Diesel Engine - Sea Foam and Marvel Mystery oil

[Secondshift]

Originally Posted by Jetx

EDIT: And as stated above, DO NOT put Sea Foam in the filter bowl! It’s mostly Naptha or white gas, so you’d be putting a much more volatile fuel directly into a compression-ignition engine. Good chance something will go bang in a very expensive manner. It’s fine to use Sea Foam mixed in the fuel tank at the recommended doses, but don’t run straight sea foam in a diesel.

I believe you're incorrect about the Seafoam.

Don't believe they'd survive the lawsuits otherwise.

Their label specifies "when priming diesel fuel filters" and their website outlines the process

https://seafoamworks.com/sea-foam-of...emoving-parts/

Planning on doing the same. I'll be sure to post if it goes "BOOM"

They do have a separate product for gas engines only.

Regards

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by Secondshift

I believe you're incorrect about the Seafoam.

Don't believe they'd survive the lawsuits otherwise.

Their label specifies "when priming diesel fuel filters" and their website outlines the process

https://seafoamworks.com/sea-foam-of...emoving-parts/

Planning on doing the same. I'll be sure to post if it goes "BOOM"

They do have a separate product for gas engines only.

Regards

I also posted not to do it, I stand corrected - thanks!

(Does this mean I shouldn't have spent $240 to get my 40 y/o injectors rebuilt? )

[MatthLE]

Hello;

Modern oils are VERY GOOD, they need no enhancements to perform their job. They are excellent at preventing metal to metal contact and isolating any contaminants. Anything you add can easily interfere with the additives already in the oil and degrade their efficacy. A 5 hour loaded run on new oil at normal temps followed by complete change of oil and filters is the absolute best way to accomplish your goals.

Respectfully
Lem

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by MatthLE

Hello;

Modern oils are VERY GOOD, they need no enhancements to perform their job. They are excellent at preventing metal to metal contact and isolating any contaminants. Anything you add can easily interfere with the additives already in the oil and degrade their efficacy. A 5 hour loaded run on new oil at normal temps followed by complete change of oil and filters is the absolute best way to accomplish your goals.

Respectfully
Lem

I would go even further and say they're better than very good, they're excellent!, but they aren't designed to clean old engines that have been running old oils and fuels for decades.

As to 'interfere(ing) with the additives already in the oil and degrade their efficacy' - mmmmm, maybe. And I certainly wouldn't advocate running it all the time. But in the short term, to mitigate an issue? I don't see a problem with it.

[OutOfControl]

Info from the Sea Foam MSDS page

Hydrocarbon blend* Blend < 95%
Isopropanol 67-63-0 < 25%

It is commonly thought to be 65% Diesel fuel, 25-30% Naptha and 5-10% Isopropyl Alcohol(Iso-Heet)

It is very easy to make yourself and much cheaper.

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by OutOfControl

Info from the Sea Foam MSDS page

Hydrocarbon blend* Blend < 95%
Isopropanol 67-63-0 < 25%

It is commonly thought to be 65% Diesel fuel, 25-30% Naptha and 5-10% Isopropyl Alcohol(Iso-Heet)

It is very easy to make yourself and much cheaper.

Key words: commonly thought to be...

It's 50 bucks a gallon at the local farm supply store. Why would you go through the trouble, and where in hell do you get naptha anyway?

[OutOfControl]

Key words: commonly thought to be...

It's 50 bucks a gallon at the local farm supply store. Why would you go through the trouble, and where in hell do you get naptha anyway?


My recipe;

1/2 gallon Diesel fuel
1 quart VmP Naptha, available at most hardware stores similar to paint thinner
12 oz. Iso Heet, used to remove water from fuel tank

Roughly cost $12 US for almost a gallon.
Been making and using it for over 10 years on my truck, car and 2 stroke outboard motor.

A chemist can break down the formula by using clues in the companies MSDS filing. It may not be exactly the same but the 3 components are listed in the MSDS and the percentages can be derived using the viscosity, color, solubility, and specific gravity from the same filing.

[garyfdl]

Originally Posted by OutOfControl

Key words: commonly thought to be...

It's 50 bucks a gallon at the local farm supply store. Why would you go through the trouble, and where in hell do you get naptha anyway?


My recipe;

1/2 gallon Diesel fuel
1 quart VmP Naptha, available at most hardware stores similar to paint thinner
12 oz. Iso Heet, used to remove water from fuel tank

Roughly cost $12 US for almost a gallon.
Been making and using it for over 10 years on my truck, car and 2 stroke outboard motor.

A chemist can break down the formula by using clues in the companies MSDS filing. It may not be exactly the same but the 3 components are listed in the MSDS and the percentages can be derived using the viscosity, color, solubility, and specific gravity from the same filing.

Seriously... And what's your time worth?

But... OK

HEY EVERYBODY!
There's this guy on the internet? Posts under a pseudonym on a sailing forum? He says he's cracked Sea-Foam's secret formula! And he's POSTED PUBLICLY IT ON THE FORUM! Mixes it right up in the kitchen sink! Says hes been using this stuff for 10 YEARS! Let's all go out and do what he did and see if he's right. We might be able to save BIG MONEY!!! (not including the time it takes to make it).

Ummmm - NO.

Thanks, but no thanks.

[Jetx]

Originally Posted by Secondshift

I believe you're incorrect about the Seafoam.

Don't believe they'd survive the lawsuits otherwise.

Their label specifies "when priming diesel fuel filters" and their website outlines the process

https://seafoamworks.com/sea-foam-of...emoving-parts/

Planning on doing the same. I'll be sure to post if it goes "BOOM"

They do have a separate product for gas engines only.

Regards

I stand corrected as well. Learn something new every day!

[Captain Graham]

Originally Posted by Captain Graham

This year I purchased a 1980 Watkins 27 with a Westerbeke 20B TWO 18HP Engine.

The PO did change the oil ever year just before winter storage but he did not run the engine for more then 15 mins to get in and out of his slip.
He owned her for 9 years.

I will be moving her 100 miles to my marina in a few weeks and looking to run the diesel engine for about 5 hours straight to burn off some of the carbon buildup and loosen some of the sludge in the oil.

I was thinking I would
1. Change the oil / oil filter and also put the recommended about to MMO into the oil.
2. Start the engine and let it warm up.
3. Shut down the engine and remove the external fuel filter.
4. Check the filter to see the fuel has any fuel bug issues.
5. Fill the fuel filter about 1/3 with Sea Foam.
6. Start the engine again and run for 1-2 mins to get the sea foam into the injectors and cylinders
7. Put the recommended amount of Sea Foam into the fuel tank.
8. The next day start the engine and do the 100 mile trip with 5 hours of running the engine at 2,500 RPMs (cruising speed)
9. Once I arrive change the oil and see if any sludge is removed.

What do you think of my plan?

PS Before the trip I will
1. Back flush the Raw water system
2. Flush and replace the coolant.
3. Opening up the end cap on the heat exchange and look for any broken off impeller blades.
4. Check all the raw water hoses for broken impeller blades.
5. Replace the impeller.
6. Install new Zinc
7. New Transmission fluid.
8. Install new external and engine mounted fuel filters
9. Replace the thermostat.

I have changed my plan a little.
I will only be using Sea Foam because I already have it and it can be used in both the fuel and engine oil.
I will also be keeping a close eye on the engine temp and oil pressure every time the engine is running.

The new plan.
1. Replace both fuel filters with no sea foam in the fuel yet.

2. The current engine oil looks very good but I will still replace it.
Take out a little oil and add the recommended amount of Sea Foam not Marvel Mystery Oil.
Start the engine and run it for 1-2 hours and get the oil with Sea Foam working.

3. Change the oil / oil filter again with recommended amount of sea foam added to the oil.

4. Check to see if the diesel fuel in the tank is good or bad.
I do not expect any issues because the fuel tank is full and the PO treated the fuel at the end of last season, but I want to make sure.
At this point the engine has been running for 1-2 hours with new fuel filter.
I will remove the external fuel filter and check for contamination.
IE water, fuel bog etc.
If I find any issues I will drain the tank and replace with new fuel.

5. Hot soak the engine with sea foam.
Put the recommended about of sea foam into the 19 gal fuel tank.
Start the engine and let it warm up.
Shut down the engine and open up the external fuel filter.
Fill the fuel filter with sea foam.
Start the engine again and run for 1-2 mins to get the sea foam into the injectors and cylinders
Shut down the engine and let it hot soak for 10 mins
Add the recommended about of sea foam to the fuel tank.
Start the engine and run it under load for 30 mins to 1 hour.

6. Day of the 100 mile trip
Run the engine for 5 hours at 2,500 RPMs (cruising speed)

7. End of the 100 mile trip
Warm up the engine and replace the oil and filter again no sea foam.

PS Yesterday spent about 2 hours working on the engine and found the heat exchanger is in good shape. No buildup and no bits of impeller found.
Not surprising because the boat is in fresh water (Lake Erie)

[George DuBose]

I have used Marvel Mystery Oil in my cars for years. One caveat, if your engine is old and you add MMO to the engine oil, it can do such a great job cleaning the oil passageways, that old seals that are clogged with years of crud, can be so clean that they leak. It really does work to free sticking rings. It can also be added to the fuel.

Seafoam is also great. The first time I used it in my diesel tank and ran the engine for several hours through Amsterdam's canal to IJmuiden, when I next started the engine, it started much easier. I add a can of Seafoam about every 100 hours and I think my Yanmar loves it.

These products DO WORK.

[OutOfControl]

Originally Posted by garyfdl

Seriously... And what's your time worth?

But... OK

HEY EVERYBODY!
There's this guy on the internet? Posts under a pseudonym on a sailing forum? He says he's cracked Sea-Foam's secret formula! And he's POSTED PUBLICLY IT ON THE FORUM! Mixes it right up in the kitchen sink! Says hes been using this stuff for 10 YEARS! Let's all go out and do what he did and see if he's right. We might be able to save BIG MONEY!!! (not including the time it takes to make it).

Ummmm - NO.

Thanks, but no thanks.

Relax garyfdl,
I never said I cracked the secret formula. I was just sharing my recipe.
Also, I prefer to use a one gallon gas container to mix it up which also makes it easier to pour.
It actually takes less time to make than it did for you to post your comment

[rwidman]

I would suggest that if it's not broken, don't try to fix it.

Assuming that the engine runs as it should, I would drive the boat to that new marina and be prepared to change the oil and filter within a few minutes of arriving. Use a quality diesel rated oil of the viscosity recommended by the manufacturer.

Having spare fuel filters along is a safety precaution.

I would not trust a product named "Mystery" anything and I would not fill my fuel filter with anything but fresh diesel fuel.

[Wotname]

Fun fact - MMO is approved for use (and maybe even mandated) for the constant speed unit (CSU) of a Beechcraft King Air. Being as the CSU controls the propeller, it can't be all bad!

[MicHughV]

yes to all the above.....being a new boat (to you).....diesel engines require very little....clean fuel and clean oil....

from experience, I can tell you that the inside of a fuel tank is not a very friendly place...
I have taken diesel fuel tanks apart, and invariably, the bottom is coated with a black slimy substance.....the reasons for this is many and varied. For this reason, most diesel fuel tank intake lines are generally set at 1-2" above the bottom of the tank so as not to suck this detritus up. Sucking out the old fuel does not really help if you can't also clean the rest of it, which would require opening the fuel tank inspection plates.

The best (and simplest) tool to ensure clean fuel is to mount a see-thru' diesel fuel/water separator filter between the engine and the tank. This way you can visually check the filter for water and other tainted fuel. Racor makes a very good one...the 500fg model.....they run about $150-200....and worth every dime...you'll have to bleed the system after you install this, but it is a relatively simple procedure.

Your engine is unlikely to burn much more than 1/3-1/2 gal/hour at cruising rpm...so in a 100 mile trip....assuming a 5 knot speed....you might burn 10 gallons of diesel...that's not very much....but it's likely to be a 2 day trip for you....if all else fails, you still have sail power...