Engine room insulation and positive feed air

[FPNC]

Do not rely on adhesive alone to secure the foam. In not to long a time the foam will eventually fall down. Use screws with big washers and or the spikes with a perforated base. Attach the perforated base with something like 5200 adhesive.

Eventually the foam will separate from the glue. The mechanical fasteners will take the load off the glue and prevent premature failure.

[David B]

Originally Posted by FPNC

Do not rely on adhesive alone to secure the foam. In not to long a time the foam will eventually fall down. Use screws with big washers and or the spikes with a perforated base. Attach the perforated base with something like 5200 adhesive.

Eventually the foam will separate from the glue. The mechanical fasteners will take the load off the glue and prevent premature failure.

I hear where you are coming from, but modern adhesives - as long as the surface is clean -are pretty good.

Our engine bay was built in 2011, and to date all is a good (and as clean …..) as the day it was produced, and that's peel & stick foam too.

[Scubaseas]

I hear where you are coming from, but modern adhesives - as long as the surface is clean -are pretty good.

The sound barrier foam itself is what fails, not the adhesive. I second using mechanical fasteners like screws and fender washers if using heavy, lead sheet centered sound deadening material.

[David B]

Originally Posted by Scubaseas

The sound barrier foam itself is what fails, not the adhesive. I second using mechanical fasteners like screws and fender washers if using heavy, lead sheet centered sound deadening material.

Yes, I would say that is correct. Thankfully for us, the foam that Beneteau used on our boat is just fine nearly a decade on. Where I have peeled it back to get extra cabling in, it has seemed perfect, and has gone back like new also.