Fxykty. This is a bit off topic for the thread, but...
Why 24v? Because there's a LOT of ways to do the same thing, but doubling the voltage, cuts the amperage draw, or the load in half. I can use a 24v step down
charger and keep a 12v
battery to take care of things that can't be easily converted like nav,
autopilot, usb
charging ports, etc which eliminates a lot of complexity. The
lighting,
bilge pumps,
windlass motors, and
refrigeration can easily be converted to 24v, I can put in a stronger
windlass without having to re-wire it, run a 24v
watermaker, and enjoy less amperage draw. Also, many manufacturers make 24v
solar panels and charge controllers, and the step up
charging controller for the 12v alternators to the 24v bank makes swapping to externally regulated alternators unnecessary.
I've priced out the entire system, and added a 20% cost overrun in it and it came out just over $12K, including a BMS, new
lighting, bilges, charge controllers, 24v breakers, etc. And that's using about 14.5Kwh of
batteries. Basically the equivalent of 1200AH @ 12v.
Also, the 24v 40gph SeaWater Pro
water maker is about $5K.
You said you had to re-wire the
boat for a LFP conversion? I don't know who told you that, but they were wrong. None of your loads, (refrigerators, pumps, nav, lights, washer/dryer,
water heater, etc.) suddenly started drawing more
current because of your
batteries. Your
wiring is rated to handle a certain amount of amperage. The only reason you would ever need to change the
wiring is if you INCREASED the load passing through it, like if you went from a 2kw
inverter to a 5kw
inverter...
But, as Abraham Lincoln once said.
"Everything you read on the
internet is true."