First thing I closed the cooling
water sea cock.
I am more a weekend mechanic
for pre 1995 non electronic control cars to keep my junkers on the road and a outboard
engine repair type and and electric
engine type. So when all else fails after I tear the engines apart I get a mechanic to fix the parts
i cant fix like a broken engine block or head
skim or installing engine with the big engine hoists they have.
I sorta know my limits what takes me five days to do the mechanic will do it in less than one day.
Therefore I don't do modern electronic engines and I do not do speed fixing unless I am drifting onto the rocks.
I am not in any emergency
hurry before September and if needed will just opt to get a tow out into the ocean and set sail without engine in September if needed.
Back to solar
panel and candles are if necessary .
There has been two oil changes since the deep bilge water event. If water came in with the deep bilge water event unless it stayed at bottom of the oil sump for several hours engine run i suspect I would have seen milky engine oil before that
My Guess is there was rapid recent water to oil mix and something like elbow
mixxer or head gasket
would do that.
However maybe water stays at bottom of oil sump during engine runs open to that idea and it came through crankshaft seals
. If so how to get at the crank shaft seals especially the rear crank shaft seal
with the gear
box in the way ???
bottle did not change in the bilge water event but has now changed after the oily water event . That is something I have to look into why it did that going from half full to 20% overfull
I checked the gear
box oil it seems clean no indication of water but way overfilled with oil possibly over 200%
I will look to extract the excess oil hopefully gearbox
is not half water half oil .
I don't think there is water ingress and I suspect the owner before overfilled the gear box.
engines it seems share the oil from engine sump with gear box but I don't see any pipe work
to show this is the case with this 2YM15 engine???
The cost of the elbow
is some £200 or closer to £250 delivered to Ireland
and haven't found clone type cheaper.
I know from my memory there is a clone version for some yanmars in stainless steel
but haven't found it .
Today will look the entire system to try to find water to oil links
The owner was drastic hurry to sell before boat yard fees
hit him for the sixth year I'm storage
so for cheapo cost wasn't going to be anything like a survey
just basic visual check and pay the cash.
The work schedule to do repairs
needed due to start in mid February were impacted with boat yard closure from march 15 to may 15 with the Carona virus close down . The boat had to be out of the yard in June first due to over booking for boat repairs
stacked up during yard closeure. This meant launch and go down the river to the marina when not fully checked out or incurr huge penalty costs to stay in the boat yard beyond the normal booking time of winter
The boat had been sitting possibly engine not winterized for five years but engine serviced by me and running for several hours showed no signs of problems.
Toilet valve was unluky oversight I closed it but it had broken into two parts
and let water inside through hidden crack in valve and over a day when not onboard the boat the crack opened up and slowly filled the bilges .
I was able to get dingy alongside and replace the entire through firing with new fitting when tide went out working fast .
seem to be good quality probably new replacement in furling Genoa
and good condition slab reef main sail .
The issues are the engine and the fact I am in fast flow estuary with many sand banks so its either fix the engine or get towed out as it is too risky to sail out .
A mechanic will be last resort if I have to extract the engine from the engine bearers as it is too heavy for me to do alone
I am certain I do not know the putting the engine back in correctly for the straight lining up process is beyond my abilities so that's gonna be a mechanic if needed
I am hopefull the elbow or head gasket
are the water source into oil as I can get at them easy enough .
If its the crank shaft seals in rear or some hole in engine block I don't think I can fix that without mechanic to weld the engine block or remove engine
spent on mechanics will dent money
funds for stuff like liferafts and AIS
and other things that can allow me to go offshore
to blue water
These inboards are basically a big financial hole to throw money at until you learn to fix them before you need them when your drifting onto some shore line .
All I knew about Yanmar
before this is they are a mechanics wet dream with steel
parts that corrode cost a bomb to replace and makes boat mechanics smile as money goes cha ching for repairs .