Botched a Simple Fuel Filter Change

[OloteleMtn]

To synopsize the thread on squeeze bulb primers......yes, no, maybe. I have one on my boat, it makes like much simpler. When they get old, they can split and let air in/fuel out, either of which aren't good, so check them regularly.
Chotu, good on ya mate!

[Chotu]

I did it a convoluted way, because I didn’t have the right fitting to put in a fuel bulb. Ha ha.

1) removed fuel supply line from the engine manual pump

2) closed Racor with new filter inside, all air and no diesel in Racor bowl

3) used my oil evacuation suction pump to pull fuel through to the supply line removed from the manual pump on engine

4) reattached the supply line to the manual pump

5) cracked open bleed screw on secondary engine mounted filters

6) used electric pump to push fuel to bleed screw now that the Racor was full enough to let it move diesel from the tank

7) used manual pump on engine to get last bits of air out. It’s better because it provides a more laminar, less turbulent flow

8) close bleed screw

9) took spilled diesel from bleed screw procedure and topped off the Racor

Convoluted, but effective.

The valves I have that are highly complex and unlabeled are part of a fuel polishing system and instant failover to a second Racor if your primary gets plugged up underway. There is no connection between this system and the generator, which has its own Racor and tank pickup.

It’s one hell of a boat, really. Given the thorough documentation, I probably have a diagram somewhere in the ship’s papers. The boat still has her original plans from Gulfstar aboard.

[pcmm]

Originally Posted by George DuBose

While we are on the subject of bleeding, I became so frustrated trying to use the lever on the engine fuel pump that I installed a squeeze bulb in the fuel line between the primary filter and the fuel tank.

While this makes it very simple to pump the fuel up to the last bleed screw, I am wondering if the squeeze bulb is going to get along with diesel fuel.

Any thoughts?

George

I put a primer bulb in my setup 4 years ago when I repowered. I've had no issue (though I do have a spare in my kit, just in case it decides to perish on me). The primer bulb makes changing filters in the racor really simple.

[onestepcsy37]

being new to the perkins 4-108 i changed the engine mounted fuel filter without noticing exactly how it came apart. seemed so obvious when i put the new filter in



the expensive mechanic i eventually called came by and the first question he asked me was had i changed the fuel filter. yes. problem solved. the obvious way to put it together is the wrong way. he fixed that problem in a few minutes and, since i was paying him by the hour, he spent the rest of his time going over the engine and showing me all the maintenance points and the all important bleeding operation. and on a 4-108 it IS an operation. three bleed points, each requiring a different size wrench.


i eventually downsized that operation by installing an electric fuel pump.

[Capt Ben]

In lieu of an electric pump to help get the fuel to the primary, my Racor has a manual pump built into it. It’s utilized by loosening a plastic gear shaped knob at the top of the filter assembly which then enables me to lift this knob up and down to manually fill the primary filter bowl. When changing filters, I close my fuel shut off at the tank, drain then remove filter, if I have some diesel aboard I’ll prefix the filter chamber which what I can, then I open the fuel shut off at the tank, unscrew and pump the primary Racor fill until its has pressure. Finally, I open the bleed screw on the engine secondary filter, pump a bit more with the Racor manual pump, then close and lock that and proceed with manual engine mounted lever style pump till I get some fuel out of the bleed screw. Close bleed screw and start the engine. Usually, I do not need to crack any injector nuts to finalize bleeding and the engine will bleed itself (might sputter for a moment or two).

[contrail]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

There was recently a thread on this very subject. The responses, as usual, ranged from OMG, ya gonna die to reasoned stories from folks who had been using such a bulb for years without issues (I'm one of those).

If you are a glutton for punishment, a quick search will reveal the thread in all its gory glory, and you can make your own interpretation of the evidence.

Jim

Along the same lines, in my old boat, I removed the oil pan (which I had determined was thick enough, many aren't) and drilled and tapped for a fitting. I mounted a simple on/off valve, from which I ran a permanently mounted fuel hose with bulb. It took me roughly 40 seconds to pump out ALL the engine oil, into a milk bottle. Made oil changes very easy and not messy, and thus more frequent. When not in use, the valve was closed, the hose capped, and led up above the engine. The only problem was to make sure the pan was thick enough to thread a fitting. Some engines now come with something similar, but they don't always work that well.

[ejjawhite]

Try YouTube for your particular application.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by ejjawhite

Try YouTube for your particular application.

Great advice!

Please point me to the video for a 1985 50’ Gulfstar sailmaster with 4 Racors 3(qty) 2-way valves, electric and manual fuel pumps, customized fuel polishing and filtering system and a Perkins 6.354 engine.

Somehow, I wasn’t able to find this video.

[Shaneesprit]

Looking at the mess - I really recommend you bite the built and remove all of the filters, without reusing any of the scum/diesel from the filters and bleed throughly from the beginning up to the Engine, in a Diesel system you should never be able to see the dirt, and Scum if you can, you need to consider how clean your tank is.

[Chotu]

Please refer to post 28 from June 14th when everything was finished.


https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ml#post3163905

[Dalestr]

The 'turbine' series filters by Racor are not bleedable, unlike most primary filters. You should get these filled near the top before sealing up the lid. Get the level at or above the top of the filter element when feasible. There is a video out there that does not attempt this on a 500 Racor filter change and that is errant. A lot of air can remain and then get pulled into the fuel stream when the boat is in a seaway. Consider also, when routinely draining a filter bowl that air is displacing most of the fuel draining out.
The fuel source might be a separate jug, gravity-fed from the tank (in some cases), provided by a pump between it and the tank or lastly, by the off-beat but useful method described by Thumbs Up (I'd use a dinghy pump or small hand pump gently). An upstream fuel primer pump can be a quality OB primer bulb. Racor sells a separate palm-press primer pump that is not well known. An electric pump between tank and filter requires a basic filter for itself, on its inlet, and there are many other considerations and methods for use of these as primers. Primary filter units like the spin-on 200 and 400 series with integral primer pumps have this problem already covered and so are commonly used if not entirely loved.
Getting fuel to flow into the filter was your main challenge and many stock installations don't have this planned out. Best to push rather than trying to pull fuel/air mix through a fuel system and that is a requirement for the typical old fashioned bleeding of air. Many modern engines now have self-bleeding properties that may be a consideration.

[JBsurfin]

Originally Posted by chris mac

Fill a small bottle with clean diesel. Use it to top off the racor filter housing before putting the lid on.then use the manual pump to the inline filter to bleed any air bubbles.

That's how I was taught..

[Idlegreg]

I'm with Thumbs Up and Dalestr - on my system I push the fuel through by pressurizing the tank using the tank vent line. This seems to provide a really nice smooth bubble free flow of fuel and very little pressure will allow me to go through venting each part of the system without having to go back and pump more.



I am lucky in that my old boat has a rather crude vent line which I can detach then push on a short length of rubber pipe that I keep with the tools. After that a cheap Airbed pump that came with my folding kayak does the trick. Maybe less easy on a bigger system, I have not tried.


My plan is to add a 'T' with valve in the tank vent line so it becomes a tool free job. It really does seem to work well if you can pressurize the tank and bleeding is almost a pleasure (except it is crazy we are still sold engines which spew fuel in the bilge when we bleed them - it would be so easy for the makers to have bleed points that fed into tubes which could be directed into containers!)


http://i.ebayimg.com/images/i/181823...-1/s-l1000.jpg