Your best bridle recipe?

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Now is different.

really interesting.

Can you describe briefly how to take the looped end and make a prussik? it’s always a bit of a struggle to tie those to be honest. I’m always having to remember how to do it. Knots fade fast in my memory.

i’m imagining you take the loop and pressed it up against the rode, then pull a bitter end through.... Oh... Wait a minute.

this can’t work with a bridle.

there is no bitter end because it’s already cleated off to the bow cleats and integrated with a ring at the point the lines from each bow meet each other.

I was really liking that idea though. Simple.

For a bridle, you use 2 lines with this method. Each one attaches the chain independently (just next to each other).

For the Prusik, you feed the line through its own loop (with the chain or rode in the middle) so it's now a constricted loop around the chain or line. Then do it again, which will leave you with something looking pretty much like the picture below (with the line coming off from the bottom middle).

You have to attach the lines to the rode before cleating them when using dock lines for this, although you can get loops meant to make a prusik and then be shackled to another line. If nothing else, it's a good temporary solution to get you going and help you decide on line thickness, length, etc. for a bridle before you make up something permanent.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

For a bridle, you use 2 lines with this method. Each one attaches the chain independently (just next to each other).

For the Prusik, you feed the line through its own loop (with the chain or rode in the middle) so it's now a constricted loop around the chain or line. Then do it again, which will leave you with something looking pretty much like the picture below (with the line coming off from the bottom middle).

You have to attach the lines to the rode before cleating them when using dock lines for this, although you can get loops meant to make a prusik and then be shackled to another line. If nothing else, it's a good temporary solution to get you going and help you decide on line thickness, length, etc. for a bridle before you make up something permanent.

This is the bees knees as they say!

This might be the most simple best way to do this.

so the picture shows doubling up a small line to do this around the larger line.


I could splice a loop in the end of a line, like a dock line like what you said, and then just pass that single bitter end through the loop, just once right?

and then clean it off at the bow?

And do that twice to make a bridle.

Is it sufficient to just pass it through one time?

I see no need at all to change this approach if this is equivalent to the prussik. this is the permanent way I would do it. And it’s much easier to deal with than chain hooks and things like that. And simple. So easy to replace yourself when things get worn out.

[rslifkin]

Originally Posted by Chotu

This is the bees knees as they say!

This might be the most simple best way to do this.

so the picture shows doubling up a small line to do this around the larger line.


I could splice a loop in the end of a line, like a dock line like what you said, and then just pass that single bitter end through the loop, just once right?

and then clean it off at the bow?

And do that twice to make a bridle.

Is it sufficient to just pass it through one time?

I see no need at all to change this approach if this is equivalent to the prussik. this is the permanent way I would do it. And it’s much easier to deal with than chain hooks and things like that. And simple. So easy to replace yourself when things get worn out.

I've passed through just once and had it hold fine on chain, but that'll likely slide on rope. Going through twice to form a full Prusik is likely needed for adequate friction on rope.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by rslifkin

I've passed through just once and had it hold fine on chain, but that'll likely slide on rope. Going through twice to form a full Prusik is likely needed for adequate friction on rope.

Still a lot easier than tying a prussik.

This is definitely my go to technique that I’m going to use. Thank you. Very simple stuff.

[Benz]

Here's a pic several prototypes that have since been refined. The ring is meant for big sail clews and can be sourced by any sailmaker.
If your bridle is 2 legs of 5/8" that's stronger than your single 3/4" rode. If you up the bridle size, you might up the rode size, otherwise what's the point?

[smj]

I believe each leg of our bridle is 50’ of 5/8” line. We like a long adjustable bridle so we can adjust for depth, but it’s also advantageous when you have a beam on swell. Run one leg of the forward cleat and the other of a midship or stern cleat to point the bow into the swell rather than wind.

[admiralslater]

On our Outremer 45 we use a bridle that reaches the full beam of our boat (24 ft) loops at each end .the attachment point I use a dyneema loop as the main connection point. The two legs of the bridle are secured to the loop with a a soft shackle.
It has worked well for seven years now. The great thing is the whole mess will go through through the anchour roller.

[UFO]

On our Lagoon 440 I use 8 Meters (per leg) of 16mm 3 strand nylon attached to the chain with a Dyneema Climbing loop (doubled up through the chain) and a Dyneema soft shackle. I have anchored in over 40Kts with an unpleasant swell rolling through with no issues.



I do need to replace the bridle around once per year as it starts to become quite brittle and the loop and shackle show signs of wear - I have anchored out almost continuously for the last 18 months.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Benz

Here's a pic several prototypes that have since been refined. The ring is meant for big sail clews and can be sourced by any sailmaker.
If your bridle is 2 legs of 5/8" that's stronger than your single 3/4" rode. If you up the bridle size, you might up the rode size, otherwise what's the point?

I forgot to answer this question. Sorry.

so, there are a couple of reasons for the 3/4".

The first reason is I already have it. It’s brand new from New England ropes. I don’t have to buy anything. I just have to break out the fids.

The second reason is that they are not symmetrically loaded. Not on my boat anyway. My boat fully does an upwind race at anchor. Fast. It pulls very hard on one side and then on the other side. So, theoretically one side of that bridle can take the full load.

I trust everyone’s opinion on the 5/8, but, I have the 3/4 already on the boat. And I leave in 7 days. There is definitely no time to be doing anything fancy. Or ordering things I don’t need.

[SailFastTri]

Originally Posted by Chotu

Still a lot easier than tying a prussik.

This is definitely my go to technique that I’m going to use. Thank you. Very simple stuff.

That is what I posted about earlier. You should not use a dock line, IMHO, although it can be used in a pinch. Use at least 3 wraps on rope, 2 on chain.
The best thing is to use a piece of Dyneema, no more than 3/8” diameter, that has been spliced into a continuous loop OR with 2 eyes (one in each end). You can attach those to your bridle legs with soft shackles or metal ones, of adequate strength.
This is what’s being sold by Mantus as a snubber pendent, but you can do this yourself https://www.mantusmarine.com/snubber-pendant/

PS - If you splice your own Dyneema, apply all the usual caveats about long tucks and tapering the ends. I like to stitch the splices as an added measure so that it doesn’t loosen when not under load.

[team karst]

My wife has to hang over the crossbeam to attach the bridle. There is no knot tieing. There is placement of the mantas chain hook. But it is a chain rode only solution. The best part of the soft solutions is the ability to send it all thru the roller from a more comfortable deck position.

With tidal currents and wind, you will want to shorten the bridal legs significantly. Any whisper lines in the area?? They r trouble when the rode runs aft.

[smj]

The Mantus snubber wouldn’t work for me as I think it’s important to have something that’s easily removable.
If your dragging anchor in 50kts of wind there is no time to be messing with a shackle and crescent wrench. I want to be able to quickly release the bridle and have the ability for the windlass to pull the chain in as quickly as possible. The faster your able to retrieve the anchor the faster your able to get your boat out of a dangerous situation.

[team karst]

Originally Posted by smj

...The faster your able to retrieve the anchor the faster your able to get your boat out of a dangerous situation.

True. And an unloaded chain hook comes off in seconds.

[thinwater]

Although I could offer many thoughts ...


Remember that a bridle, like dock boards, is a disposable wear item. It's not like designing chain plates, where you have one chance to get it right. Tie something up, live with it, and then decide later what works for your boat. I have used a different set-up on each boat I owned, and each one evolved after living with it to something more user friendly.



This is not something I would belabor right now. Just pick a middle of the road suggestion and move on. It will be replace after ~ 100-200 days at anchor anyway, depending on wear.

[smj]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Although I could offer many thoughts ...


Remember that a bridle, like dock boards, is a disposable wear item. It's not like designing chain plates, where you have one chance to get it right. Tie something up, live with it, and then decide later what works for your boat. I have used a different set-up on each boat I owned, and each one evolved after living with it to something more user friendly.



This is not something I would belabor right now. Just pick a middle of the road suggestion and move on. It will be replace after ~ 100-200 days at anchor anyway, depending on wear.

We used one bridle for well over a thousand nights at anchor and no real sign of wear, though I’m sure most of the elastic stretch was pulled out of it.