Finding Yanmar Oil Pan Plug

[Muaddib1116]

I have a Yanmar 4JH110, and I want to plumb an oil removal pump into the bottom of the oil pan. I'm trying to find specifications for the bolt that acts as the plug in the bottom corner of the pan. As far as I can tell, the user manual does not have that level of parts detail. Does anyone know where/how I can find a detailed parts diagram or something that would help me find out what size bolt this is?

[jimbunyard]

P/N is 105425-01690, Yanmar catalog says it's M16 but doesn't advise thread count.

These people say it's M16 - 1.5. Would be easy enough to get one and match it up at the hardware store, but I'd guess they're accurate.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Yanmar-L40-...75.c1#viTabs_0

[Muaddib1116]

Thanks! Can you tell me how you found that?

[jimbunyard]

Copied 'Yanmar 4JH110' and pasted it into google search bar, added 'manual' to the end, clicked on the first pdf catalog, scrolled down to the 'sump' page, copied and pasted p/n and 'plug' into google, read down the results till I saw one that had the number '1.5' in it (that's about what the picture looked like) and clicked on it to verify.

Here's the Yanmar parts catalog.

https://www.proboat-13.fr/Files/130776/4JH80-110.pdf

[Muaddib1116]

Thanks! For some reason I've never found that parts catalog. Honestly I still couldn't, even googling as you described. Thanks for the link.

[hpeer]

There is another way, maybe.

https://www.fumotousa.com/

The 4JH4 TE is arranged so that the dip stick can be mounted in either side. One side has a dip stick, the other has a dummy plug.

Take out the dummy and insert the above oil change valve. The plug is in the back of the engine and near the bottom of the slope.

Fumoto has an engine finder app on the site, my engine was listed there. I am guessing you and I have the same block.

You can then plumb to your oul change pump, the valve is an extra safety.

[Seymore]

I vaguely have in mind that Yanmar says to not disturb that plug in the back bottom of the sump, as it'll leak when you replace it, change the oil thru the dipstick opening. Accordingly, before you disturb the plug, perhaps touch base with a Yanmar dealer/repair shop.

[sail sfbay]

Originally Posted by Muaddib1116

I have a Yanmar 4JH110............Does anyone know where/how I can find a detailed parts diagram.........

Here you go: https://www.mecanique-plaisance-fini...h80-4jh110.pdf

[doublewide]

I pump the oil out through the dipstick hole.

[Bellinghamster]

My 4JH4-TE came with a oil change hose in one of the two threaded ports on either side of the pan (at the bottom corners near the bellhousing). The drain hose has a tag on it with a part number that I'm pretty sure is for the entire assembly of pan fitting, hose and possibly the ball valve.. I'll try to remember to look at it this weekend when I'm on the boat.

The dipstick is in the other port. I kind of remember the dipstick base being a banjo fitting at the pan, so the plug would be a straight thread flanged plug with a crush or copper washer.

Alternatively, remove the oil pan drain plug, and drill/tap (or have a machine shop do it if you don't have the capability) with 1/4" female pipe thread and screw in appropriate fitting to adapt to a hose (i.e 1/4" male pipe to 3/8 hose nipple). Replace or anneal the copper washer to reduce the chance of it leaking.

[Bellinghamster]

Ah, figure 24 on page 31 shows a banjo fitting dipstick tube on one side and a who-knows-what fitting on the other (JIC to flare?). Do you have 2 dipsticks on your engine, one each side?

If your dipstick has the banjo fitting, then the who-knows-what fitting is Yanmar PN 23831-100000. Looks like its only ~$6. Buy one and take it to a hydraulic shop to come up with a way to adapt it to 3/8" hose (or better, replace with a single fitting with matching threads that goes straight to 3/8 hose)

[jimbunyard]

This is neither mysterious nor 'rocket science', the Yanmar pan has two drain/dipstick tube locations to allow it's use in various applications without stocking two separate oil pans, and the plug is a non-tapered, M16 x 1.5 mm thread, the 'parallel thread' designation determined by the shoulder seal listed in the parts manual and shown in pictures of the plug.

The simplest (and therefore [usually] cheapest), most leak-resistant solution is a M16 x 1.5 male 'shoulder seal' x 3/8" NPT male connector, threaded into the oil pan, connected to a single wire, #6 hose with a 3/8" NPT reusable connecter on one end and a #6 flared female reusable swivel fitting on the other, which attaches to a a male #6 x whatever-his-pump-size-is male connector. (reusable fittings 'cause one can make hoses up themselves, if they have a vise)

All these fittings will be readily available in any hydraulic shop in the Boston area; I found a gazillion options online, starting at about 3.00 for the key connector, the metric/NPT one; SS was even available, starting at about 12.00, but this is an unnecessary expenditure, unless Yanmar has started supplying SS pans (like the one on my 200 hp Volvo).

Speaking of which, my setup for a gravity drain on that engine is exactly as described above (except I use #8 hose and fittings), up to the point where it would screw into the OP's pump, where I have a 1/2" stainless steel, hardware-store ball valve, capped with a 1/2" NPT female cap for idiot-proofing.

The single wire hose is used to prevent deterioration-from-cloth-reinforced-hose oil loss, as well as from physical damage like abrasion or impact. The 'system' has been in place, untouched and leak free, for 27 years now.

Regarding the banjo connection, they too are easily available on line; it may be better to order the M16 x 1.5 size 'bolt' complete with the banjo, to avoid any potential problems with length or sealing diameters. These are available in an even wider selection, in both material and 'outlet' configuration, from plain carbon steel to titanium, and many metric and SAE, male and female 'outlet' dimensions.

Their main advantage is an infinite range of axial orientation; I don't like them mostly because they double the possibility for leakage (for a gravity drain they add a flow-reducing restriction, accentuated by viscous liquids), though, properly installed, this is a (mostly) false concern...

[jakkum]

If you cannot find it, if IT does not exist, buy a second plug, still a hole in IT and weld what is needed for a valve OR other connection. Better weld first and still afterwards