Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[SailRN]

The picture wasn't very clear, but mine looks similar.

[Buzzman]

Originally Posted by longjonsilver

People have moved large boats over the roads. Not cheap tho. Somebody moved Wilsons Legacy over the roads to the water in Mass. She was some 40' long

jon

Yeah, and it cost over US$25K to move it around 10 miles, because of the road closures and LEO costs....

[Buzzman]

Originally Posted by migizi

Hello all!

I'm Jack and this is my recently acquired searunner. It is another one of those boats that never got finished. It was offered to us, not knowing anything about it initially, we fell in love with her (her potential) even though its "20%" complete.


I'm aware of water damage to the very bottom, will probably need to be "re-skinned"
Maybe replace the trunk for cheap insurance!
All the exposed glass and epoxy will have to be stripped and re done.

I think the only way I'm going to be able to move it to my ward is by separating the hulls, cutting her wings, unfortunately! I know it's not a good idea. but theres gotta be a way, right? I've seen photos and read about others who have had to do the same for shipping a full-wing boat.

Is the bottom rotten due to rainwater leaking in past the tarps? If so then yes, you will need to replace those panels, and for insurance probably the base of the C/B trunk. The top loooks like it was OK, and has been well protected by the tarp.


Most of the non-painted ply/epoxy also looks OK. If it was sun damaged it would be more yellow in appearance, so it's probably OK to just sand it back a bit to remove the oxidised surface layer. Wouldn't risk this below the warterline, but those areas are painted already so havce an additional layer of UV protection.


I'd suggest there's a lot less work than you think, but obvioulsy if glass parts company easily with the wood substrate, it needs replacing. If you need to physically scrape or chisel it off, it's fine. Just give it a good sand and recoat with fresh epoxy, then paint.


Interior is probably only epoxy, and not varnished as well over the 'bare' areas, so theuy need either varnish OR paint. it's nice to leave some areas varnished so the wood is visible. But this is a personal aesthetic...


As to cutting it, ask JM where the best place to cut is. I suspect somewhere well away from either vaka or ama, maybe in the middle of the wing, as you can then later 'peel' the ply off those frames, rejoin/replace/double those cut sections of the frames and replace the ply across the join, which will strengthen the whole wing, not just the join. At least, that's how I would do it...but I'm only a carpenter, not a naval architect....

[migizi]

Originally Posted by Boatguy30

Is that 34 in Bayfield? Looks like a great project and nice build site.

Pretty close, were just a town over. Apostle islands are my playground, like many places, breathtaking but kind of out of the way.

It would be a great build site, no neighbors at all! unfortunately the owners want the boat moved out, removal is part of the deal

[migizi]

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Is the bottom rotten due to rainwater leaking in past the tarps? If so then yes, you will need to replace those panels, and for insurance probably the base of the C/B trunk. The top loooks like it was OK, and has been well protected by the tarp.


Most of the non-painted ply/epoxy also looks OK. If it was sun damaged it would be more yellow in appearance, so it's probably OK to just sand it back a bit to remove the oxidised surface layer. Wouldn't risk this below the warterline, but those areas are painted already so havce an additional layer of UV protection.


I'd suggest there's a lot less work than you think, but obvioulsy if glass parts company easily with the wood substrate, it needs replacing. If you need to physically scrape or chisel it off, it's fine. Just give it a good sand and recoat with fresh epoxy, then paint.


Interior is probably only epoxy, and not varnished as well over the 'bare' areas, so theuy need either varnish OR paint. it's nice to leave some areas varnished so the wood is visible. But this is a personal aesthetic...


As to cutting it, ask JM where the best place to cut is. I suspect somewhere well away from either vaka or ama, maybe in the middle of the wing, as you can then later 'peel' the ply off those frames, rejoin/replace/double those cut sections of the frames and replace the ply across the join, which will strengthen the whole wing, not just the join. At least, that's how I would do it...but I'm only a carpenter, not a naval architect....

She's been sitting in the barn since 88. 2014 the roof collapsed. they covered it best they could with metal sheets from the roof and then tarp covers over that. some rain has gotten in and caused damage for certain to some of the bottom.

I'm 98% that this is a west system boat, I've worked with WEST alot with our glass motorboats. sure looks and feels like epoxy coated inside. the build date suggest WEST is highly likely.

[Buzzman]

Yeah. Sounds promising. You don't have to use West System necessarily, any epoxy resin would do, as you will be adding epoxy and glass only as glue bond, not as chemical bond, as happens in a wet layup. This is fine even if the builder used polyester resin initially, as epoxy 'sticks' well to polyester, but not the other way round.
As soon as you start sanding you'll know if it's polyester is it has a uniquely pungent aroma.
But if it has been mostly covered to keep UV off, the epoxy will be fine. As I said probably only need a light sand to take the oxidised outer surface off.
I guess the roof had collapsed by the damage to the edge of the seat in the cockpit and the apparent 'missing roof' in one of the photos.

[migizi]

a few more photos

[migizi]

a few more, and photo's of evidence from water damage

[migizi]

I didnt know what i was looking at when I had about 20 minutes to climb around and inspect the boat. Had to give an answer as to weather i think I can do something with it or not. Didnt get a chance to measure but she sure looks like a 34 full wing.


Now that I know better where to look in all the nooks and crannies i will do that. We sign the papers for her tomorrow, and then we can go and secure her better for the winter.


any tips on that? there is a bit of water in the bottom, wondering how i can get that to drain at times when i cant get there to sop up any water that got in. Drill a hole in the bottom? maybe if i find a for sure rotten spot in the bottom. could this be a bad idea somehow?


She'd been sitting on stands for so long through all seasons (on a dirt floor) a few without a shed roof, could the boat end up being twisted? and ideas how i could check for that?


Thanks in advance guys, appreciate all your support!

[Cavalier MK2]

Couple quick thoughts, on the draining pick the lowest spot (s) and drill a hole, say 3/4" dia., and coat the edges with epoxy, bigger is fine. Use a hole saw, this is a core sample and will, along with others, tell you what shape the panel is in. The cracks were caused by ice expanding? You may be in luck if the joints were made with epoxy when the glass radius chines were made as the panel edges may have been sealed when it was taped together. Looks a bit like a wing deck 31 to me but I just took a quick look. If it was free and you outfit used you might break even, should be fun anyway.

[md7a]

Migizi - Welcome to the SeaRunner world!


@Cavalier is right on - drill the hole. On my '31 the low point is under the washroom cabinsole, which is coincidentally a good place for thru-hulls. If you drill carefully it might serve a second purpose someday.


BTW - looks to me like a 34; the forward wing berths on the '31 are smaller; the bilge under the washroom sole looks deeper than on my '31, and I think I see an extra bulkhead at the stem.

[catsketcher]

Congrats on the Searunner. I am interested in if she is a 34. A quick run if the tape would be good. Don't 34s have a double and one single instead of two singles?

A couple of thoughts. As for cutting her up. I would ask John Marples and highway authorities about maximum heights. It may be possible to cut only one wing off and put her on a flat bed at 90 degrees. Less work maybe but she will be high, though that may be no hassle.

If you only have to move her a little bit you could do a sneaky run with a friendly trucker. A move at night might be fine and a lot cheaper. I only had to move my cat about 200 metres a few times and just told my neighbours.

The split chines may be fine if split by ice. Get into the split and probe around with a screwdriver. If all seems good then expand the split with wedges, insert epoxy glue mix, then pull shut with lots of screws. After all is done then fill holes with epoxy filler (always epoxy) and then use 450 gm double bias tape inside and out - 2 layers and she will be bulletproof. Don't use the glass Jim talks of in his manual - oh yeah and download the manual if you don't already have it.

As for ply being bad - poke it with a screwdriver and keep cutting until the inner veneers are solid and dry. It aint rocket science. Then use a butt block and reinstall a new piece of ply. Ply is very forgiving this way and butt blocks are nice and easy. Again, use epoxy, it doesn't have to be WEST, although 105 is a good resin, I use a much cheaper one and although it does not lay out as well for saturation, it is fine for all other uses.

I would also consider a few parts of the boat as designed. Consider updating to newer (and cheaper) alternatives. One example is composite fittings and attachments. Try to not bolt anything through ply. I use strands of uni to stitch fittings on. This reduces bolt holes in ply and because bolts and ply don't really like each other bad things can happen. I have composite new attachments, jib tracks, motor mounts, motor mount hinges, genoa block attachments and more. You can update the accessories and she will be better, cheaper and look more modern too. But composite chainplates are the real deal and if you aren't good with metal, will save lots of money and time.

Keep us updated!

[catsketcher]

Oh as for twisting, she almost certainly isn't. But you will have to get her exactly level when rebuilding. For me to check I would set up string lines over the float bows and sterns. Check they are level and parallel and then drop measurements down to the bows and sterns. String lines are really useful although you could do something similar with a good laser level and a good jack with blocks.

[catsketcher]

On reflection, string lines are the go.

Make a temporary stand at each bow and stern, like builders do when setting out. Measure up the same amount from each bow and stern say 1000mm and set the string lines from one bow to one stern and another string line on the other side set up exactly the same.

Then get away to the side and look at the lines. They should be parallel. It doesn't matter if the boat is tilted, the lines should be parallel.

[Cavalier MK2]

Thanks Phil, good suggestions. I think Will is right, it does look like a 34.
I like the one ama removal idea, I did see a Nicol modified so 1 wing and ama could be bolted on or off, putting the ama and mast on deck let them use the narrow French canals.
Market wise nobody get upset about value estimations, a new build is a opportunity to get what you want in a boat and pay as you go along. On the used market ply Tris don't command big prices, recently a CC35 up here was being marketed in the mid $20s, in the water sailable. Larger CCs probably will take time selling to break $100.
Jim Brown did have a plan provision for wing deck frame joints for when boats had to be assembled and finished off at the launch site. Certainly John Marples would be a help and worth the call.