12v raw water pump ideas

[Islander53]

Originally Posted by Ecos

How would you do that if your welder was 3000 miles away? Maybe a wood mock up?

If I had to do that, I'd start the mount first, drill your holes and have my "base" mounted . then mock up , measure , and Mark where the alternator sits on the peice of metal that you've bolted to the engine. Then fly home and weld it. . . I love welding stainless with stick rod. , You could always do what I mentioned above, then use your batteries and jumper cables to tack it together.

[Islander53]

I've built multiple alternator brackets that didn't require any welding. Just drilling and bolting.

[sdj]

Originally Posted by Islander53

Most of the reason I wanted 3 alternators was for running my welder , so I can build alternator brackets... Maybe I should add one more .

Wrong inverter, wrong battery system.

Swap to dual redundant 5KVA all-in-one hybrid sine inverters, and a modern lithium-based 48V battery system, or better, and a single delco 55 alternator. Use a 5KVA or larger variable frequency drive for all your three phase heavy duty appliances. Now you want for nothing, and all from solar.

[Islander53]

Originally Posted by sdj

Wrong inverter, wrong battery system.

Swap to dual redundant 5KVA all-in-one hybrid sine inverters, and a modern lithium-based 48V battery system, or better, and a single delco 55 alternator. Use a 5KVA or larger variable frequency drive for all your three phase heavy duty appliances. Now you want for nothing, and all from solar.

$$$$$ $$¢$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

What you mentioned is exactly what I need and want unfortunately that set up would probably cost me equal to my whole yearly sailing fund. Or likely more

Im 27 , 2 kids and no career. I'm one boating accident away from being that guy you told to piss off when he asked you for change. . With that said I love building and experimenting so I'm always hillbilly-ing stuff together from nothin. . That's kinda my goal in life , make the most out of nothing/whatever I have.
.
What Im trying to accomplish was have enough power to weld up to 3/8 stainless (accomplished) and run 2 9000 btu 33 seerr mini split air conditioner. Hopefully being able to use only solar for most of the day .. well see how this goes but I also like the idea of using the main as a genset. I picture myself motorsailing a lot with the engine just a tick above idle, giving me a little speed but heating or cooling down the whole cabin. Maybe .5 gallon hr at the most but likely less.

My current setup
(20) gc2 AutoZone batteries. Got them for $65 each , $1300 total

(3) 100 amp alternators
$200

Power jack 8000 lf inverter
$400

$300 for wiring .

1400 watts of solar
$1400

Charge controllers
$600

$4200 total all set up
That might get me 1 quality inverter.

[sdj]

Originally Posted by Islander53

$4200 total all set up. That might get me 1 quality inverter.

No, 5KWh of LiFepo4 and single 5KVA hybrid inverter charger ex China is about the same amount of money, and infinitely expandable.

If you like to teach your kids its ok to live life that that, then thats your perogative. But do you?

SDJ

[Islander53]

Which inverter are you recommending?

Lifepo4 is my future. I'm running these golf cart batteries hard , and when they quit I am not replacing.

Not sure what you meant bout the kids . But I'm sure they'll be right.

[sdj]

Search aliexpress for mppt hybrid

[Islander53]

Originally Posted by sdj

Search aliexpress for mppt hybrid

So your recommending a inverter/solar charger hybrid? What is the benefit of a combination?
I have no shore power or generator. So a "hybrid" or boosting feature does nothing for me.

Currently I have 5 separate charge controller for each pannel . This made a big difference in shading compared to one big controller or is that not always true with large chargers?

[sdj]

Originally Posted by Islander53

So your recommending a inverter/solar charger hybrid? What is the benefit of a combination?
I have no shore power or generator. So a "hybrid" or boosting feature does nothing for me.

I've given you a lead, you will have to do your own homework. Search youtube for "will prowse".

Originally Posted by Islander53

Currently I have 5 separate charge controller for each pannel . This made a big difference in shading compared to one big controller or is that not always true with large chargers?

Your conclusion is correct, but often will be for reasons other than observed or stated. That is always a minefield, and you will need to traverse it yourself or with an engineer.

The reason I suggest the hybrid unit, is for simplicity and economy. A 5KVA inverter mppt controller for under a grand is a bargain, no matter how you look at it, and then when it's time to upgrade you buy a second one and put it in slave mode. It's just too easy.

Unsubscribing.

[Kuu333]

Hi Islander53!

Reviving this old thread as I'm curious how your experience has been over the past few years with the 12V Groco centrifugal pump providing your engine with raw water cooling?

I've got a Universal M25XPB onboard my 1981 C&C 32 sailboat, purchased from a previous owner last year. About 10 years ago, the previous owner replaced the original engine mounted impeller water pump">raw water pump with a 12v Jabsco diaphragm pump after the impeller pump failed due to a sheared tang on the camshaft. The 12v Jabsco pump has worked well in keeping the engine cool, never had any issues with water backing up the exhaust system into the engine. The main downside to the 12v Jabsco pump is that the motor is only rated for intermittent use (30 min duty cycle); good for getting off and on the dock but not for longer cruising days.

I'm searching for a replacement 12v raw water pump option that is rated for continuous duty; magnet-driven centrifugal pumps seem like a good option. My only concern is their lack of self-priming. Have you had any priming issues with you Groco pump?

Thanks!

[deblen]

Originally Posted by Islander53

I want to pick the brains of some creative folks around here. I need to come up with a cheap, simple , and reliable solution for engaging a 12v centrifugal pump only when the engine is running. So it can be activated by either oil pressure or alternator.

I have a basic low oil alarm that is ground activated , meaning it isolates the ground once oil pressure has been achieved. Ideas for a solenoid that can be activated when the ground is removed ?

I have (2) 1 wire 100 alternators that are hooked directly to my batteries so the alternator output is hot all the time. Not sure how I could use this to activate a solenoid.

Let's hear your solutions.

I am trying replace my belt driven raw water pump with a 12 v one to make some room on the engine for another alternator (yes I want 3 alternators!) I have nothing but problems with my belt driven jabsco pump and this seems like a good solution .

Link to a combi oil pressure switch. It has 3 terminals Common,.N.O. & N.C..https://dieselpro.com/detroit-diesel...ake-break.html
You would use common & n.c. wired to a heavy duty relay coil. I have found the points in oil pressure switches burn out if they operate more than a bulb.
Some locals used them to feed + to the field of 60-150 amp alternators & this seems to burn them yearly or so.
Buy a relay with contact current rating of double your electric pumps starting current.
I would also rig a toggle switch to feed 12VDC direct to your electric pump in case the pressure swx-relay fails.
Cheers/Len