Up date 1 July
Yesterday I'm removed the plastic exhaust tubing from the Elbow
There was nearly a total exhaust tube filled with water in that tube up to near the elbow
The elbow mixxer seems very clean very little carbon. and seems to new or nearly new and might even be stainless steel
I can only conclude a serious of events
put enough water in the exhaust system to cause it to fill up the exhaust system with water enough that it finally got up to the elbow mixxer.
The water then went the wrong way and got into engine via exhaust valves .
I looked the entire plumbing
The water from the valve that feeds the water pump
impeeler recently replaced by me goes into the heat exchanger
After that the intake cooling
water then goes to a devise that is about one foot higher than the engine head
and now warmer water seems to be pushed upwards to some sort of U bend . I think that U bend is to stop airlocks .
This devise then seems to then send the water downwards to the elbow mixxer .
This devise seems to have third pipe very narrow that goes to the stern of the boat
My best guess it is this narrow pipe allows air to get into the top of the devise if air is needed
Therefore I assume this is some sort of siphon device that is needed if the boat
heels at high angles .
The elbow mixxer then enters a plastic exhaust system pipe which has two muffler
The first muffler
water trap devise is about three feet from engine
This muffler is mid way down the exhaust system some three feet from elbow mixxer and is nealy below the level of the engine .
The exhaust gas then goes a few feet after first muffler to the stern where there is a second exhast muffler type devise .
This stern muffler device has a large U bend to help stop the water going into the exhaust when waves hit the boats stern .
The exhaust gas exits about two inches above the sterns water level when it is a flat sea like the marina is in calm days
When engine runs the water pumps in pulses and verifies the engine with impeller etc is working correctly .
My best guess is the water some weeks earlier in boat flooding event getting to near the sump level of boat and allowed the first muffler device to become totally full of water
Then over time when engine was running the level of water in the piping system increased until the point where either wave actions hitting the stern drove more water in or running the engine at low RPM
at the marina filled up the exhaust with more water
Trying to remove the plastic exhaust pipe with standing on it made a water sound that now I think was the full water in that tube being pushed further into the first muffler device below sea level
Once Plastic pipe separated from elbow mixxer every time I shook the plastic pipe the water level in the pipe would drop a few inches and the muffler would burp as it ingested this water.
Therefore I will tommorow drain all water inside all the exhaust system and hopefully this will cure the problem of water ingress into the exhaust system .
That won't help me figure out where the large oil comes from
The Yanmar switch type oil low pressure device on order will not arrive before July 15.
I don't know if this simplex oil switch system the engine uses can be converted to allow a oil pressure reader to attached to it .
Any info on where to get online a suitable not to expensive oil pressure reader with suitable adapter connection solutions that are the comparable with the Yanmars engine blocks metric thread system appreciated.
My basic plan is as before once the exhaust system water problem is sorted assume the engine will work
if I oil it all up again
I will start with trying to remove the oil and water mix that remains in engine with filling the oil cap first with diesel
oil and then extract the diesel oil back out by the dip stick.
hopefully this diesel oil will wash the engine clean of oil and water mix that hangs around the valves and other oil channels . Then once that now contaminated with water and diesel oil mix is removed from engine I then put in the normal 10 SAE ,40 oil in for the lubricating system .
Then I spin the engine a few turns with the stop engine engaged to drag oil up to to all the engine .
After that I start engine and look for any oil leaks
around the oil switch and check water systems are working .
The logic the oil comes out the sump looks as others have said not to be likely source of the oil leak .
However signs the oil comes out from the oil filter
or oil pressure switch also look be less likely
The suggestion on one post contribution that says the oil leak is more in the gear
box region looks to be most likely source of the problem.
If that is the case that would then be a engine removal
I have saved the original old oil filter and in due course will tear it apart to see if there is metal in it .
However with the water oil mix it is veryhard to see anything in that oil filter so it will be messy problem to find any metal in that mix .
I intend to sail to very desolate regions where there will probably be no resident mechanics
Hopefully there will be lots of fish
and bird life and seals
to eat .
Because of lack of civilisation support and supermarket It is best to learn to fix my own engine
So for now I will keep to do my own repairs
as much as I can before I have to call in a mechanic
to sort the mess out .
Its all part of the engine fix learning
My sailing abilities are OK done lots of ocean stuff but mostly used outboards for my own boats or crewed on boats that had very new inboard engines that never needed any big work
to get them going other than put clean fuel
I don't want to break the engine but I might choose to replace it with the Yanmar 9 HP version
The 9 hp is more economical on fuel
at the ~ 6 HP I would normally use
I calculate its about ~6 HP to go at speeds of about ~ 4 knots in calm seas as the most economical best cruising speed.
a 12 x 9 is better suited for the 9 HP engines .
That prop is over powered with the 13 HP engine
Also data sheets
suggests the 13 hp uses best I can tell nearly double the fuel for the same ~6 HP outputs compared to 9 HP doing 4 knots
The only advantage the bigger 13 HP had is the ability to give some extra charging
ability for the 80 amp alternator
and still drive the boat at 4 knots
With the 9 HP engine it can become the requirement to go into neutral to divert enough HP to alternator
Easy to do a anchor
when topping up battery's but can be messy if done at sea
When there is a need for engine for travel and engine for altanator power at the same time in a situation where battery
is very depleted then 9 hp can bog down .The battery
demanding recharging at north of 60 amps or about 2.5 HP extra load on engine can become a issue for 9 HP engine to cope with the demands
So I think if I extract the engine to fix the oil leak it will become a engine swap episode as fuel economy on the ocean is my preference .
The big plus of the 9 HP is the engine bay has space for it and the bigger 2ym15 is very squashed into that same space so makes repairs
very hard to do .
Thanks for all the inputs keep you informed as I go along.