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Old 06-07-2020, 15:04   #1
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Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

Hello:

I have a Volvo MD 2020 three cylinder diesel engine in my sailboat.

This past weekend I blew all the coolant. Apparently the collar on top of the heat exchange has come separated from the rest of the heat exchange.

The mechanic said that we might need to replace the part. He said alternatively we might be able to braze the collar back on.

I wonder whether anyone has any experience with this sort of problem, and whether they can suggest any possible remedies, cost savings, etc. to resolve my predicament.

Thanks again.

Michael
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Old 06-07-2020, 17:25   #2
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

By ....collar.... do you mean the coolant filler cap base or the end of the tube stack core?
If itís the filler cap base you could probably reinstall the neck with epoxy-metal filler if the housing is in good condition. Just give both parts a good cleanup with abrasive tools to achieve a good bond. Loctite, Selleyís and JBweld all produce pretty good products.
Pete.
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Old 06-07-2020, 17:53   #3
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

Take it to a radiator shop and have them solder it back together.
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Old 07-07-2020, 04:52   #4
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

Thanks guys:

Just to be clear I am indeed talking about the filler cap collar and not the other item.

Again, thanks.

Michael
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Old 07-07-2020, 05:15   #5
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

Follow Peteís advice....
The tank is aluminum, and the pressure cap base is brass, so I donít think you are going to solder or braze the two parts together.
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Old 07-07-2020, 10:05   #6
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

If you have the older rubber end caps the design is, in my opinion, poor. Perhaps an all metal heat exchanger would be better?
John
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:09   #7
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

Yes, it is the old style with a rubber end caps. I think you might be right about replacing it. I just donít want to take a second mortgage on my house!
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Old 07-07-2020, 11:43   #8
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

May I suggest emailing Beta and Bukh for a better design?
John
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Old 07-07-2020, 12:41   #9
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

Not sure I know what you mean.
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Old 08-07-2020, 01:36   #10
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

I suspect he means that if you can't get it repaired then shop around for an alternative. They can be very expensive items. It is not uncommon for alternative header tank / heat exchangers to be external. i.e. not mounted on the engine. Best of luck with the repairs.
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Old 08-07-2020, 06:55   #11
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

Well, you can get it repaired. I guess you can use some sort of Epoxy called “marine tex” or something like that. I just wonder whether that is ever going to be something you can rely on or whether it is a Band-Aid?

Brazing is not an option because the dissimilarity of the metals.

How do people feel about the Epoxy solution?
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Old 08-07-2020, 07:43   #12
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Re: Heat Exchange for Volvo MD 2020

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goofeyfoot View Post
Well, you can get it repaired. I guess you can use some sort of Epoxy called “marine tex” or something like that. I just wonder whether that is ever going to be something you can rely on or whether it is a Band-Aid?

Brazing is not an option because the dissimilarity of the metals.

How do people feel about the Epoxy solution?
Pete and Doug are right; the HE is supplied from the factory with a glued-in neck.

There is even a kit, shown below, to replace it. This is listed for an MD2040, but it may fit the 2010, 20 and 30 as well. Check with parts for engines to be sure.

https://www.parts4engines.com/volvo-...er-repair-kit/


As for the HE being a poor design, I'd rate the HE as adequate to reasonably good. There are of course certain procedures that need to be followed when fitting and maintaining it, but, unless you get one that is made from a metal that is as least as noble as cupro-nickel, an all-metal one will have similar idiosyncracies.

For the MD2020 exchanger, maintenance is pretty easy, regularly scheduled cleaning will have a big affect on it's operation and durability. Close attention should be paid when refitting after cleaning; the sealing areas on the housing and the cooling bundle should be clean, almost bright metal with no scaling, the bundle should be centered to allow maximum contact of all four sealing areas, the boots should be flexible with clean sealing areas (no hard stuck-on scaling should be present), and high quality hose clamps should be used.

The exhaust elbow should also be checked to ensure that it's water passages aren't clogged with scale, if they are, that can cause excess pressure in the raw water side, which can lead to raw and fresh water mixing, not a good thing, especially if you're running in saltwater.
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