Trimaran - Especially Searunner - Owners

[Jimske]

Originally Posted by md7a

Randy -

That's a great-looking dodger on Zaida. What was the frame like? Your build or commercial?

Yeah, very nice set up!

[Cavalier MK2]

I've suggested runabout windscreens off junk boats before to get that Searunner plans look. When I redo mine I'll use a wood frame and laminate in the appropriate curve for the plexiglass thickness. I have a hard dodger with a removable roof on the Nicol which works well. Right now the front is still glass and flat but it is on the list....

[Jimske]

Originally Posted by Cavalier MK2

I've suggested runabout windscreens off junk boats before to get that Searunner plans look. When I redo mine I'll use a wood frame and laminate in the appropriate curve for the plexiglass thickness. I have a hard dodger with a removable roof on the Nicol which works well. Right now the front is still glass and flat but it is on the list....

Is the "runabout windscreen" a type of boat windshield or are you just saying look around on junk boats for one that might work?

Looking at Zaida's windshield aft the mast and the plan forward the mast means I got to make a choice. Both look good and both would tie into my bimini top. I'll post a picture of it later this week when I put it up.

J

[Cavalier MK2]

Runabout is a generic term for those powerboats from around 14-20 feet that are used for "running about" skiing, fishing, boat rides etc....so yes look around at the junk boats, there are quite a few around.

[Jimske]

Yeah good idea. Thanks.

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[Randy]

It is a regular dodger with stainless tube frame. It worked well, not sure where the prior owners had it built either San Diego or Santa Cruz where the boat was built. For me it's really important for long distance sailing to get out of the sun and wind. A hard dodger is more durable but seems pretty difficult to design it such that it adds to the aesthetics.


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[sassarassa]

Thoughts of Selling

Hi all ... I have been mulling this over for a while so I thought I would run the idea of selling past you fine people first.

The time has come to start thinking about moving on and buying something bigger or god forbid, moving ashore. Please don't hate me for saying this

So I thought I would start here and see if there are any potential Searunner buyers over my side of the pond (East Coast Australia, Brisbane) who have always wanted a SR37 but never thought one would be available.

Especially not one that has had so much work done to it ... a fantastic 2 pac paint job, near new yanmar 30hp and full drive train refurb, completely new mast and all standing and running rigging in 2011, replumbed, rewired and is currently lived on so all systems are in daily use. :big grin:

Pics of the 2013 refit.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=eca82640b8

Random pics before and after refit.

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1&l=9ee9315c59

Search on youtube for searunner 37 pegasos and you will find a little video of Pegasos sailing. (before the refit so paint is looking ordinary)

If you are interested or know someone, the deal is you/they need to call me and have a chat. How new are the sails - call. Whats the price - call. What colour is the sea water impeller - call.

A 5 min conversation is equal to 5hrs of communicating via message boards or email. So respect my time and I'll return the favour

Anyway, thanks for your attention and sorry for interrupting the flow of this thread.

cheers,

Jon "Pegasos" SR37'

+61 412 448 120
or Skype username "qaconcepts"

[Boatguy30]

A bit wonk, but for anyone considering power options on the smaller boats. The 15" extension for the circa 1968-1973 OMC 4 horses are currently available again. Mine came complete with March '69 printed instructions. Will be using as a semi experiment as the backup wing engine on the Vardo. The kit is easy to change back to the short shaft for dinghy use so 2 vintage motors in good shape can power the dinghy and give redundancy 2 motors for less than 80lbs. $150 from boats.net

[slowbat]

Voyage of the Labyrinth | A conservation adventure series about conservation and humanitarian work in SE Asia



Voyage of the Labyrinth:: 4 people doing what they should be doing on a 40' Searunner!

[magentawave]

Cool, and thanks for sharing! And here's a report from the previous owners about being caught in Force 10 conditions: S/T-18 Trimaran, Searunner | Victor Shane's Drag Device Data Base

Originally Posted by slowbat

Voyage of the Labyrinth | A conservation adventure series about conservation and humanitarian work in SE Asia

Voyage of the Labyrinth:: 4 people doing what they should be doing on a 40' Searunner!

[farotherside]

so here's a hard one to swallow...

a couple of years back, I painted my '37 with latex house paint. turned out to be kind of a nightmare... even after scuffing the epoxy primer with 60-grit paper, the latex is more of a "skin" than a paint, and when scratched, water gets underneath and bubbles outwards. it's also a serious pain to keep clean, and I'm pretty sure the weight of all that paint and powdered marble for anti-skid isn't doing us any favours either.

I'm planning to move back to my boat within a year or so, and I'm slowly gathering the parts, skills, tools etc to bring her back up to cruising condition... I want to do a new paint job with two-part paint, but that will mean stripping all the old latex off first.

Has anyone ever stripped latex paint off an epoxy-primer surface? Using sandpaper is a fool's errand, it just gums up the paper in less than a foot. I'm not against putting in a couple of days with acetone/MEK and a scraper (and lung protection), but what works the best/fastest?

[Cavalier MK2]

Geez Drew, after you used interior paint and heavy nonskid to give latex a bad name I'm hesitant to give any suggestions but here goes......How about trying a heat gun in a small area to see if it is a easy lift? The paint you used tends to stay soft which clogs the paper but it might help it peel with heat. If you go the chemical route try small areas first after reading the label.

For a comparison I'm putting a quick coat on my hulls after seven years and because I used good exterior a light sand is all in needed to be ready.....

Try not to inhale them vapors.....

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by drew23

so here's a hard one to swallow...

a couple of years back, I painted my '37 with latex house paint. turned out to be kind of a nightmare... even after scuffing the epoxy primer with 60-grit paper, the latex is more of a "skin" than a paint, and when scratched, water gets underneath and bubbles outwards. it's also a serious pain to keep clean, and I'm pretty sure the weight of all that paint and powdered marble for anti-skid isn't doing us any favours either.

I'm planning to move back to my boat within a year or so, and I'm slowly gathering the parts, skills, tools etc to bring her back up to cruising condition... I want to do a new paint job with two-part paint, but that will mean stripping all the old latex off first.

Has anyone ever stripped latex paint off an epoxy-primer surface? Using sandpaper is a fool's errand, it just gums up the paper in less than a foot. I'm not against putting in a couple of days with acetone/MEK and a scraper (and lung protection), but what works the best/fastest?

Dah, Get some paint remover made for latex. Acetone ? MEK? Do some research. Put on googles if you even go close to MEK peroxide a couple of parts/ mil can blind you.

[Jimske]

Originally Posted by Cadence

Dah, Get some paint remover made for latex. Acetone ? MEK? Do some research. Put on googles if you even go close to MEK peroxide a couple of parts/ mil can blind you.

Yeah try and stay away from the methyl chloride or caustic soda. The heat gun maybe be too tedious.

If the latex is the cheap kind (no acrylics) and is a thinlayer you may even get away with ctiri strip (but I doubt it). Try a sample.

The problem with strippers is wet time. As soon as they dry they're done. My vote would be one of the peel aways. Google it. It's everywhere. They sell a sample kit so you can test #1 and # 7. The nice thing about it is that you cover it with a membrane which keeps it wet longer - sometimes over night. Of course you can cover ANY stripper. Methy chloride will work the fastest but again, last resort and keep it off your skin and right . . . out of your eyes!

How about hiring someone to soda blast the surface? By the time you buy the stripper and do the work it maybe the best solution - get some estimates.

J

[blewett_john]

My boat was a complete mess with layers of fairing putty up to 1/2" thick and an extra layer of glass over the original paint job. I used a paint shaver pro (Paint Removal Tools | Paintshaver.com) to strip the hulls. This tool can do some serious damage but if you are careful it works fantastic.

For the decks I found that the heat gun and putty knives worked the best. It was slow going, and a Searunner 37 has a huge deck, but effective. I also sanded the decks after the heat gun with a 6" orbital sander with heavy duty 60 grit paper. I plan on painting the decks with kiwigrip so some of the deep scratches shouldn't be a problem, however, the end result is quite smooth.

To paint the hulls I used two coats of Interlux Pre-coat primer and two coats of Pettit Easypoxy one-part polyurethane topside and deck enamel, semi-gloss. Looks great, and in the words of Jim Brown, "you'd have to be crazy to put a high gloss paint job on a cruising boat."