Anyone installed fuel tank for regular gas?

[BAD ORCA]

Originally Posted by Tedd

You might be interested in a technique I saw used in racing cars many years ago, before fuel cells were mandated. It's an easy way to make a fuel tank of virtually unlimited shape.

You begin by carving a block of foam into the shape of the final tank, undersized by about 5 mm on each face. This block is shaped to fit the space available. Then you fiberglass the outside, including whatever flanges or fittings you want to build into it. Once it's done you dissolve out the foam with acetone.

You can make quite a complicated tank that way in a weekend.

Sounds like a technique i might give a go at for my refrigerator refit.

[jalmberg]

Whenever I get a bright idea like this, I always ask myself, ‘I wonder why no one else does this???’ There’s usually a dern good reason ! If you do it, don’t forget to add blowers and all the other anti-explosion devices boats had in the days when gas engines were used.

[SV__Grace]

You can easily add a fuel pump to a fuel tank that has a pickup tube or other connection for a fuel line (as any fuel tank should).

Would be cool to securely mount your gas generator and plumb it to the tank with a 3 way valve attached to a hose long enough to reach your dinghy outboard. If your outboard is your primary engine than you can plumb both to the fuel tank and the pump should be enough to feed either one adequately.

We added a Racor Fuel Polishing pump to our boat and built a matrix of valves that allows us to-

• Transfer between tanks
• Extract fuel into a jerry can or other container (installed a permanently attached hose with it's own valve and cap)
• Polish our fuel
• Fill our 5 gallon day tank that fuels our drip diesel heater (Dickinson Arctic)

Easy and fun project with lots of brass parts right off the shelf from the hardware store.

Tip #1: Hardest part for me was eliminating leaks as the pump puts out enough pressure to challenge the fittings. Turns out that teflon pipe joint compound worked much better than teflon tape. This stuff is the best.

Tip #2: Label all valves and be sure to check their position before transferring fuel to prevent inadvertent leaks and spills. Always monitor fuel transfer while in operation.

Originally Posted by BAD ORCA

Also, it might be easier to build in a small pump to extract fuel from the cans than to get fuel from a tank set deep into the hull.

[Ike]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

Good plan to go with the jerry can storage.

One more point about a built-in tank: Regulations. At least in the US, there are some very specific rules for any vessel with permanently installed gasoline tanks.

You beat me too it. But I might add, Canada and the EU regulate this as well. A few other countries too such as Australia/New Zealand. So if you do it you need to install it safely. If you would rather not, stick with Jerry cans or a portable fuel tank for outboards.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

Fiberglass is a no go for gasoline tanks. There's no resin that holds up well enough to ethanol long term.

You are right but he can use this method to get a perfectly fitting for the box for the planed storage locker incl fittings for drainage. You primer it with epoxy primer and paint it with car paint that withstands petrol.
I would try to get to get gasoline without ethanol or as less as possible because ethanol is responsible for clogging up the carburetors in the small 4 stroke outboard engines...

[CaptTom]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

...I would try to get to get gasoline without ethanol or as less as possible because ethanol is responsible for clogging up the carburetors in the small 4 stroke outboard engines...

The only places you can buy ethanol-free gasoline around here (Northeast US) are airports. Unless you buy it in 1-gallon cans at the big-box stores, which run around $20US/gallon last I checked.

I've never heard of ethanol clogging up carburetors. It can cause the fuel to separate, which causes problems. It can dissolve hoses, fiberglass tanks and "gunk" from the sides of tanks. Those can clog the carb. But the ethanol itself isn't causing the clogging.

I've never heard of painting the inside of a fuel tank. I'd be very wary of that.

[CaptainRivet]

Originally Posted by CaptTom

The only places you can buy ethanol-free gasoline around here (Northeast US) are airports. Unless you buy it in 1-gallon cans at the big-box stores, which run around $20US/gallon last I checked.

I've never heard of ethanol clogging up carburetors. It can cause the fuel to separate, which causes problems. It can dissolve hoses, fiberglass tanks and "gunk" from the sides of tanks. Those can clog the carb. But the ethanol itself isn't causing the clogging.

I've never heard of painting the inside of a fuel tank. I'd be very wary of that.

Fuel without ethanol doesn't clogg up, with it does. So its the reason this is happening...if it does this itself or by chemical reaction with dirt/residuals what in the gasoline doesn't really matter...its the root cause its happening. You can prevent it buy adding fuel stabilizer but i prefer not to have in in the first place...well i actually have a 2stroke Tohastu MB9.8 26kg 9.8hp engine in delivery to end the battle with the 4stroke....

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by BAD ORCA

Just curious if anyone has installed a small fuel tank aboard for regular gas for dinghy motor/ small generator instead of relying on stowed jerry cans?

I've been on lots of boats with permanently installed gasoline tanks but always to provide fuel to the outboard that moves the boat.

Any particular downsides to doing this?

1) Cost and complexity
2) Fuel logistics


The cost and complexity piece is that you have to find room, buy the tank, tie it down, install a vent line, install a deck fill, install vent fittings and an exhaust blower for the compartment that contains the tank, install a fuel pump, install a dispensing line of some kind, install bulkheads that separate the fuel tank and lines from the rest of the boat, replace any electrical devices with ignition protected ones if they're in the same space as the fuel tank. And you're going to want a fuel gauge. And a racor.



The fuel logistics piece, as noted upthread, you're going to encounter situations where you want to purchase gasoline from somewhere other than a fuel dock. So then you'll be jugging fuel and transferring it into the big tank aboard.


Take a look at the Rotopax portable gasoline tanks. They have 2 and 3 gallon tanks that can be securely mounted to a bulkhead and that are easier to handle and pour from than the widely used 6 gallon jugs.

[Kettlewell]

Back in the day when I had sailboats with inboard gasoline engines we used to be very careful when fueling up, venting, etc. I used to run a bilge fan for a few minutes prior to starting the engine and the entire time it was running. I would carefully do the sniff test down below and in the engine compartmant just to make sure there were no gas fumes. But, there will always come a time when something somewhere leaks, no matter how careful you are, and I do not like having gasoline leaking inside my hull. Many boats have come to grief that way.

[thinwater]

Yup, I've installed gas tanks. No, I have never wasted money on ethanol-free gas.


Tanks. The only reason to install one is that you can fit more gas in the same space. Only you can say if this is important. That said, gas tanks are not to be taken lightly, and you must follow every rule to the letter. It's not like diesel. I did, and neither survey nor insurance were an issues, but both will be unless you are diligent. Also, in both cases the tank was in the bridge deck of a cat, so no fumes in the hull and any leak would go overboard. Inside a monohull takes gasoline up a notch. I saw one explode at a fuel dock. Fortunately, it was a relatively open fishing boat, and just the dog box flew.



I agree that making a nice place for a Jerry can is usually the better choice. A place that drains overboard.



Ethanol. The ethanol can draw water, and water corrodes aluminum carb bowls (aluminum + brass jets = galvanic corrosion). The solutions are:

• Keep the gas dry. Portable tank vents should only be open when in use. Fixed tanks should have carbon (required on new boats) or silica gel vent filters. Yes, the vent filter installation is slightly complex to do right, but it will pay for itself in reduced evaporative losses within 1-2 years. Run the engine monthly if at all possible.
• Treat the gas with an anti-corrosion additive. Not all additives do anything. Merc Stor-N-Start, Biobor EB, and Stabil 360 Marine have 3rd party tested highly effective against aluminum corrosion.

No problems.

[Tedd]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

Fiberglass is a no go for gasoline tanks. There's no resin that holds up well enough to ethanol long term.

https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer.html

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Fixed tanks should have carbon (required on new boats) or silica gel vent filters. Yes, the vent filter installation is slightly complex to do right, but it will pay for itself in reduced evaporative losses within 1-2 years.

Being that I have gas inboards, this has brought that idea back into my head. Is there a good source of info on retrofitting a vent filter into existing tanks? I've always figured I lose about 5 gal out of each tank over the winter to evaporation (2x210 gal tanks).

[GordMay]

The New Era of Gasoline Fuel Installations- ABYC H-24 and H-25" ~ by Dave Gerr
New EPA Regulations Have Made Significant Changes to Gasoline Fuel Systems on Boats. Here’s What You Need to Know!
➥ https://www.gerrmarine.com/Articles/...neventsnew.pdf
or
➥ https://forcon.com/the-new-era-of-ga...byc-h-24-h-25/


“ABYC H-24 GASOLINE FUEL SYSTEMS” applies to both inboard and outboard powered boats, with permanently installed fuel systems.
ABYC also has a standard, H-25 Portable Gasoline Fuel Systems, for boats with portable fuel tanks.
Preview ➥ https://webstore.ansi.org/preview-pa...+H-24-2017.pdf
A very old [1993] full version ➥ https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/....H-24.1993.pdf

United States Coast Guard and Environmental Protection Agency
Compliance Guideline -How to Comply with the Law-
Fuel and Emissions
➥ https://www.uscgboating.org/assets/1...YC.1002.01.pdf

[BAD ORCA]

Originally Posted by SV__Grace

You can easily add a fuel pump to a fuel tank that has a pickup tube or other connection for a fuel line (as any fuel tank should).

Would be cool to securely mount your gas generator and plumb it to the tank with a 3 way valve attached to a hose long enough to reach your dinghy outboard. If your outboard is your primary engine than you can plumb both to the fuel tank and the pump should be enough to feed either one adequately.

We added a Racor Fuel Polishing pump to our boat and built a matrix of valves that allows us to-

• Transfer between tanks
• Extract fuel into a jerry can or other container (installed a permanently attached hose with it's own valve and cap)
• Polish our fuel
• Fill our 5 gallon day tank that fuels our drip diesel heater (Dickinson Arctic)

Easy and fun project with lots of brass parts right off the shelf from the hardware store.

Tip #1: Hardest part for me was eliminating leaks as the pump puts out enough pressure to challenge the fittings. Turns out that teflon pipe joint compound worked much better than teflon tape. This stuff is the best.

Tip #2: Label all valves and be sure to check their position before transferring fuel to prevent inadvertent leaks and spills. Always monitor fuel transfer while in operation.

You might be onto something here! I could put a 150 gal gas tank and put one of those gas station style pumps on the stern and become a floating gas station for all the dinghies in the popular med anchorages :P

[BAD ORCA]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Take a look at the Rotopax portable gasoline tanks. They have 2 and 3 gallon tanks that can be securely mounted to a bulkhead and that are easier to handle and pour from than the widely used 6 gallon jugs.

Thanks, i will check them out.