Coolant leak Volvo 2003 turbo

[pequod]

I just looked at a boat today that has a 2003 Turbo installed. When I went to check the bilge, I saw radiator fluid. I went back and checked the expansion tank and saw that the coolant was at the max level.

My guess is that the coolant was recently topped off and on the way back from the diesel shop the system expelled the excess into the bilge. I could not however find any sign of recent leaks from the expansion tank or on the engine. Question is if my hypothesis is correct, where would the coolant expel from exactly? Engine has 2200 hours on it and is original from 1989. It also has two alternators which I have never seen before, but that is perhaps another thread...

Nick

[Paul L]

The coolant side of that engine is notorious for leaky connections on the hard pipes between the freshwater pump and around the heat exchanger. With new rubber seals and some artful installation most of the leaks can be stemmed.

When you change the coolant on the engine it is supposed to be self bleeding. It can take awhile to fill and bleed. If you add coolant to the expansion tank while the engine is running it can be shakey enough to cause spills. You might ask the seller why the coolant was changed.

[Kokanee]

I had a similar problem recently.

It turned out to be water leaking into the coolant circuit from my hot water tank heating coil, and then overflowing the coolant expansion tank.

[pequod]

Thanks for the replies. I will most likely put an offer in on this boat. I will opt for an engine survey as well. Cheap insurance I think. Hopefully the coolant issue is a simple fix and now I know 2 areas to focus on.

The boat does have a hot water tank plumbed into the engine as well. How'd you fix this Kokanee? Did you end up replacing the tank?


Nick

[Paul L]

There's a decent search on CF that will find many discussions on the 2003.

[sailon46]

Pequod, check the notorious freeze plugs in the vicinity of the turbo, they sometimes leak and unless you are checking with the engine running and a flash light to follow the drippings back to the origin you will never detect them.
For what its worth
Ernie on the Mary Jane

[Scout 30]

Here's the biggest problem with this motor. There's no zinc. As a result the oil cooler which is brass & aluminum dissolves. This will result in a coolant and/or oil leak. You can't see it because it's behind the heat exchanger which is built of the same materials & can also suffer from the same corrosion although this appears to be rarer. The turbo charger also tends to rust on the inside making rebuilding difficult or impossible. It's important that the rubber washers are replaced every time you take any part of the coolant system apart because they don't reseal well. Another problem is the intake silencer which has a plastic housing with a foam interior that can't be changed. You have to replace the whole thing & if you don't parts or all of the foam can be sucked into the turbo charger. Also be sure & check the motor mounts on the starboard side.

I may have misspoken when I said the lack of a zinc is the biggest problem with this engine. The biggest problem is the price of parts. The oil cooler is more the $1,700 & the turbo charger & heat exchanger are both around $3,000. The good news is that the motor itself is reliable & parts are available. An aftermarket oil cooler is usually installed although it does require some ingenuity.

[Vasco]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

Here's the biggest problem with this motor. There's no zinc. As a result the oil cooler which is brass & aluminum dissolves. This will result in a coolant and/or oil leak. You can't see it because it's behind the heat exchanger which is built of the same materials & can also suffer from the same corrosion although this appears to be rarer. The turbo charger also tends to rust on the inside making rebuilding difficult or impossible. It's important that the rubber washers are replaced every time you take any part of the coolant system apart because they don't reseal well. Another problem is the intake silencer which has a plastic housing with a foam interior that can't be changed. You have to replace the whole thing & if you don't parts or all of the foam can be sucked into the turbo charger. Also be sure & check the motor mounts on the starboard side.

I may have misspoken when I said the lack of a zinc is the biggest problem with this engine. The biggest problem is the price of parts. The oil cooler is more the $1,700 & the turbo charger & heat exchanger are both around $3,000. The good news is that the motor itself is reliable & parts are available. An aftermarket oil cooler is usually installed although it does require some ingenuity.

My 2003 had a pencil zinc in the left (facing flywheel). It was raw water cooled so may have been different but I think all the 2000 series had these pencil zincs.

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by Vasco

My 2003 had a pencil zinc in the left (facing flywheel). It was raw water cooled so may have been different but I think all the 2000 series had these pencil zincs.

In the 2000 series the raw water cooled motors have a pencil zinc but the fresh water cooled motors do not.

[coastalexplorer]

Hello.

To all owners of 2000 series Volvo Penta Diesel engines what ever the size. single cylinder, twin, three cylinder or T3. The inherent spline shaft of the MS2B transmission to Damper failure problem has been solved. Contact Barbara Mark of Next Wave marine on Vancouver's Island, British Columbia for details. The solution can be installed with simple tools no machining of parts required.

I am NOT the sales rep for this! I just happen to own the prototype.

You can download the video using this link: https://www.dropbox.com/s/eixuwb7c85...drive.mp4?dl=0


Barbara Mark
NextWave Marine Systems Inc.,
5-3125 Van Horne Road,
Qualicum Beach. BC Canada
V9K2R3
email: bmark@suredrivemarine.com
NextWave Marine Systems Inc.
250 752 1790 Telephone
250 752 2791 Fax

[DrDelmas]

You might have a faulty head gasket, causing over pressure in the system due to exaust has from the cylinders. Get a pressure tester and check out the system

[Kokanee]

Originally Posted by pequod

T

The boat does have a hot water tank plumbed into the engine as well. How'd you fix this Kokanee? Did you end up replacing the tank?


Nick

Nick,
I haven't replaced the hot water tank yet, I've got valves to isolate & bypass the coolant flow to/from the tank. That sorted out the problem temporarily.
I'll be pulling it out soon to repair or replace.

[jamhass]

I have the 2003T, 4800 hours and after 2 HX and Oil Cooler changes at great expense, went with inexpensive after-market for both, in Cu-Ni. Note that complete HX and OC may be no longer available. I mounted both on a nearby bulkhead and plumbed with appropriately reinforced hoses. Only significant mod required was to drill and tap the main inlet boss on the coolant pump to take a 1/2 NPT hose adapter. Other minor mods involved simply cutting existing Cu cooling lines and replacing the oil line banjos at the block.

If you need additional info, suppliers, etc PM me.