End of season engine maintenance - DIY or hire a pro?

[LongRange]

After 4 months of faultless service this summer, the Volvo D2-75 in our Dufour 455 is about to take a break for 6 months during the European winter.

Is it feasible for a reasonably competent amateur to perform the requisite checks and maintenance on that engine, to ensure it is ready for another equally faultless summer next year, or is it a better idea to pay a professional to maintain the engine?

The boat is a 2005 model, the engine has 1250 hours on it, including about 150h this summer, and it underwent a major service last may just before we bought the boat. The entire engine was pulled out and the S-drive seals were replaced at that time.

I understand the basics of how engines work, and I am competent with electronics, electrics, and general mechanics, but I have never before done much more than change a spark plug in an engine (I realise diesel engines don't use those ).

Is this a case of "if you have to ask, you shouldn't try to do it yourself"?

Thanks for all suggestions and comments.

[lamadriver]

No Its a brilliant idea to do it your self.

Not much to it. plenty of resources on how to winterize or store a motor, Calders book is a good start and you get it in kindle format

Its not complicated , plus it has the advantage of getting you more familiar and comfortable around your motor... You want that!

[gamayun]

It will give you immense satisfaction to know you did it yourself. I learned on my own. The maintenance stuff is not hard and there are lots of great YouTube videos! I also spent a lot of time in the Yanmar dealer's shop asking questions and hired someone to help me so I'd learn the "tricks." I have made mistakes, and had to learn some things the hard way (like when the gasket slipped off reinstalling the exhaust pipe and I sooted up everything) but that's also a great teaching moment. Perhaps you can find someone to check your work afterwards or to look over your shoulder as you do it. This would give you more confidence that you did everything properly the first time. Heck, even the pros can make mistakes...

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by gamayun

It will give you immense satisfaction to know you did it yourself....

Only if it doesn't freeze and crack over the winter.

If you have the engine manual listing the winterization process and you understand it and feel you can do exactly what it states, you can save some money and get to know your engine.

If not, there's no shame in paying a pro to winterize your engine.

I know plenty of smart, educated people who are great in their own field but have little or no mechanical ability. I had a highly educated next door neighbor who didn't realize that it mattered which terminals on the battery the cables were connected to. He called me over because his boat wouldn't start. He had hooked the battery up backwards and blew the fuse in the outboard motor.

I do much of my own maintenance, but I've spent my entire life fixing things.

[MarkSF]

In my opinion it's a valuable skill to be familiar with the engine, and procedures like changing the fuel filters, bleeding the fuel system, and so on, because one day you might have to do that at sea, maybe under time pressure.

Servicing the engine is as good a way as any to get familiar with it. Is there a manual that includes maintenance procedures? The one on my Universal is excellent.

One thing : I recommend doing the service - fuel filters, impeller, changing the oil, etc, then running the engine for at least 20 mins under load (the dock lines will take it). Mine usually cuts out after 10, and then I bleed the fuel system again. Then it's fine for the rest of the year. While it's running check carefully for coolant, raw water, and oil leaks.

Then you can winterize it. You just don't want to do everything, then find out in the spring that there's a problem.

[S/V Alchemy]

Originally Posted by lamadriver

No Its a brilliant idea to do it your self.

Not much to it. plenty of resources on how to winterize or store a motor, Calders book is a good start and you get it in kindle format

Its not complicated , plus it has the advantage of getting you more familiar and comfortable around your motor... You want that!

I would add that it may be a mistake to assume that your mechanic is either skilled enough to service your particular motor or to be as diligent as you, the rookie concerned with making a costly error, would be.

It takes an hour or two and involves raising and lowering via some loops of line some jugs of various liquids over the side (don't one-hand down a ladder). You will learn a lot and can spot problems, like loose or corroded wires and clamps or damaged hoses, BEFORE they get to the point when they shred or fall off or split when you are trying to motorsail off a lee shore. You are the skipper. There are very few jobs you should, if smart and fit enough to sail, wish to farm out. Like injector repair...you should farm out, as it requires special equipment...but not a lot else.

[Kenomac]

Of course, nobody has so far asked where you'll be leaving the boat or how cold it gets....

I'm able to do things myself, changing the oil is quite easy but flushing the salt water system water, then filling it with antifreeze takes some thought. I've found the easiest way is to shut the through hull raw water intake valve, then pour the fresh water and then the antifreeze into the raw water strainer to allow it to be sucked up into the engine while it's being run. To flush the system while on the hard, I've done it two ways, one was to flush the engine using a large funnel attached to a garden hose, then held over the raw water intake. Let the engine run for a few minutes to get all the salt and crud out, then close the seacock and pour the antifreeze into the raw water strainer while running the engine. Shut off the engine after enough is in the system. Basically, you want any water in the engine cooling system to be antifreeze.

With the freshwater system, empty the entire system with all the faucets open until the system is bone dry, then leave the boat with all faucets left open just in case there's a little water someplace that can freeze. Your hot water tank should in some way be disconnected from the system to prevent galvanic corrosion of the inner hot water coil.

I hope this helps. Usually here in Northern Italy, I let the very reliable attendant do the engine preps. It's only 180 euros for two engines which would cost me around 60-80 euros to do it myself, plus I'd need to hunt down and tote 10-15 gallons of antifreeze back to the boat by bicycle. But if there's a screw up.... I'm covered because then it's his fault, so it's cheap insurance. He doesn't mess up.

[sailing_gal]

I have always done my own winterization with my boat when it was in Maryland. It is not difficult, there are many checklists on the web. Change the oil even if it is not due, combustion can cause engine oil to create hydrochloric acid, which if left sitting can damage your engine- so for a long layup, change the oil. Oil filter should be changed if it is due (I generally change the oil filter every other oil change). The cooling system is not difficult, like you said, close the through hull, open the strainer and pour in antifreeze while somebody else starts the engine and wait until you see it clearly come out of your exhaust, then turn off. Assuming you need to put antifreeze in your fresh water system, I recommend adding a Y valve before your fresh water pump so you don't need to put antifreeze into your water tank. Drain the tank first. Then using a Y valve, suck up anti-freeze by running it through every tap on the boat.

Don't forget to also pour antifreeze into any strainer that feeds sea water, like an anchor wash- you need to winterize that hose as well. One person pours it into the strainer while another person runs whatever it is that is sucking the sea water until you see the anti-freeze. Similarly for fresh water- make sure you run every faucet, hot and cold water taps, any fresh water outside sprayer. Also, don't forget to pour anti-freeze down the heads to winterize the sanitation hoses and also pour some down every sink drain. Don't forget to winterize any pumps also- ie water cooling pumps for a fridge or pumps for showers.

Be systematic, start from the bow or stern and carefully work your way aft or forward. This is not rocket science, just pay attention to every drain, pump and tap.

[Stu Jackson]

Originally Posted by Kenomac

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I've found the easiest way is to shut the through hull raw water intake valve, then pour the fresh water and then the antifreeze into the raw water strainer to allow it to be sucked up into the engine while it's being run. To flush the system while on the hard, I've done it two ways, one was to flush the engine using a large funnel attached to a garden hose, then held over the raw water intake. Let the engine run for a few minutes to get all the salt and crud out, then close the seacock and pour the antifreeze into the raw water strainer while running the engine. Shut off the engine after enough is in the system. Basically, you want any water in the engine cooling system to be antifreeze.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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Not everyone has a strainer that is positioned to do that. Some have the strainers right at the trhu hull.

In that case:

Winterizing an Engine on the Hard (Thanks to Maine Sail) - NEVER connect a hose to your raw water pump inlet - NEVER!!!

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowner...ht=winterizing

[Martin S]

As others have said there is a huge benefit in doing it yourself and there are so many learning resources and videos, plus forums when you are stuck.
It's (in my view) reasonable to have a "pro" do it if you are limited in time and have the money. Just having the money is a cop out!

[Tetepare]

I have never bled the fuel out of my Universal, and it's 27 years old and runs great. Winter layup is six months. In fact, I don't know anyone who bleeds off the diesel.

[MarkSF]

So what do you do after changing the fuel filters? Does it run great on air?

[Tetepare]

Originally Posted by MarkSF

So what do you do after changing the fuel filters? Does it run great on air?

I don't specifically change filters before winter layup. I do it in spring. I get what you mean though.

[Kenomac]

Originally Posted by Stu Jackson

Not everyone has a strainer that is positioned to do that. Some have the strainers right at the trhu hull.

In that case:

Winterizing an Engine on the Hard (Thanks to Maine Sail) - NEVER connect a hose to your raw water pump inlet - NEVER!!!

http://forums.catalina.sailboatowner...ht=winterizing

Hooking up a hose to a large funnel and feeding the water to the through hull inlet works just fine, there isn't excessive pressure, just enough to feed water into the inlet with someone holding the funnel against the hull.

[Mithril Bham]

Had a great sailing instructor who would ask his students: "What is the most important part of a sailboat?". Answer: "The engine". Maybe not but got the point across especially up here with our currents, rocks and lack of wind.

Do it yourself. If you don't feel confident hire someone experienced to look over your shoulder the first time. It's important to be familiar with your engine. Can save your life or, at least, your boat.

Plus, it's sort of fun.