Just Purchased a Crowther 34 Tri Today!

[Cavalier MK2]

I moved out to my mooring from the beach for those Northwinds. The cold season hopscotch is nigh,regularly I adjust things for expected winds. If you are open from the the North, move and anchor out to save the grief. In a really big wind we'll anchor in a drying cubbyhole inlet on all corners to be safe.

If the bare wood is exposed slap on some duct tape till things get repaired. Jim Brown gives excellent lectures on preserving the sanctity of the membrane on a wood boat so call him up if you don't believe me.

[senormechanico]

Apologies for thread drift, but I have found Gorilla Tape to be vastly superior to any brand of duct tape.

[Sand crab]

The damage is all above the waterline so it's staying pretty dry. I'm on a side tie now so I'm much more protected. They told me I'm not supposed to do any work until the adjuster sees it tomorrow. After that I'll start. I have Gorilla tape.
The wind is supposed to get all the way to 6 mph today. Might actually sail the sailboat today.

[multihuler]

don't use your insurance for minor claims, a $2000 repair can be fixed by you for $100. If you use your multihull insurance you can kiss your policy good by and or you are making a mark against you, which will be used against you in the future,. save your insurance for a major incident. hopefully you don't have one.

[Cavalier MK2]

This time of year a blow dryer is a help getting rid of the damp before the epoxy.

[Sand crab]

I went out sailing yesterday for the first time. I clocked a record speed of 6.3 knots. I don't have wind instruments but it was pretty light. I figure I was going just about windspeed on a broad reach. We saw the weather moving in and it started to drizzle then sleet. I had a rough time backing into the slip this time. No matter what the offset motor keeps wanting to turn the boat. We ended up going in forward and then rotated the boat at the dock. It was raining harder when got to the car. I call that perfect timing.

I'm talking to a local guy about remote control for the kicker. I'll have to figure out a way to remove the motor because it's a major hassle installing this with the motor down on that bracket. There is also a 1990 Y9.9 with a remote on CL here but he wants $1650 and I'm thinking that's too much. I would attach this to the other side and have 2 motors. The PO kept it on a mooring so he didn't have all this tight maneuvering to do.

I meet the adjuster at 10 today. If it doesn't work out I'll see about unfiling a claim if that's possible.

[Scout 30]

A friend of mine has a 40' Wharram with an outboard. He installed a steering stick instead of a wheel for help with control when backing down. It works.

EZY-Glide Model 840 | EZY Stik 2 Complete Kit | Steering Kits

[multihuler]

call me. Stephen 775 8272786

[Cavalier MK2]

2 HT 9.9 yamahas is overkill, a trolling motor or 2hp with controls would be enough. I dock the easy way then handline around if I need to, pretty easy and lighter than another motor.

[admiralslater]

Originally Posted by Cavalier MK2

2 HT 9.9 yamahas is overkill, a trolling motor or 2hp with controls would be enough. I dock the easy way then handline around if I need to, pretty easy and lighter than another motor.

There was a buc 33 in our club that had twin 9. 9s. I don't agree that that it was over kill. When the wind is up you need both motors to be powerful enough to position the boat with very little way on, and although a little engine may do ok in light wind it would not handle heavy.

[ejlindahl]

I just bought an older short shaft Merc 3.3 hp because it is the lightest engine with a gear shift, but it only has neutral & forward unless you spin it around. It is only 27 lbs, just 3 lbs more than my trusty 1975 Evinrude 2 hp direct drive. The short is better for my use on the dink but the long shaft works ok on a dink and I suspect it will be better to use on your tri. Since you are buying this for maneuvering I'd recommend the long shaft. Better yet would be a full shifting engine, (fwd, neutral, reverse). But they are significantly heavier. I don't know who makes the lightest but I suspect is is the 1980s dependable Evinrude/Johnson 4.5/6/8hp two stroke, they are all the same motor/weight with different carburation. All 57 lbs. The long shaft will be a few more lbs. I have the 6 and I've never done any service to it in 25 years and it still runs great! I think you can get remote controls for them but that will be rare or expensive as a retrofit. Try ebay. Good luck.

Still hoping you can make it to our NWMA meeting Tues.....

Eric

[Cavalier MK2]

The Nicol is bigger than the Bucc, a 9.9 HT will power into 30+ knot winds, I don't need any more engine than that. Our low speed handling is good and predictable, might be the shallow keel, for sure it is worth trying things with the board up and down.

[bruceb]

SC, On my 24, I used a PVC pipe with a rope through it to steer the engine. Very simple and effective. I attached the rope at the back of the engine, ran it through the pipe to an eye on the back of the outboard rudder, then to a cleat on the tiller. With the line tight and cleated, the engine turned with the rudder, un-cleat it to release the link or tilt the engine. With the proper length of pipe, the engine is turned slightly inward and takes most of the load off the helm to run straight. Your engine is mounted pretty far outboard, so the pipe probably needs to be alloy, but something similar should work for you. I have used Hobie tiller connectors for similar setups.
Since my 33 has an inboard rudder, I was planing on using a standard outboard steering cable, but I have decided a bell crank and a push/pull link to the engine mounted at the side of the cockpit will be easier.
I was lucky, my 33 came with an electric start power tilt Honda 15, which is more than enough engine when propped correctly, but the 9.9 should be enough in most conditions.
B

[Sand crab]

Boat US contracts out the adjuster part. He was 15 minutes late and I called his office in Louisiana. He called me right back and said he was 3 1/2 hours away! WTF! He couldv'e let me know that before i went to the marina. We now have an appointment set up for 10:30 tomorrow.

Thanks for all the input on my motor issues. I do not turn this motor to steer at all. It's all supposed to happen with the rudder. And the way it's mounted turning it would be problematic except possibly with the Steering Stick. It came with a throttle extension which works OK but there's no gear shifting on it. I got a quote of about a boatbuck to install the remote assuming I pull the engine somehow and take it into the shop. The electrical connection wire is about $260 plus some extra parts but if I forego that and just have forward/neutral/reverse and throttle then the price is about half and less if I do it myself. I can reach down there to start and stop it and the choke is down there anyway so that's not a big deal. I'm looking online at new and used remotes but it seems like I'll need special clips and widgets to get the job done. What they are and the part # is a mystery.

I'm not committed to another motor but it sure would help. But that's gonna be more boatbucks aand it's gotta have a remote. And a Garelick hinged motor bracket. Used one for $140 here.

The weather is calling for about 5" rain in the next week so I got some time.

[bruceb]

SC, good luck with your engine issues, I am sure you will work something out.
Once mine is back in the water I will post some engine/steering photos. I am hoping to start launching sometime late next week.
I just use white duct tape over my nicks and dings and then fix them once or twice a season.
I am really interested in your thoughts on your tall main once you get it out in some wind.
Bruce