Quote:
Originally Posted by Lateral Hazard
I thought the same thing but was told without smoke or rough running the water is not in the top of the head because I should see, (after 2 hours running time) white smoke or bad combustion.
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A “blown head gasket” can create a variety of confusing
events depending on where it
leaks TO .
If it blows between 2 cylinders it might not even be noticeable apart from a loss of full load
power and maybe light grey or whitish smoke but no overheat or coolant loss.
If the gasket blows across to the pushrod gallery there might be fuming from the oil filler and occasionally this is mis diagnosed as cylinder blow by. Again, no overheat or fluid loss
If the gasket just blows directly across to the water jacket there will be the
classic bubbles in the top tank accompanied by coolant ejection and
overheating.
BUT if the initial gasket failure is across to the pushrod gallery and later as the gasket erodes, the water jacket is breached and the coolant has a chance of taking the easier path to the oil pan via the pushrod gallery.
Do a cylinder leakage test to establish which mode of failure actually exists and then take off the head and carefully inspect the gasket to verify.
If you’re a reasonably handy boat owner by all means do the head gasket yourself but if you hire a mechanic he will most likely want to
haul out the engine and take it to a workshop because he has no easy way of knowing how badly damaged the rest of the engine is after having been run on coolant and oil for a few hours. ( the coolant might even displace enough oil to completely cover the oil suction
screen and the engine could have run totally on coolant).
Don’t suggest doing the
work in the
cockpit or in the
saloon.
On saving
money and getting a good
overhaul here’s a few tips. Mechanics typically charge traveling time from workshop to the job and have to carry all the tools,
plywood, oils .... everything, from the carpark to the boat and , on an in
hull rebuild this goes on day after day. Even the usual
washing of oil pans and engine blocks is a drawn out ordeal at a guaranteed $100 an hour. Here a Cat mechanic clocks on to the job at the workshop and off again when he gets back at $200 an hour.... and they travel as a team of 2.
There is no better place to
rebuild and bench run an engine than in a proper workshop.
All the best with your engine.
Pete.