I’ve seen lots of inexpensive ways that people have polished their
fuel, with both permanent systems and removable systems. Allie Rose has an integrated
fuel tank, and due to having sat for awhile, there is plenty of gunk contained therein. In fact, while motoring to Charleston (her new home port) from Oriental, NC - I had to deal with an
engine failure due to a clogged secondary filter two separate times while in dead calm winds more than 50 miles off the coast… my ego got the best of me in the planning phase.
To permananely rectify this problem, I received two quotes, both in excess of $500, for a one time “polishing” of the
fuel in the tank. I’ve never paid anyone to
work on the
boat other than the
air conditioning system, and never want to again. With further
research, I found this product -
Racor P510MAM. It is a fuel polishing filter with an integrated
pump and
water detection
sensor. I already have two secondary fuel filters (Racor 500 Series), so my
game plan is to do the following.
Install this “integrated-pump-secondary-fuel-filter-polishing-system” with a three way valve that would allow it to filter fuel in a closed loop back into the tank, as well as to serve as a backup,
emergency fuel
delivery system to
route fuel to the
engine with the use of an additional three way valve. I think that the entire system could be pretty neat once it’s all said and done. I am also installing three
remote, “dash” (cockpit locker) mounted fuel pressure gauges to
monitor the resistance of the fuel filters while underway.
I’d love any feedback that you are able to share. I believe that what I am doing is likely extremely overkill, however, my other half has pretty much refused to go
offshore without a three-times-redundant fuel
delivery system after that experience (it was her first time on a boat… I also didn’t think that one through either).
A few additional notes for further clarification.
I’m using ⅜” A1 hose for all fuel pick up, coming from the same “tap” as the main fuel output to avoid drilling into the tank and having to open it up.
Am I being lazy here? Should I create a secondary tap? Or should I not splice into that line with a three way valve at all, and simply use a copper tube that routes directly into the 1” access port that is raised up from the tank?
I’m going to wire the
pump with Ancor 16 gauge duplex to an independent circuit. The total distance is less than five feet. It also has an independent on/off switch built into its design.
The pump moves A LOT of fuel - 60 GPH. I’m slightly worried about the
diesel fuel foaming up. Contemplating a timer of some sort, but likely will just ensure not to run it in a closed loop for more than 30 minutes.
A few additional questions.
The specs from the manufacture recommend a ⅜” input and output line. In order to splice into the fuel line after the secondary filter and primary
fuel pump (but before the primary fuel filter), it would be easiest and best for me to use a ⅜” to 5/16” NPT adapter. Is that fine? Or will this cause wear and tear on the
motor of the filter-pump?
Perhaps most importantly - there is a 5/16” fuel line that goes from the primary
fuel filter attached to the engine, directly back into the
fuel tank. I presume that this is for excess air to bleed back into the tank? I’d like to splice into that line with a three way brass shut off valve in order to create the closed loop polishing system back to the tank. Is that fine?
Actually - this is my most important question. 60 GPH is significantly more than the
fuel pump that pulls fuel to the engine would ever move. Is this a problem, trying to use this as a backup
emergency fuel routing system? The engine will only take as much fuel as it needs, correct? Just wanting to make sure that I’m not wasting time and
money on fittings and hose to
route this for such a circumstance if it’s not going to work/would not be necessary.
It’s probably pretty difficult to understand what I’m asking and describing - I’ve run through countless diagrams and ideas thus far. Just for fun, I’m also incorporating into the system some
remote dash mounted pressure gauges.
I’ll be sure to post photos of the entire system once complete. While I’m at it in the engine compartment, other projects I hope to continue working on (time and
budget allowing). I plan on removing all of the old
insulation and installing “sound down”, 2” thick
insulation throughout the engine bay. A
photo of the quote is attached. Continue to clean up all old
wiring in the engine room area. The old owner allegedly has an
oil change kit in a
storage unit back in
North Carolina. I need to get up there to pick it up. I figured while working on the engine, might as well change the
oil. It only has about 250 hours on it, but I don’t think it has ever been changed. Lastly, I hope to learn more about the impeller and how to replace it, as this is something I’ve never had to do. Is this something people ever replace preemptively?
Anyway, that’s all. I’ll post photos of before and after once finished, or if you’d like a diagram of what I’m considering doing, I’ll be happy to take the time to draw it out in a larger scale for you and post too. Thank you, very much, for any and all feedback you may have.