Quote:
Originally Posted by CatLove
Thanks for the details.
I only have doubts about the liquid tie bar thingy .
I have no practical experience with cat hydraulic steering long term and have no idea how good/bad the rudders realigning thru the liquid tie bar or otherwise can be or how it's done or how often .
I keep trying to figure a way to avoid the dual cylinders .
Maybe a sort of hybrid system with a single hydraulic cylinder that would move both rudders thru a mechanical arrangement , a mechanical tie bar of some sort or even a cable between the rudders may work.
Having hydraulic from steering wheel all the way to the rear where the single ram would be placed and transmit motion to the rudders via cable or tie bar may be much ebtter than cables all the way .
The question is, would it be good enough to warrant the compromise or would it introduce other problems
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I would honestly go hydraulic the whole way. It’s a cleaner looking install.
I don’t know your
boat exactly, but in my case, the rudders are aft of the bridge dec transom. The only way to connect those with a bar would be to have a bar aft of the bridge
deck transom between each
hull. And that’s ugly in my opinion. It would also interfere with my
dinghy davits. That’s what my plans originally had.
Otherwise, you would have to have a complicated wire system from each individual
hull transom, through the bridge
deck transom connecting them. Still pretty annoyingto install.
The install is a lot easier to just run the hydraulic lines and have two Rams . It is also cleaner and looks good.
The liquid tie bar is fairly essential. I would say after 50-100 hours or so it’s good to realign. You don’t have to. But I’m a bit of a perfectionist with that. Realigning is very simple. All you have to do is stop in some
water that is calm. Center one of the rudders by turning the wheel. Open the tie bar valve, take your hand and move the other
rudder so it is also centered. Then lock down the valve. Done.