Ding like bell sound like pinking from diesel Yanmar 2M15 2006 version after low oi

[Uncle Bob]

Hi, could the sound you are hearing be a loose spring or two on the drive plate that connects the gearbox input shaft to the flywheel?
Just a thought.

[skipperpete]

Thank you for the more precise details regarding your 2ym problems. Here’s a screen shot of the possible source of your oil leak, the low oil pressure switch. It’s about where you suggest the oil is coming from and is the only contender likely to dump that much oil in the bilge (the rear crankshaft oil seal is contestant #2). The oil filter might be worth investigation too❗️
The pic is a 3YM but should have the same oil switch location as your 2YM.

[Compass790]

I had one of those do precisely what Skipperpete is suggesting on my 'old Toyota car,
It was leaking not at your rate but quite a bit. Now the Toyota sports a yanmar oil pressure switch as I got one off a used block.
I'd swap it out for any ( I assume ) 1/8 BSP oil pressure switch. A Japanese car wrecker should have oodles or any chain car parts store.
Still think you want to test that your oil pressure is ok.
The thread tape trick wont work if the oil pressure switch is leaking out of the moulded bit as my Toyotas was.
Easy & cheap to swap it out.

[bouncycastle]

@ skipperpete

Today I will try to see if your theory the alternator fan is the culprit

The fan with thin metal might at certain speeds cause singing or bending and plucking the pinging sound

I can't think of any other thin metal other than something horrible like spun rod or spun main bearing able to make any ding sounds.

In the confusion to let the alternator belt go more loose by a tad this might have introduced some new element and the previous test taking out the alternator belt was to check it wasn't the water pump belt that was the source of screeching or wasn't some metal to metal friction from seized piston rings or similar but not to check for ping sound that came after.

Will try to see if the oil pressure switch is the oil leak source its in very hard to reach region but makes the most since would drip down to the sump and can dump oil quickly.If so I will order a new one in case its threads or gaskets or similar are knackered

You do seem to know your marine engines if we meet up your going to get a few beers for sure

@ uncle

Interesting idea will look that idea gear clutch prop shaft loose springs region as don't want those regions coming apart .

I have saved in the past car engines when new noise started going to experts on that make of car and they fixed the problem easily as they knew the noise which were important replaced the offending part before catotrosfic failures would wreck the engine or hears completely .

There are often no cheap new rattles pinking ticking or other weird noises in engines so I always try to identify the new noises and try save the engine .




Let u know later will try to make film of sound not good at th at film stuff keep getting banned on you tube for my anti communist EU views and anti vaccine stuff so will use another system like Brighton or similar

Boats name is "Vax Refusnik " and my get out of dodge escape route if they bring in Bill Gates horrible nasty compulsory mark of the beast covert 19 vaccines at gun point and maybe foresight in December 2019 to get more ocean ready craft than my other 1972 Sabre 27 foot project craft now stockpiled with enough food water fuel etc to go AWOL

Thanks guys for all the inputs

Dermot

[bouncycastle]

On the subject to replace the oil pressure system sensor I came across this article where clones versions for Yanmar can be USA threads and create choas with the Yanmar metric threads.

Adapters can solve these issues but if a Yanmar is fitted with incomparable threads this article below explains the end results from seasoned sailor on 39 ft boat that found out the hard way.

This information applies also to temperature and other sensors USA and metric threads look very similar but are not and can create a mess.

I have to look is this the nature of my problem it seems that Yanmar oil pressure sensors are frequently replacement property item $100 plus and many cheaper clones are fitted with incompatibility issue from threads to gaskets to electronic problems .
My boat was at one time in the USA sometime between 1969 to 2013 and may have got USA threaded parts


Upgrading Yanmar oil pressure gauge and sender - Ocean Navigator - October 2011

Dermot

[skipperpete]

Don’t replace the low oil switch unless you establish that its leaking. Get a small plastic bag and fit it over the sender, maybe ziptie it or put a rubber band around the bag where the threads go into the block. Run the engine and if you get a bag of oil you’ve found the culprit without getting more oil in the bilge. The plastic bag trick also works fairly well for oil filter changes...... loosen the filter till its easy to turn, bag it as best you can and spin it off into the bag.
Pete.

[Compass790]

what skipperpete said +
what you want if you have an NPT oil pressure switch is one of these

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...archweb201603_

[bouncycastle]

Thanks everybody I can confirm the ping noise is from alternator one problem less and short film showing the ping noise on the way when i can upload it .

So now the problem is to sort the leak and the advice needed on that issue and sources to buy replacement sensors that are cheaper than Yanmar parts and are not USA thread types.

@ skipperpete
Good plastic bag info oil is such messy stuff

@ compass790
Thanks a bit confused the term NPT?? Versus other types of oil pressure switch

[a64pilot]

NPT is “National Pipe Thread” the US plumbing standard, it’s an interference fit so it won’t leak.
BSP is “British Standard Pipe” close but different than NPT, sort of like Whitworth tools if you have ever used them.
There are adapters available. My Yanmar is BSP, I tapped the hole to NPT, but if I had known I would have used an adapter. NPT is very, very common, BSP would be be tough to find, maybe Yanmar does it to sell switches?

Glad to hear you found your bell

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

......
There are adapters available. My Yanmar is BSP, I tapped the hole to NPT, but if I had known I would have used an adapter. NPT is very, very common, BSP would be be tough to find, maybe Yanmar does it to sell switches?

Glad to hear you found your bell

Haha...Yanmar uses BSP because it is a Japanese company and the standard in Japan is JIS (Japanese Industrial Standards).

Japanese (JIS) tapered and parallel threads are identical to British standard pipe threads. The only difference is that parallel JIS threads have a 30° seat on the male end, and a 30° flared seat on the female ends. JIS tapered threads are identical to BSPT threads. See https://www.adaptall.com/info-tutori...sh-threads.php


Also https://www.ryco.com.au/technical/th...n/jis-threads/

NPT is a little known thread type popular in some country that still uses inches and fractions

()

[bouncycastle]

Skip the first 4.5 minutes that's is intro to engine type and the nature of problem then engine ring sound at five minutes

https://www.brighteon.com/3d871242-1...7-7223350393a0

[Compass790]

NPT is a little known thread type popular in some country that still uses inches and fractions

()[/QUOTE]

Nice attempt at rotating the crap Wotname

Surprised no bites

[bouncycastle]

€
just coming back from marine shop where I got new oil filter and borrowed my cousin's endoscope

Will run tests to see if there is high metal wear in oil

The 2ym15 has only got a oil pressure switch OM part that triggers alarm only and cost ~€ 19.00 about ~$22 or ~£ 16 so will buy it if the original is broken in some way

It will be several days to update

[Compass790]

We should have said post a vid straight away as the noise doesn't sound like an oil starvation damage noise.
Your engine sounds pretty good, I think you have dodged a bullet. I'd fix the oil leak & if exhaust doesn't smoke you should be ok.
I'd still want to check oil pressure but suspect it will be ok
Pretty cheap for a Yanmar part.

[bouncycastle]

Today I went to tackle the removal of oil from engine replace the oil and oil filter and it all went pear shaped now water is in the oil

First I checked the oil level with the dip stick and found that the oil had somehow increased in level from about 4/5 the level to being about 20% over the maxuim level

The engine had not been run for nearly a week so I assumed that either Diesel fuel had somehow leaked into engine or high up oil in engine had dropped down and running the engine would reduce the oil level.

I dipped the stick several times to confirm level and smelled the oil to see if had diesel fuel smell. The oil was very clean nearly no colour as it had only been in engine running about one hour run time and no diesel odour I could smell


I ran the engine for ten minutes to warm the oil up and stopped engine

I connected up the oil suction pump and took all the oil out.
Then as I stopped the oil suction there was evidence o very milky oil to be seen .

I recantened the oil into clear can and it was all very milky oil
I estimate that some ~1/2 litre of water was now in the engine oil of about ~2.5 liters of engine oil

The Yanmars are known to have corrosion in elbow and other pipes that can allow water to enter engine.

I am open to any suggestions that can say which is the most likely source of water eg head gasket exhaust elbow etc

When I started engine it was as always slow to start about 10 seconds to start as it drags fuel into engine.
The engine nearly started and then it suddenly stopped like it hydro locked from I thought too much fuel . I turned key again and it started after ten seconds..

The engine ran smoothly for some ten minutes before I stopped it

Last night there was choppy water one foot waves hitting the stern so I don't know if water went up the exhaust pipe system

Two weeks ago the toilet valve broke and when in returned to boat a few hours later some large amounts of water had come in the boat and was 6 inches above the floor boards and up to the level of the oil sump.

I bailed out boat repaired the broken valve and checked the engine and when all was dry ran it for few hours and oil checks showed no water ingress

Then the next week ran the engine for about one hour and that was the time all the oil fell out of engine

The next day I filled up the oil ran the engine for a hour and oil fell out out again

I filled up the oil again and ran engine several times mostly about 20 minutes and no indications of where there was a oil leak and no signs of milky oil

I waited week for parts and today went to drain out oil and now it milky oil ???

Confused

Thanks a head for any inputs

Dermot