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Old 03-11-2021, 04:39   #1
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Help identifying this Walter transmission and raw water cooling modification?

The raw water intake hose goes to my V-drive transmission before exiting and going to the engine mounted pump. My MD-17c has been raw water cooled but I'm going to try to convert it to a heat exchanger system for a variety of reasons, but I'm interested in seeing if anyone can tell me about this Walter transmission (pictured below) and get opinions on making the transmission part of the coolant side of the system, which would mean having it "cooled" by coolant that is approximately 160+F. The transmission seems to still work very well and doesn't leak water or oil, but I'd like to get maintenance information on this model, but I can't seem to find a model number; all I can say is that it is original to this 1979 boat.
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Old 03-11-2021, 04:52   #2
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Re: Help identifying this Walter transmission and raw water cooling modification?

Walter is still out there making V-drives.

The Walter Machine Machine Co., Inc.

If you scroll down the page they show where they put the data plate now days - well out of sight, I might add.

I can think of bunches of reasons to switch away from raw water cooling. The list starts and ends with "rust." I'm also imagining that coolant straight out of the heat exchanger (well below thermostat temperature) would keep it happy.

Good luck with your project.
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Old 03-11-2021, 17:39   #3
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Re: Help identifying this Walter transmission and raw water cooling modification?

Back in the days of the MD17c and it’s sister engines of MD5, 7, and 11, Walter Vdrives were frequently fitted to the back end of the Volvo MS or MSB transmission. To make this possible, the reduction housing on the back of the VP transmission was removed and a Walters RV 10 v-drive was bolted in its place with the help of an adapter from Walters. As you have figured out, the V drive has a cooling loop of its own, normally fed by sea water before the engine system.

If you choose to include this transmission cooler in your freshwater system, you will have to include about 3% or 4% of the engine kW output into the heat rejection capacity of the heat exchanger. However, in most cases the transmission cooler is not included in the freshwater system and it works just fine residing in the saltwater loop.
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Old 03-11-2021, 18:13   #4
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Re: Help identifying this Walter transmission and raw water cooling modification?

Thanks for the info tkeithlu.
OK DougR, If you're right, I'm looking at about 1kJ, that should not be an issue given the arrangement I'm planning. I just want to be fairly sure that the higher temperature doesn't thin the gear lube to the detriment of bearings or friction surfaces that may rely on a certain viscosity or temperature of the unit or lube.
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Old 04-11-2021, 07:18   #5
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Re: Help identifying this Walter transmission and raw water cooling modification?

If you want to hear it straight from the horses mouth, give the guys at Walters Machine Co. in Jersey City a phone call.

They are the experts on their V-drives and can tell you everything you need to know about the gearbox lubrication and cooling. They are also engine and transmission heat rejection experts, having been in the keel cooler business for years and years.
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Old 04-11-2021, 10:03   #6
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Re: Help identifying this Walter transmission and raw water cooling modification?

There should be a plate riveted to the drive.
Walter V-Drives
I converted my MD11 to FWC years ago. Left the V drive as is. No issues after 26 years.
If you have a water heater make sure there is a restrictor in the system on the hose off the thermostat housing. I've seen quite a few people tear out their hair trying to find out why they have an over heat issue only to find the restrictor was removed. If you have the original owner's manula there should be a flow diagram of the cooling system. Basically the flow reverses through the water heater when the thermostat opens.
Mount your heat exchagner off the engine. The OE FWC option had an exhanger mounted on the manifold but they tend to crack. Sendur makes good exchangers.

Put in an air bleed on the top of the thermostat housing to bleed out any air bubbles in the system. Be prepared to add extra coolant after the T stat opens. Or vacuum fill the system. Mine has a hose that runs from the air tap into the exchanger fill. easy to bleed out the system with the engine running.

I modified my cranksahft pulley to take dual 1/2" belts and hung a FWC circulator pump off a bracket. You could use a 12V water/heater circualtor pumps off GM, VW/AUDI, Benz or BMW. Simple, easy.
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