Seized Allen Bolt Removal - Your Method?

[NPCampbell]

Bronze typically has a higher thermal expansion coefficient than most common steels (including stainless) so heat should work. Additionally, grade 3 & 5 bolts and almost all stainless grades are readily drillable with a high speed steel bit + coolant.

[coastalexplorer]

AS a thread such as this continues into three or more pages ...Does anyone seeing it for the first time ever go back and read it from the beginning? before chiming in??


Having followed this thread right through myself. My observation is that the 'new' contributions to the thread are by now repeating all that has gone before. Certainly I agree one should try ALL the least aggressive methods first.

After the application of heat and lubricants already listed...

To all those who favour the IMPACT methods. I say again last resort...Before snapping the fastener.

In removing screw threads that have been in situ for many decades especially in a marine environment. I still maintain that using a good fitting tool and application of torque via a breaker bar or length of steel tube slipped over the end of an Allan Key: It is still the best method to load it up and wait several minutes for it to give way. If that does not happen? slightly increase the torque load and wait again> Have patience and give it time, IF it is ever going to move before it shears..this is the way to find out.


IMPACT is liable to snap it.!!

[RaymondR]

I have had success with socket head cap screw by cutting of an allen key so it is only a straight portion then gripping it with a set of vice grips and whilst applying a little torque hammering the top of the allen key.

[AKA-None]

Many years ago I worked in a shipyard. You heat the base or the nut, not the screw. You heat it rapidly because you don’t want the screw / bolt to get hot. It it does then it also expands. But once you have the threaded part or nut hot then you try unscrewing the bolt. Once you start you do not stop. You want the bolt to be as cold as possible and the threads / nut to be hot and expanded. The heat will also break any thread locker and may break any rust / corrosion loose.
The problem with an ez-out is almost every one uses too small a size. You want to drill almost to the root of the bolt threads. There really shouldn’t be much bolt left when you put the ez-out in.
Ps impact driver is a handy tool. One you smack with a hammer not a pneumatic wrench.

[NorthCoastJoe]

I agree with most. Heat the surrounding metal not the bolt as fast as you can.
Use a hand held impact tool with at least a 3 pound hammer the bigger hammers work better with hand impact tools. Let it cool and repeat. If you start having to drill it out do no use an easyout until the bolt is almost gone. My experience with frozen bolts is if I can not get it free the easy out is going to break. Better off drilling it all out and hela coil it or rethread to a larger bolt size. My father once used this method and also chilled the bolt ( with a blast of CO2 )after heating the surrounding metal it worked.

[Rendova]

The 50-50 mixture of transmission & acetone worked for me. I had mixed well and applied liberally. I tapped the bolts with a hammer and kept re-applying. I wrapped the area with a saturated rag and then covered with plastic wrap. Let sit and redo.

[Shaneesprit]

one very firm strike with a hammer / after soaking in penetrating oil for a day ( a week if you can )
Go and buy a Snap-on Hex socket the last thing you need is a cheap tools ( they always fail or round off the edges )
you can also add vise grips to the bolt head to strengthen the bolt head while using the Hex socket.
it would be good to see a photo

[Robert Jansen]

A soldering gun or iron is a good alternative for point source application of heat. I have used both with success removing allen screws secured with red loctite. If a power source is unavailable or inaccessible, cordless versions exist, but the most powerful versions are the old fashioned Weller irons. Electrical safety protocols obviously apply.

[Bentwings]

The weasel piss is the best penetrating oil made. Numerous tests have proved this.

A heat gun or hair dryer is a waste of time....simply not hot enough. If it’s a stainless bolt more than likely you can drill it if you have a cobalt drill and good cutting oil. If the drill bit slips or does not cut you will work harden the cutting surface and it gets harder to break through. Go slow with lots of pressure to keep it cutting. It sound like you have dissimilar metal corrosion. More than likely you will be tearing the softer metal threads out. It’s going to be tough to get the metals unstuck. Try as hard as possible to get the bolt out but I’m guessing you will either break it or strip the socket. Then I’d cut the rest off flush with the surface. Carefully center punch a dent so you can start the drill. As noted drill very close to the minor thread diameter. With luck you can pick the remaining threads out. If you use an ez out, above all don’t break it. There are few metals harder than easy outs. Some times drilling with a left hand drill helps. I’ve had lots or bolts come out with these.

[captwylie]

I would slide a short piece of 1/2 inch pipe over the end of the allen wrench and put a strain on it while tapping on the top of the allen wrench with a hammer. This has worked many times for me. Heat would be my last resort, as some of you know, bronze and stainless are both very prone to gualding when heated.

[Jetx]

I recently ran across this stuff, but haven't tried it yet. Anyone else have any experience -- good or bad -- with it?

CRC Freeze Off

[MistyCat]

Originally Posted by pstadt

I confirmed a fear today that the new sail drive boots won't stretch enough to slide over the Volvo folding prop blades, but they come off in a fairly uncomplicated manner.....

Except when the retaining bolts are seized to the bronze hubs. I was afraid of wringing them off with too much torque today, so I simply cleaned the areas as best I could and plan on applying healthy quantities of penetrating fluid as the next step....

Unless you can recommend a better approach? Please, suggest away!

Pat

Another technique in addition to heat, impact and chemicals (e.g. PB Blaster) is to turn the bolt in a little bit before you try to turn it out. Sometimes that will help 'unfreeze' the corrosion.

[Juggerknot]

Well, every possible option has been mentioned repeatedly so I am just awaiting the outcome... Have you got em out and if so, by what method?

[pstadt]

Juggerknot and all, sorry have been sidetracked with other issues and haven't attempted to loosen them yet. I will post results as soon as I have them! Pat

[Juggerknot]

Thanks for the update Pat, eagerly awaiting good news from you once you've tackled em =)