection and then added devices for the temperature / pressures to the MDF.

With the engine stopped:
Disconnect one at a time both the added temperature and oil senders.
Measure their resistance to ground.
Record Ω value
Reconnect wires at senders.

At the instrument panel where the wires go to the interface
Disconnect one at a time both of the temperature and oil senders wires.
Measure their resistance to ground.
Record Ω value

Resistance should be the same value as at the senders.
Now you have confirmed the wiring is functional

If greater than 5 Ω difference on either wire, than at sender, then you may have a wiring / connection issue. If so locate - typically you will find corrosion at the plugs in the wiring harness behind the instrument panel, or where they plug into the harness at the motor.

You can do the measurements at the panel again when the motor is running and up to temperature.

You will then get the "running values" The engine should continue to run when you do this, but that is dependent if the PO added additional senders or not. (We hope he did and left the engine protection senders and circuits in place)

You now know the resistance of each sender, then you can match that with new readout devices of your choice / price range from the WWW.

Dalestr has well covered the Tachometer replacement already in this thread.

Good thread here posted by GordMay in 2003: https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...sting-645.html
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