Atomic 4 (gasoline) Engine

[gulfislandfred]

you may be able to rebuild that water pump, or source it from another seller.



Get the brand and model, and google it, or contact the manufacturer directly.
See if seals and bearings are available.


You can add an outboard bracket (get the good one, rated for 20 hp) and a 4 stroke Yamaha or Tohatsu outboard, that has electric start and battery charging, If the A4 fails.

[djblizzard]

Originally Posted by newhaul

The a4 is a darn good engine one thing I would sp do after you get her is to convert to electronic ignition.
Here is the best reference you will find
https://moyermarine.com
They do everything atomic A4

The electronic ignition from Indigo electronics is significantly better. It replaces the points with an optical switch and comes complete with new coil, wires and spark plugs.
Atomic 4 - Indigo Electronics, Inc.

[glcalahan]

Hello.....regarding the mast step issue. I am rebuilding a '72 P33 and am curious to hear about the 'well known mast step issue.' I guess I missed that that one. Sorry to hijack thread!

[30yearslater]

Here is the Moyer Marine drop in replacement pricing: https://moyermarine.com/rebuild-services/
This will be the route I go if mine ever gives up the ghost. Lowest cost option for a brand new engine. Out with the old, in with the new, no fuss changing engine beds, fuel tanks and assorted other stuff.

[Dave9111]

I own 10M #26. Its a 1974 model. Its on the west end of Lake Erie.
The Pearson 10M is an exceptional boat. The long water line really helps and with the 6 ft draft it is exceptionally stiff even in a stiff wind with too much sail up. It lives up to its PHRF ratings. I sail it single handed most of the time and that's not a problem.

I do a lot of engine work. The Atomic 4 is built very similar to an old tractor engine. Its stout and bone simple to work on. I put an electronic ignition conversion on my engine and replaced the coil. I have a write up on that on my website dc9.com. While I like Moyer marine and buy parts from them, they are not the only source of that kit. There are some better parts. Particularly for the coil. I just refurbed my water pump. A new impeller and gasket was $35 via Amazon. I would only replace the pump if it was worn out ( doubtful ). The impeller and gaskets that Moyer sells work fine as well. Don't use the Globe "run dry" impeller. They don't work. Removing the water pump requires removing two bolts and two hose clamps. I put a heavy blanket over the engine and lay right on it. A headlamp also helps a lot.

Regarding the life of a engine like the Atomic 4... I have a Ford 9N tractor from 1939 that still runs and I can still get parts for it. The engine is very similar to the Atomic 4. My Atomic 4 is new by comparison.

What will kill your Atomic 4 is corrosion and lack of use. Engines need to be run to maintain lubrication. If you engine is sea water cooled and you are in the ocean, convert it to freshwater cooling. That will end any internal corrosion issues. Moyer says that the mechanical fuel pump is as reliable as an electric. I still have a mechanical fuel pump and an electric onboard as a spare, in case it fails. I'm converting mine to freshwater cooling. Moyer sells kits as does Indigo Electronics. I'm rolling my own and will post the results on my dc9.com website.

Gas engines in boats was a big problem before they started selling ethanol free gas at marinas around here. But now, with the ethanol free gas, my fuel problems have ceased. I also use a very good cartridge fuel filter with a water separator. Highly recommended. The one Moyer sells is a very good filter. Don't use just a cheapo steel automotive filter unless your supply for gas is super clean (how can youtell?).

I have diesel trucks. The problem with diesels is that they are basically un-serviceable for most people. How many people feel comfortable replacing fuel injectors or purging a diesels fuel system? Not many. But with a socket set and a couple wrenches most people could replace an Atomic 4's carburetor.

The acid test for Atomic 4s is a compression test. They are easy to do and they will give you a good idea of how worn the engine is. Then if the engine is not knocking and if it has good oil pressure you likely have an engine that will last for many years.

I considered replacing my Atomic 4 with a Beta, but the cost if I did it myself is about $8000. I could replace or rebuild my Atomic 4 at least 4 times for that amount! It really makes zero sense to replace one with a Beta.

Fuel consumption:
At 6 knots my Atomic 4 burns a little less than 1 gallon per hour. No one can justify replacing a gas engine with a diesel based on fuel consumption alone. The numbers don't work.

Fuel tank:
Unless your tank has been replaced, it is under the cockpit floor. The fuel fill is in the cockpit floor (make sure the o-ring is good!). Look at the front of the engine from the cabin interior and then look beyond it. You will likely see the cylindrical 20 gallon Monel tank. It looks similar to old stainless steel. Those tanks are of very high quality. You can't get them anymore. Monel is crazy expensive. Stainless steel is much cheaper.

What else to look out for:
The 10M was equipped with an iron mast step. I have no idea why.
Check yours out. That is a common replacement. It is also common to have to trim off the bottom of the mast and make the mast step a couple inches taller to compensate.

Check the deck for soft spots around any deck penetrations. If you find a couple, they are repairable. Not a deal killer, but if you don't fix them yourself it could add substantial cost to have it repaired.

The 10M is a very good boat and often overlooked.

Dave

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by glcalahan

Hello.....regarding the mast step issue. I am rebuilding a '72 P33 and am curious to hear about the 'well known mast step issue.' I guess I missed that that one. Sorry to hijack thread!

I got the details on the mast step and the chain plate recall on the Pearson 10M from Dan Pfeiffer's Site

This is what he says about the original steel mast step. (from projects on the Home Page)

Pearson 10M Mast Step

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Dave9111

I own 10M #26. Its a 1974 model. Its on the west end of Lake Erie.
The Pearson 10M is an exceptional boat. The long water line really helps and with the 6 ft draft it is exceptionally stiff even in a stiff wind with too much sail up. It lives up to its PHRF ratings. I sail it single handed most of the time and that's not a problem.

I do a lot of engine work. The Atomic 4 is built very similar to an old tractor engine. Its stout and bone simple to work on. I put an electronic ignition conversion on my engine and replaced the coil. I have a write up on that on my website dc9.com. While I like Moyer marine and buy parts from them, they are not the only source of that kit. There are some better parts. Particularly for the coil. I just refurbed my water pump. A new impeller and gasket was $35 via Amazon. I would only replace the pump if it was worn out ( doubtful ). The impeller and gaskets that Moyer sells work fine as well. Don't use the Globe "run dry" impeller. They don't work. Removing the water pump requires removing two bolts and two hose clamps. I put a heavy blanket over the engine and lay right on it. A headlamp also helps a lot.

Regarding the life of a engine like the Atomic 4... I have a Ford 9N tractor from 1939 that still runs and I can still get parts for it. The engine is very similar to the Atomic 4. My Atomic 4 is new by comparison.

What will kill your Atomic 4 is corrosion and lack of use. Engines need to be run to maintain lubrication. If you engine is sea water cooled and you are in the ocean, convert it to freshwater cooling. That will end any internal corrosion issues. Moyer says that the mechanical fuel pump is as reliable as an electric. I still have a mechanical fuel pump and an electric onboard as a spare, in case it fails. I'm converting mine to freshwater cooling. Moyer sells kits as does Indigo Electronics. I'm rolling my own and will post the results on my dc9.com website.

Gas engines in boats was a big problem before they started selling ethanol free gas at marinas around here. But now, with the ethanol free gas, my fuel problems have ceased. I also use a very good cartridge fuel filter with a water separator. Highly recommended. The one Moyer sells is a very good filter. Don't use just a cheapo steel automotive filter unless your supply for gas is super clean (how can youtell?).

I have diesel trucks. The problem with diesels is that they are basically un-serviceable for most people. How many people feel comfortable replacing fuel injectors or purging a diesels fuel system? Not many. But with a socket set and a couple wrenches most people could replace an Atomic 4's carburetor.

The acid test for Atomic 4s is a compression test. They are easy to do and they will give you a good idea of how worn the engine is. Then if the engine is not knocking and if it has good oil pressure you likely have an engine that will last for many years.

I considered replacing my Atomic 4 with a Beta, but the cost if I did it myself is about $8000. I could replace or rebuild my Atomic 4 at least 4 times for that amount! It really makes zero sense to replace one with a Beta.

Fuel consumption:
At 6 knots my Atomic 4 burns a little less than 1 gallon per hour. No one can justify replacing a gas engine with a diesel based on fuel consumption alone. The numbers don't work.

Fuel tank:
Unless your tank has been replaced, it is under the cockpit floor. The fuel fill is in the cockpit floor (make sure the o-ring is good!). Look at the front of the engine from the cabin interior and then look beyond it. You will likely see the cylindrical 20 gallon Monel tank. It looks similar to old stainless steel. Those tanks are of very high quality. You can't get them anymore. Monel is crazy expensive. Stainless steel is much cheaper.

What else to look out for:
The 10M was equipped with an iron mast step. I have no idea why.
Check yours out. That is a common replacement. It is also common to have to trim off the bottom of the mast and make the mast step a couple inches taller to compensate.

Check the deck for soft spots around any deck penetrations. If you find a couple, they are repairable. Not a deal killer, but if you don't fix them yourself it could add substantial cost to have it repaired.

The 10M is a very good boat and often overlooked.

Dave

Dave,

Thanks for the info.

Last time I was at the boat the two bolts for the water pump were next to the sink and the hoses are hanging near where the pump used to be. Owner is having the yard replace it. I'll be doing the engine maintenance if I buy the boat. My car engines were the same as this one when I started driving with the distributor cap, plug wires, points, single coil, etc

The mast step has been replaced with an aluminum step.

The boat is s/n 112 so it has the aluminum I beams for the stern most chain plates

The boat is a little rough on deck but has no soft spots I could find. There are cracks around some stanchion bases most probably from excited racing crews but the deck is hard there.

Sails are crispy new. Present owner only day sailed the boat

It does need a few things though so I'm still thinking the purchase over plus my boat will be hard to sell and will have to be stored. We do have places here though that can store it for $110/month

And BTW, my uncle had a Ford 8N that he used to use to pull the planter with back in the day. (early 70's) I think my cousin still has it. I believe it had the four cylinder gas engine also. Back then we farmed 1000 acres. Now my cousin farms 2000 and the tractors are massive. I drove a dual back wheel Oliver to plow with back then but it had a 6 cylinder diesel. I pulled a 7 bottom plow with it and a 12' disk

Here's the link to Dan Pfeiffer's website if you've never heard of it.

P e a r s o n &nbsp&nbsp 1 0 M

Tom

[quiesence65]

We sail a 1965 Grampian Classic 31 here in Georgian Bay....original A-4! Yes, I curse the old beast from time to time.....but owned a Perkins 108 which I also cursed from time to time! The A-4 is a VERY simple engine, easy to fix and tune up.....all engines need fixing and tuning! If the boat and the price are good, do not let the A-4 hold you back!

[newhaul]

Originally Posted by Classicsailboat

The majority of your time will be motoring, so get a diesel.

how do you figure this ?
Me personally I likely put an average of 20 hours on my engine per year .( includes maintenance runs.) It is diesel but it is called a sailboat for a reason a d thomm uses his like I use mine . For sailing.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by newhaul

how do you figure this ?
Me personally I likely put an average of 20 hours on my engine per year .( includes maintenance runs.) It is diesel but it is called a sailboat for a reason a d thomm uses his like I use mine . For sailing.

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by quiesence65

We sail a 1965 Grampian Classic 31 here in Georgian Bay....original A-4! Yes, I curse the old beast from time to time.....but owned a Perkins 108 which I also cursed from time to time! The A-4 is a VERY simple engine, easy to fix and tune up.....all engines need fixing and tuning! If the boat and the price are good, do not let the A-4 hold you back!

Thanks.

I heard the engine run last year. The boat was at my dock/marina then and the owner hadn't been down in a while.

The compartment and the engine didn't smell of gas and it felt cold when I looked at it the first time

After he turned on the vent fans for a bit, he started it and it started immediately! It was pumping water also.

[doogymon]

I just bought a 1970 Custom C&C35 (30 ft LWL) with a well tuned A4.
Similar to my C&C 27MKIII but on steroids and stiff (actually called a C&C36R).
The 27 has a Yanmar...the 36R wil be keeping the A4.
Cheers
Doog

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Dave9111

Regarding the life of a engine like the Atomic 4... I have a Ford 9N tractor from 1939 that still runs and I can still get parts for it. The engine is very similar to the Atomic 4. My Atomic 4 is new by comparison.

Dave

So I checked with my cousin today and he still has and maintains his Dad's old 8N Ford Tractor. It's a 1951 Model (My Dad had a Ford 800 before he stopped farming in the 60's)

My cousin has one of those also that still runs as does the 6 cylinder Oliver Diesel I drove back in the day when plowing. (or discing)

Today though I think he has all John Deere Tractors and they are massive!

[Souzag818]

Biggest issue to me is is it raw water or fresh water cooled. I owned a 1974 Tartan 30 with a raw water cooled one. It had never had been overhauled and it lasted till I sold the boat after 14 years. Easy to repair, parts are still available. I did put on electronic ignition and it started right up. When I sold the boat I let every potential buyer know that if I were to keep the boat, I would either overhaul it myself, or replace it with a used diesel. Good luck

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by Souzag818

Biggest issue to me is is it raw water or fresh water cooled. I owned a 1974 Tartan 30 with a raw water cooled one. It had never had been overhauled and it lasted till I sold the boat after 14 years. Easy to repair, parts are still available. I did put on electronic ignition and it started right up. When I sold the boat I let every potential buyer know that if I were to keep the boat, I would either overhaul it myself, or replace it with a used diesel. Good luck

Yeah, this one is raw water (saltwater) cooled also which is a worry, but it appears owner number one lived in New York near the City.

He owned the boat from 1975 until 2003 so I'm thinking it was well taken care of and possibly pulled every Winter

The only rust on the engine is in the area of the water pump