Prout Escale 39 - Window Leaks

[Flying-Fish]

Hi All,

New guy here. I've poked around for a few years, but never signed up till today. I remember reading a really good procedure someone came up with to fix leaking Prout windows a few years ago. I've searched every way but sideways, and can't find that thread (or article). My Escale 39 has a lot (LOT) of flex between the two hulls and I'm finding it impossible to seal my front 4 windows.

I removed, cleaned and reinstalled them about 2 years ago. They had a little water leak, but not a ton. When I removed them, they were installed with a very gooey black substance (butyl?). I'm guessing it was sticky enough to flex and not break the seal between the plastic window and window frame in the hull. I reinstalled them using a polyurethane caulk (similar to silkaflex) that stayed flexible. Due to the large hull flex it didn't take long for the sealant to come unstuck from either the window or the hull (or both). During the first trip after resealing them they leaked like a sieve. Really, really bad. I've tried a few fixes and have minimized the leaking, but the only way I've found to keep the forward matress from getting soaked is to keep a tarp over it and let the water run to the bilge.. (yea terrible long term solution...)

Anyway. I'm in the groove of making some other repairs and have "fix windows" at the top of the list.

I'd really like to find that posting from someone with the same issue a few years ago. They appeared to have a clear description as to how to fix the issue. Again, my issue isn't just a seal leaking, it's the hull flex. Any silkaflex, 3M etc etc, is going to eventually pull away from the window it flexes so much.

I've been thinking of ways to solve the issue and the best I think so far is to use a 1/2 inch wide X 1/4 inch thick closed cell neoprene strip attached to both the window and the window frame groove on the hull with 3m double sided tape (the super stick stuff). Squirt in a little liquid butyl caulk with each screw and nut. Finish the install with silkaflex in the gap around the window just for esthetics. My thoughts are that if there's any leakage, I can easily tighten the window fasteners. Closed cell neoprene should flex with the boat, and provide a water tight seal. That's my plan anyway.

Thoughts? (or better recommendations are very appreciated).

Cheers,
Jeff

Redington Shores, FL (Near St Pete)

[smj]

Maybe try this new thread.

https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums...ws-242799.html

[Flying-Fish]

smj,

Thanks for the quick reply. I had read that thread and he's having a different issue. My windows are held in with screws, but due to flexing of the hull, the seal breaks on the sealant.

There's a procedure I read a few years ago that's specific to my problem and how flexing affects the Prout front windows. The guy created a diagram with how to install a seal in the window recess of his Prout.

I really think I'm onto a good solution with the closed cell neoprene, double sided 3M tape and Silkaflex, but would really like to hear from other Prout owners on how they solved the problem before I go to the time and expense (just to experiment).

Cheers,
Jeff

[Jeannius]

Hi Flying-Fish

The Prout Owners association, which you may have seen, has a number of threads on the issue. Very, very common occurrence.

Anyway, here's a link to a thread by a guy who claims to have solved the problem... Leaky Windows - Prout Owners Association

[Flying-Fish]

Jeannius,

Thanks for the info. I signed up on that board last week, but it appears that no one is managing that site any longer. I've sent emails to the admin, but as of yet no one has approved my registration.

I'm hoping to find out if that person that tried the neoprene was successful in stopping their leaks. I'm researching neoprene rolls now on Amazon and am at the moment planning on doing one of the front windows with that method. The drawback though is I'll need to be in some rough seas to see if the windows flex, but don't leak. Hmm. I'm thinking that out as I type and the windows couldn't be any worse than they are now. Maybe going ahead and doing all the front windows with neoprene gaskets is best. My only concern with that method is sealing the screw holes. The last time I sealed the windows with polyurethane sealant / caulk, the screws were the first place to start leaking.

I'm definitely still open to any other ideas or suggestions.

Cheers,
Jeff

[geoffr]

You may want to post your question on the Facebook group - it is much more active than the old Association Page.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1690914667837316.

Following as our windows need replacement.....

[Flying-Fish]

Geoffr,

Thanks for the info!! I didn't know that group existed. Just requested to join.

Cheers,
Jeff

[john2445]

That link didn't work for me; this one did. Leaky Windows - Prout Owners Association

I have an Event 34 in Tampa and also haven't found a method that works. I thought the problem was thermal expansion, not flexing.

Rather than a tarp on the inside, I use aluminum duct tape on the outside. Just at the leaks. Looks bad but stays dry.

The wood damage on mine is limited to the veneer peeling. I have stripped the veneer and painted the wood but not near the windows. I may try stain rather than paint.

I sure wish the windows weren't curved; make it a lot simpler. Actually I'd put in glass.

[Flying-Fish]

John2445,

Sorry to laugh, but that's funny about the aluminum duct tape. I did the same thing!

My first voyage out with my newly sealed windows 2 years ago started leaking before 10 miles into the trip. Had to leave in rough weather to make our destination on schedule. Sailing South we stopped in Venice and I had the brilliant idea of putting the aluminum duct tape on. I knew it would stick and it did. My hull flexing though... Shredded the aluminum tape right along the window edge. It basically flexed the tape to death within 5 miles of leaving Venice. I think it would have worked great for a temp fix at dock, but 5 foot rollers ate that tape up quick.

Yea the curved windows look sleek, but boy are they a pain the A to deal with leaking. I dread the $ when they need to be replaced.

All my interior headliner and window frames were removed by the previous owner so luckily the water hasn't hurt anything accept the new forward cabin mattress. As soon as I can get the leaks stopped permanently I plan on recovering and reinstalling all the ceiling panels and reinstalling all the window trim. (I'm sorta also getting tired of seeing my headliner panels and window frames piled up in my living room as well).

Cheers,
Jeff

[ShadyLady]

I have owned a Prout since 1991 and experienced several window leaks and cracks (heat expansion and stress impact) for the first 10 years. In 1998 I installed 4 opening hatches in place of the front windows which wasn't a particularly easy or cheap solution but it really enhanced our years of cruising in the tropics.
The long side windows continued to be a problem with sealant failures due to the expansion and UV issues. In 2001 I replaced each of long side windows with 3 smaller 10mm acrylic windows. I filled all of the hull bolt holes and the new windows have a minimum 30mm overlap with a minimum 3mm sealant thickness. The top of the 3 windows are capped with a continuous teak strip approx 50 x 35mm from memory and the bottom of the windows are capped with 3 separate similar teak strips. The wooden caps are sealed and through bolted (not through the windows) and are cut to allow a 3mm thickness of sealant on all 3 sides of the window edges. It is easy to ensure adequate sealant thickness by using small 3mm spacers cut off a rubber strip. The wooden caps completely protect the sealant from UV and the 3mm minimum thickness and smaller window size results in no expansion window sealant failures. Having floating windows eliminates the risk of cracks at the screw holes and if the windows do fail in extreme conditions, then the plan is to use the teak rails to easily attach storm boards. A similar plan would definitely work for the front windows.
I haven't had a window leak from the side windows in the last 19 years! The opening hatches have had their own dramas with seals and rivet failures responsible for some leaks in heavy weather.