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Old 17-01-2023, 21:01   #1
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3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

Next project on my Yanmar 3GM30F, on the newish to me 1990 Caliber 33, is to replace the primary (Racor) and secondary fuel filters. Which I’ve never done before. I also want to replace what appear to be original fuel hoses, per the survey recommendation. I was thinking of doing both projects at the same time, as I’d only have to bleed the lines once.

Question: Due to my lack of experience, am I better off changing the fuel filters first, bleed the lines and make sure the engine starts, as one step. Then after a successful start, replace the fuel hoses, bleed and try to start again. Doing all (filters and hoses) at one time would save bleeding the lines twice, but it introduces more variables to trouble shoot if the engine doesn’t start. Another project is to remove the fuel injectors to have them cleaned and tested, as the engine is hard starting when cold. I’m not sure I want to introduce that variable into the fuel filter project. Plus side of doing each separately, it would refine my fuel line bleeding skills.

Thoughts?

DD
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Old 18-01-2023, 09:28   #2
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

The 3GM30 is very easy to bleed; it's two screws. It's nice to know how to do that quickly if you ever find yourself without power and drifting. But I'd suggest still going through the process in separate steps to minimize troubleshooting. I say this as someone in your shoes a few years back who took all day to watch YouTube and multiple trips to the store just to change the oil the first time. It does get easier. That said, the manual fuel pump IMO is the hardest thing to deal with if you have completely drained the fuel. A friend recently helped me upgrade to a 12v fuel pump with a bigger primary Racor that's also easier to change. Just watch out for the pressure behind those bleed screws! If you're doing it manually, it's in an awkward spot and it's going to take a while so be patient and get comforable. Mine went bad once. You know it's working if you can feel the pressure of the fuel going through. It's lost to time how long it took before figuring that one out...
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Old 18-01-2023, 09:46   #3
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

There's really no variables, if it doesn't start it needs to be bleed. The manual pump lever on the mechanical pump is frustrating it moves a drop at a time. If your Racor has the pump on top it works much better. It is also possible to use your oil extractor up at the on engine filter to suck fuel up that far.
However, I worked as a mechanic thru college a million years ago so have a tendency to only want to do something once. Especially involving diesel, even if you wear rubber gloves I can smell it on my hands for days.
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Old 18-01-2023, 09:49   #4
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

Normally I would say do one at a time for the reasons you mention. But I think on this one I would just do both. You'll just make a mess 2 times instead of one time.

I always fill the Racor full of fuel once the new filter is in, then tighten the top down. The on-engine filter also if you can. I have found at times the Racor will not fill fully and cause issues. Sometimes an engine will run a half hour before dying from air or lack of fuel. Filling the filter will also help get the vacuum going to pull fuel from the tank and fill the fuel lines faster.

I never had to do more than crack one injector on a 3GM30 and it would start readily.

An upgrade to consider while doing this is adding a little electric fuel pump with a switch between the tank and the Racor. They are inexpensive and allow you to fill the system after changes with a flip of the switch. It also gives you a backup lift pump if the engine one fails.
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Old 18-01-2023, 10:09   #5
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

I have the same engine and need to do this, so very interested in the exact sequence needed...

After I have removed the racor and changed the secondary filter on the engine, is this the correct sequence:

- Screw the new racor onto the bowl and fill with diesel
- Screw the assembled filter and bowl onto the racor's top section mounted on the bulkhead
- What now, do I loosen the bleed screw at the secondary "on engine" filter?
- Now do I use the pump on the racor or the finger lever on the secondary?
- Once I see fuel and no bubbles at the bleed screw, close the bleed screw.

Should I crank the engine now? With decompression levers open and water inlet closed?

Bit confused as to the next step. When I watched someone else do it, they didn't seem to undo an injector.
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Old 18-01-2023, 10:30   #6
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

Quote:
Originally Posted by leecea View Post
I have the same engine and need to do this, so very interested in the exact sequence needed...

After I have removed the racor and changed the secondary filter on the engine, is this the correct sequence:

- Screw the new racor onto the bowl and fill with diesel
- Screw the assembled filter and bowl onto the racor's top section mounted on the bulkhead
- What now, do I loosen the bleed screw at the secondary "on engine" filter?
- Now do I use the pump on the racor or the finger lever on the secondary?
- Once I see fuel and no bubbles at the bleed screw, close the bleed screw.

Should I crank the engine now? With decompression levers open and water inlet closed?

Bit confused as to the next step. When I watched someone else do it, they didn't seem to undo an injector.
It sounds like you have a 'screw on' Racor filter not the usual FF500 most sailors use? Also, you have a pump on your Racor?
I would eliminate the bleeding unless you have trouble. Most often, they will start right up with no issue. But you can certainly just try the bleeding if you want.
Another method of bleeding is to start it up and crack the nut on the last injector in line slightly and look for any bubbles.
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Old 18-01-2023, 10:58   #7
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

Quote:
It sounds like you have a 'screw on' Racor filter not the usual FF500 most sailors use? Also, you have a pump on your Racor?
Yes, I have a Racor 200 Series 30 like the picture below:

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Old 18-01-2023, 11:01   #8
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

Some Racor's have a priming pump, including the 200 series, works much better than the little lever on the mechanical pump.
https://www.racorstore.com/racor-rk2...-assembly.html
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Old 18-01-2023, 11:50   #9
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

It should be mentioned that it is usually good practice to close the fuel supply line valve before starting to remove filters. And remember to open before bleeding and re-starting.
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Old 18-01-2023, 13:00   #10
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

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Originally Posted by gamayun View Post
The 3GM30 is very easy to bleed; it's two screws. It's nice to know how to do that quickly if you ever find yourself without power and drifting. But I'd suggest still going through the process in separate steps to minimize troubleshooting. I say this as someone in your shoes a few years back who took all day to watch YouTube and multiple trips to the store just to change the oil the first time. It does get easier. That said, the manual fuel pump IMO is the hardest thing to deal with if you have completely drained the fuel. A friend recently helped me upgrade to a 12v fuel pump with a bigger primary Racor that's also easier to change. Just watch out for the pressure behind those bleed screws! If you're doing it manually, it's in an awkward spot and it's going to take a while so be patient and get comforable. Mine went bad once. You know it's working if you can feel the pressure of the fuel going through. It's lost to time how long it took before figuring that one out...
two step repair? like buying one shoe at the time
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Old 18-01-2023, 13:05   #11
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheechako View Post
It sounds like you have a 'screw on' Racor filter not the usual FF500 most sailors use? Also, you have a pump on your Racor?
I would eliminate the bleeding unless you have trouble. Most often, they will start right up with no issue. But you can certainly just try the bleeding if you want.
Another method of bleeding is to start it up and crack the nut on the last injector in line slightly and look for any bubbles.

I also have a Racor Series 200. What filter system is the FF500? It wasn't obvious when I search the internet. The boat used to have a Baldwin 65, based on the manual I found in a binder.


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Old 22-01-2023, 12:11   #12
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

Quote:
Originally Posted by c.K. View Post
two step repair? like buying one shoe at the time
That's a weird analogy. Next time just call me a dipstick; I can take it. To the OP though, who was new to their engine like I was to mine, all I can offer is that I did these in two projects at two different times because there were lots of other things that were getting fixed (or found to be needing fixing), which turned two small jobs into bigger (and longer) jobs. If the OP is just changing one fuel line, like the short one at the secondary fuel filter, then sure, makes sense to do it all at once. I was thinking a little more broadly about how stuff happens on my older boat.
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Old 22-01-2023, 15:59   #13
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

If you use the Yanmar lift pump to prime the engine after a filter change you will probably need to manually rotate the engine a bit to get the lift pump “off the cam” so that the manual lever can move the diaphragm up and down. I recently discovered that not all 3GM’s are the same and some are actually self priming via a poppet valve between the injector pump bleed point and the return to tank, a great idea given that during the usual bleeding process the excess fuel can wet the rubber engine mount and cause it to swell and delaminate. A plastic bag over the mount will also help avoid this.
Using the decompression levers to allow the engine to roll over more easily can also be helpful. if cranking is likely to be prolonged, close the raw water intake until the engine agrees to start.
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Old 29-01-2023, 19:29   #14
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

Today I replaced my Racor 230R primary fuel filter and the secondary on the engine. I was able to use the Racor primer pump to bleed all the way to the end of the low pressure fuel delivery system. Once bled I was able to start and run the engine. There didn’t appear to be any water captured in the Racor filter bowl, but there was a lot of sediment. The Racor filter also looked dirty. The secondary on the engine looked clean. Looks like one of the next projects is to drain and clean the fuel tank.
DD
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Old 21-01-2025, 13:32   #15
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Re: 3GM30F fuel filters and hose replacement-same time?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleD View Post
Today I replaced my Racor 230R primary fuel filter and the secondary on the engine. I was able to use the Racor primer pump to bleed all the way to the end of the low pressure fuel delivery system. Once bled I was able to start and run the engine. There didn’t appear to be any water captured in the Racor filter bowl, but there was a lot of sediment. The Racor filter also looked dirty. The secondary on the engine looked clean. Looks like one of the next projects is to drain and clean the fuel tank.
DD
You could just rig a portable polishing kit with a suction wand and run the fuel through a filter a few cycles. Many examples on web.
That’s the particulate type stuff that can’t be allowed to reach the fuel injection pump or it creates havoc. Many think it’s OK to prefill the secondary filter from a jug but that’s our last chance to capture wayward particles over 10 micron. I always let my secondary filter fill by pumping fuel forward.
If you do prefill it, it should be very clean fuel and poured only to the inlet side of the filter, in this case, the outer periphery, so the bowl itself.
If the lift pump can’t be mastered, consider pressurization with about 1/2psi into the tank from an air mattress inflator. That’s good for a 16” increase. Another option is to crank the engine with raw water off, engine stop activated (no fuel is injected) and compression released.
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