How do you stop (reduce) lines catching on Gull Striker?

[Marinegirl405]

Hi folks


Our Catamaran has a gull striker up front, and when flying our spinnaker the lines often catch on the hardware there (since there isn't a smooth line to prevent catching).



When we first purchased the boat, it had a sewn padded patch over the problem area which indeed helped. This has now worn away to uselessness and we need to replace it. Before we go ahead with something similar I wanted to reach out and see if there are better ideas out there?

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Marinegirl405

Hi folks

Our Catamaran has a gull striker up front, and when flying our spinnaker the lines often catch on the hardware there (since there isn't a smooth line to prevent catching).

When we first purchased the boat, it had a sewn padded patch over the problem area which indeed helped. This has now worn away to uselessness and we need to replace it. Before we go ahead with something similar I wanted to reach out and see if there are better ideas out there?

Just curious. Inside or outside jibes?


My striker has a smoother design, so that was not an issue. I wonder if something made from split PE tubing/pipe might be smoother.

[Marinegirl405]

Originally Posted by thinwater

Just curious. Inside or outside jibes?

I'm not 100% sure what you mean, but we don't have any pole - and the spinnaker and lines are all outside of the roller furling. Does that help? We cleat the most upwind line to the forward bow and the other goes back to the winch via a block towards the back of the boat.

[Simi 60]

Prodder.
Easy to do

[Marinegirl405]

Originally Posted by Simi 60

Prodder.
Easy to do

True... (maybe) - but I was hoping for a less pricey project

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by Marinegirl405

True... (maybe) - but I was hoping for a less pricey project

From what I see, fashioning something to provide an arch shaped cap over that may solve the issue. Look and see if a spreader boot might be made for your use?

[meirriba]

I guess you have an asymmetric spinnaker. If I am correct, the only true solution is a bowsprit. It costs, but you should look at the cost as a part of the total cost of the system (sail, roller or sock, turning blocks, etc).

[singlespeed]

I would consider going to the local thrift shop and buying a large leather pocketbook ( in most areas less than $10). Cut a large circle and drape over the top of the striker assembly. Mark holes as necessary to to lace the circle in place. Remove, punch out the holes, then replace and lace with quality small diameter line.

I used a piece of lycra backed neoprene from an old wet suit. Lasted less than a season in the sun.

[Simi 60]

Originally Posted by Marinegirl405

True... (maybe) - but I was hoping for a less pricey project

Old t shirt
Roll of gaffer tape.

[django37]

No problem

[thinwater]

Originally Posted by Marinegirl405

I'm not 100% sure what you mean, but we don't have any pole - and the spinnaker and lines are all outside of the roller furling. Does that help? We cleat the most upwind line to the forward bow and the other goes back to the winch via a block towards the back of the boat.

That is not what I meant. Does the spin clew pass outside the tack of the chute or inside the tack of the chute? We can see the tackline on the chute, but I can't see the lazy sheet. If the lazy sheet were lying on the tackline, that would be rigged for an outside jibe.


Is this an asymmetric chute? What specific line is fouling?



If you do outside jibes you won't foul. Inside jibes are not appropriate for cruising cats without prodders, and arguable either way with a prodder. Inside jibes only make sense for boats that are near or above windspeed through the jibe, which few are.



It is at least a partial fiction that a prodder is faster on a cruising cat when sailing deep. On fact, you can get more projected area by hauling the tack to windward.

[Tin Tin]

In the photo, if the windward line is catching the gull striker because your luff is too long or wind very light, then as noted above a 3ft piece of 3" PVC hose split along length wise and placed over the strut and wires , tape ends shut with rigging or duct tape.


With respect to lines catching when gybing, as I understand it Outside jibe is when the spinnaker sheet goes forward out to sea when gybing, and then sail blow outwards and is then hauled in on new angle. Inside is like a genoa/jib. Using an inside gybe mean the sheet is pulled in and often catches on things inside spinnaker luff/tack and the spinnaker can often wrap on the furled genoa.

[Palarran]

Regardless, I don't think you really can jibe this setup as the tack line is led to the windward hull's forward cleat. If you jibed, the sail would be totally to the lee of the boat.

I'd also guess what the OP is thinking about the line getting caught on the martingale is the tack line in general when going more upwind. It's really a problem that can only be solved by using a spinnaker pole.

Here is my set-up:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IaYnbYxjfg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IW-WZb-sF0&t=2s

[Tin Tin]

Originally Posted by Palarran

Regardless, I don't think you really can jibe this setup as the tack line is led to the windward hull's forward cleat. If you jibed, the sail would be totally to the lee of the boat.

I'd also guess what the OP is thinking about the line getting caught on the martingale is the tack line in general when going more upwind. It's really a problem that can only be solved by using a spinnaker pole.

We had an asymmetric with no pole the tack was attached to an adjustable bridle between the bows. The bridle allowed the tack to be raised and lowered, also shifted from bow to bow. The tack should ideally not be allowed to pass the forestay on a tight reach any way. If you centered the tack (or slightly to windward) and cranked down hard on the bridle it would hold the tack pretty stationary. If needed to free up the sail a bit with the tack locked down, ease the halyard.

[Palarran]

I've seen a lot of cat's do it that way but that's not what the picture shows. Also, you would have a hard time going closer than 90' apparent without the windward tack line rubbing across either the Martingale or the roller furler. If it's all you got, then it works, but it's better to have a prodder - IMO of course.