Squeaky daggerboard

[Dave852]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

Soft rubber wedge between board and deck opening?

The bottom would still tend to work though I suppose?


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by Dave852

The bottom would still tend to work though I suppose?


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

Maybe. Depends on details of locker/boards I suspect.

Of course, if you ever managed to suck that wedge down into the locker, like forgetting it was there and dropping the board, that would not be good, but I bet the board wouldn't sqeak any more! ;-)

[Sardean]

Thanks everyone. We'll experiment with some of those ideas and no doubt sleep a little more soundly


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[44'cruisingcat]

Originally Posted by Dave852

Wow, that's a lot of tolerance. I put three coats of regular bottom paint on mine and could not get it back in. Had to remove the paint and use the spray can bottom paint instead.


Sent from my iPhone using Cruisers Sailing Forum

Yeah, I did build in a lot of clearance. Bob Oram, the designer, strongly advised me to. Once you start glassing in the case to the hull, you reduce the clearance, then there's all the fairing and paint, antifoul...

Nothing worse than finding the board won't fit the case. If you make it a little loose it's easy to pack out the gap.

Back to the OP's question - our board doesn't squeak, but sometimes it can knock. I've found tensioning the uphaul line against the downhaul line can reduce it a lot.

But my first suggestion was serious. You really don't need boards down at anchor, only for upwind sailing.

[44'cruisingcat]

Originally Posted by colemj

Probably need some board to motor more than 100% of the time…

Mark

Shh! That was my secret.

[Henryh]

You can get various size wedges from Clark Rubber, they work for us.

Henry

[Sardean]

Originally Posted by 44'cruisingcat

Yeah, I did build in a lot of clearance. Bob Oram, the designer, strongly advised me to. Once you start glassing in the case to the hull, you reduce the clearance, then there's all the fairing and paint, antifoul...

Nothing worse than finding the board won't fit the case. If you make it a little loose it's easy to pack out the gap.

Back to the OP's question - our board doesn't squeak, but sometimes it can knock. I've found tensioning the uphaul line against the downhaul line can reduce it a lot.

But my first suggestion was serious. You really don't need boards down at anchor, only for upwind sailing.

Thanks for all the great ideas. Tensioning the uphaul and downhall seems to do the trick

Sent from my D6653 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[2Hulls]

The previous posters are right - if your boards are making noise, raise them because if they're making noise it means they're not loaded and you don't need them. When your boards are needed they will be loaded and can't rattle or squeak. On a cruising cat there's no need to use only the leeward board when sailing to windward - why not get the lift from two and share the load? Plus, using both boards symmetrically eliminates the need to raise one and lower the other during a tack when you've got better things to do and the friction from loading makes raising and lowering difficult.

Dave

[Sardean]

thanks dave, probably opening up a can of worms here but my cat only has a starboard daggerboard, and the hulls draw .7m or 2 and a bit feet so i use daggerboard to help point and on a reach but not down wind, it seems to do the job nicely. we have only had yacht for 4 months so am very much learning, i will use daggerboard less and see how she sails.
Cheers and thanks again for all the tips
Dean


Sent from my iPad using Cruisers Sailing Forum

[2Hulls]

Originally Posted by Sardean

my cat only has a starboard daggerboard, and the hulls draw .7m or 2 and a bit feet so i use daggerboard to help point and on a reach but not down wind

One is better than none, IMHO. The designer chose a compromise and the performance difference may be very subtle between one board or two.

Just experiment what works best. For me, the boards become necessary with AWA around 60* and less.

Dave

[44'cruisingcat]

I did read somewhere that Roger Shuttleworth did some tank testing and found that for a cruising boat, one board could actually be faster.


You really only need to have two boards if you're going to be flying a hull. But cruisers don't do that. He found that a single, slightly bigger board can produce as much lift, but with less drag.

[Sardean]

Thanks that is great info. We are very happy with our fastback 43's performance and have not noticed any negatives with 1 daggerboard yet for cruising. I did find it strange when I bought the cat but no one I spoke to thought it would be a problem.

Sent from my D6653 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[admiralslater]

I have the same problem on Outremer 45 original style. The boards bang even going to weather will need wedge on a stick

[SVNeko]

We used thick Teflon tapes in the trunks. Stopped any motion and makes the boards go up and down like slickorice.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app