I have been wrestling with an extensive
refit of my Snowgoose 34 and have opened every closed section of the
boat. I imagine the center nacelle of your vessel is similar in design/construction. If you sit yourself amidships as you read this, you will be better able to follow from the bow to the stern and make sense of what I've written.
The nacelle runs the length of the
boat. The two forward
deck lockers have no floorboard on the nacelle section, i.e., the V-keel is visible. A bulkhead separates the two lockers, and another bulkhead separates the aftermost
deck locker from the cabin; moving aft behind that bulkhead, no floorboard covers the nacelle. In my boat, that bulkhead is the forward section of cabinetry, and another bulkhead is mounted about a foot or so further aft and is the opening face of the cabinetry. From that point aft, a floorboard covers the nacelle and is interrupted by a bulkhead amidships, and another at the aft cabin bulkhead, which adjoins the cockpit. The covered nacelle continues to another bulkhead (in between the bulkhead a cockpit locker is created), which adjoins the
engine compartment. The nacelle is not covered in the engine compartment, which creates a rather deep space below the engine. Some people have added a floorboard below the engine. I did but removed it on this iteration of changes to the boat.
Years ago, I glassed over the
wood bulkheads in the forward lockers, where the
anchoring gear is stowed. Each locker has a drain in the
keel (well above the waterline). However, I recognized that over time water could settle against the
teak plywood bulkheads (imagine
teak plywood today?!)in the V, and could create some deterioration.
Nevertheless, I ignored for too long what was happening in the
interior cabin during several years of
storage on the hard.
I discovered that over time, either from
condensation or small
leaks from the main cabin windows, a small amount of water had settled in the un-floorboarded V-section of the cabinetry and had soaked through the
wood and made its way into the adjoining floorboarded section of the main cabin.
After opening my nacelle floorboards, I discovered some water in the section between the cabinetry bulkhead face and the amidships bulkhead. I removed nearly full width sections - two feet long in the forward section and about three-feet long in the aft section. I left adequate material on the sides to allow for glassing the cut pieces back into place. I used a mirror and light to exam every inch of the exposed interiors. I found no possible location for ingress of water except at the bulkheads, and perhaps where the teak floorboards were tabbed.Every other location was glassed and I found no "access openings."
I epoxied the exposed wood on the underfloor bulkheads and glassed over the exposed topside teak floorboards. I preferred painting instead of taking care of the teak.
In my boat, no
bilge holes allowed water to drain from section-to-section in the nacelle. The original owner of the boat had the boat built under Lloyds' supervision for an A1A rating. So sections of the nacelle and other compartments were "sealed" to add buoyancy. It also helped seal the engine compartment from the
interior cabin of the boat.
I might add here, that nacelle bulkheads on some of the Prouts were not well-sealed. Coupled with a flooded engine compartment (bilge pump failure, failed water hose, poor trim/loading, etc.) water could actually flood the cockpit nacelle
storage locker. I have seen it happen with my own eyes, and I have spoken with others who have seen it, and read of other reports. A poorly sealed cabin bulkhead could also allow water into the cabin nacelle.
I have pondered adding some small
inspection hatches to the two cabin floorboard sections of the nacelle, but I have my hands full with more pressing tasks. The forward section would not offer much meaningful storage, but the aft section would provide an excellent location for an
autopilot compass – low, centerline, free from nearby metal and
electrical cables.
I hope that this first-hand info might be of help to you.
BTW, another fellow is rebuilding a Prout of a newer vintage and he might also be able to offer up some info too. I marvel at the extent of
work he has accomplished and shared in his messages and texts; I'm moving years slower. I can't
recall the topic, but I'll retrieve it and post it here.
Regards, Roger