Head removal of Perkins 4.108

[pr2501]

When I did lift the transmission to get to lower bolt (marked yellow from jumbunyard) it slipted and fell from height of 10 inches and hit the wood marked with red arrow. The hit was just right to separate transmission from engine.

I was lucky this time.

[pr2501]

Marked bolt (check attached image) on flywheel is hard to loosen, but I manage to take it out.
I hope to get them all out.

How have I then to precede to remove element which mentioned bolts are holding?

I have only one dowel pin on flywheel cover. Do I have to buy other one and install it to be sure that I will center the cover then?

[jimbunyard]

Once you get all the bolts out of the drive element, you should be able to tap it with a hammer or lever it off with a big screwdriver or smallish prybar. Same with the flywheel, though it may be a little more stuck on than the clutch disc element, and hence be a bit harder to persuade off.


It is very important that the flywheel housing is centered correctly so yes, you need to obtain another dowel.

[rbk]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

Once you get all the bolts out of the drive element, you should be able to tap it with a hammer or lever it off with a big screwdriver or smallish prybar. Same with the flywheel, though it may be a little more stuck on than the clutch disc element, and hence be a bit harder to persuade off.


It is very important that the flywheel housing is centered correctly so yes, you need to obtain another dowel.

It can be re-centered with a clock gauge (dial gauge with arm) centered and square to the crank shaft.

OP really, really needs to download and print the workshop manual. It is obvious he hasnt as almost all of his questions are in it, clearly explained with pictures:
http://www.fujiyachts.net/manuals/Pe...p%20Manual.pdf

[pr2501]

To remove the water pump manual does say to take off bolts marked with viola color. I think I had to hit harder as I did to get it down, but I am checking in case that there is something else?
In manual which is from 1972 there is another type of salt water ump. I presume that I can take down the pump only with removing of bolts marked yellow? Or are this bolts what manual is saying not to touch because they are holding the pump adaptor plate? In that case how to proceed to take the pump down?

To take down pulley from crank shaft I did locate blocking pin marked with green.
But now when I cannot see the valves how can I know, if first or forth cylinder is finishing the compression? Or it does not matter now because I will see it later when I will see marks on timing gear?

[pr2501]

And manual which lifeofreilly57 has sent does not have salt water pump.

[jimbunyard]

For the fresh water pump. remove nut 20, bolts 22, 24 and 30.

For the water pump">raw water pump, remove 4 nuts 20.

For the crank pulley, remove bolt 3. An impact here is easiest, the bolt is probably torqued pretty tight. It doesn't matter about where it is positioned on removal; it is keyed and only goes one way.

[rbk]

You have a Sherwood g64 raw water pump. If you haven’t considered it already upgrade to a serpentine belt, you will get a brand new fresh water pump and new timing cover seal to do while off. Also remember if you remove the backing plate for the raw water pump it MUST be properly aligned with a special tool or you will ruin the pump.

[pr2501]

For the crank pulley, remove bolt 3.

I have problem here. I can not get it off. I was using two flywheel bolts (check the attached image) to immobilize the crank shaft.

The engine is standing on front stands.


What could I do?

[rbk]

Buy or borrow a gear puller

[pr2501]

Sorry.
I was not clear. I can not remove the bolt which holds the pulley.

[rbk]

Soak in penetrating oil then hit it with a torch until it’s too hot to touch. Also try tighenting it a little to break the bond.

[rbk]

Soak in penetrating oil then hit it with a torch until it’s too hot to touch. Also try tighenting it a little to break the bond.

[jimbunyard]

The bolt is tightened to 150 ft lbs, and is probably supplied from the factory with Loctite (overkill in my opinion). It is counterclockwise-to-loosen (as shown by the positioning of the bolts and prybar in your picture) . Let the side of the bilge hold the prybar, As rbk, suggests, heat the bolt (Mapp gas is better than propane if you can get it, ox/acetylene is quickest) and end of the crank well to melt the Loctite, and use a breaker bar and socket to loosen.

[pr2501]

I need a breaker bar which has no any rotation:


And I was thinking that I should take oil pan down and fix the crank shaft with peace of wood, because prybar is difficult to fix and bolts are taking a lot of force.

For heating I can use only electric hot air gun. I have finished propane in my gas torch. I am not sure if i could borrow it from someone here in marina.