heat exchanger

[maelduin]

Wondering if anyone out there might be familiar with Vetus ( 4.15 33hp 4cyl.) engines, more specifically, removing a heat exchanger that does not seem to budge? I've tried threading the screw into it and pulling with all my might.. The forward end cap seems very tight as well. It looks straight forward in the manual but before I go hitting things with a hammer I am hoping someone has a easier,better way of going about it. Thank you for any and all suggestions.

[DeepFrz]

If you posted some pictures there are folks here who could undoubtedly help you.

[maelduin]

I haven't been able to upload an image yet. I took one with my phone but not sure how to post it.

[maelduin]

This is what it looks like with the back cover off.

[DeepFrz]

Here is a link to another thread recommending Muriatic acid bath to remove the corrosion. I didn't read the complete thread so there may be other suggestions as well.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...on-179835.html

[Captsteve53]

I have the three cylinder version (but the heat exchangers are basically the same) both end caps will come off with some gentle tapping on the end cover, they get really stuck up over the years, (they are not threaded or special clips pins etc),

Cheers Steve

[Captsteve53]

Sorry, just checked my parts manual for the 3 & 4 cylinder and only shows a front end cap, the rear is solid, so perhaps yours is a newer model engine although the model number is the same?

Inside there's a rubber locating ring to keep the core from touching the Aluminium outer housing, also shows only coming out from the the front (obviously as the back side is sealed,

The muriatic acid/water mix should work but would be careful due to the aluminium housing which it will eat away rather quickly

Cheers Steve

[Sailmonkey]

Are you trying to pull it out the back with the front cover still attached?

If so, you'll make no progress.

Remove the front cover and try to pull it out the back again.

Also be sure to get the O-rings out before you pull it.

If it won't pull easily, employ a piece of soft wood (like white pine) on the tube bundle and drive it with a hammer (gently).

[Captsteve53]

Dam, Yes me again, need some glasses -the parts manual DOES show the rear cap!! on your model (and mine) it also shows the element going in and coming out one way only- so it not come out the rear it MUST come out the front, so tap the front cover and it will come off -same as rear then quietly with a wooden dowel knock out from the rear to the front, Apologies again!

[maelduin]

Thank you all for the great advice! The rear end cap is off but the front one is the bugger. Glad to know it may only need a little persuasion. By the way, I talked to the parts guy and asked him about annodes and he said he thought there were none. I haven't found any literature noting them. Will see I guess.

[Captsteve53]

Im sure some gentle persuasion will do he job! The parts manual shows no Zinc anode and remembering back when I had to replace the whole outer casing due to electrolysis (mainly around the caps and their O rings, With the new Casing and new O Rings i lubed them up with my favorite Duralac and have had no issues in the past years -cleaned two years back and no corrosion at all,I also smeared Duralac around the outer core of the location area's (three).

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/sadd...nting-compound

My outer casing does have a bolt in the rear lower end (presumably for draining) that has the same thread as for pencil zincs but from memory there's no room for the zinc to go inside as the hole is very close to the cooler core

Cheers Steve

[maelduin]

Thanks for the link and advice Steve!

[maelduin]

Hello Steve. This is a pic of the HE outer casing. Was this what you had to replace? And were the bolts and hoses all that had to be removed? As you probably can tell, I have not worked on engines before. Of course the pic came out sideways