drying out hulls

[Suijin]

The seller's description of the issue is deliciously vague, and you would not get much clarity on either the extent or the required remedy until the boat was hauled and work was started. If the moisture readings are consistently high over a large percentage of the hulls, you're probably looking at having them peeled back to the glass or even a bit more and waiting as long as it takes for the readings to fall to within acceptable levels. There is "stripped" and then there is "stripped" and the difference between one and the other can be tens of thousands of dollars.

Run.

[boatpoker]

Originally Posted by FLLCatsailor

I agree with you about failure when boats are not dry to begin with. On newer boats it is still a good idea to add a barrier coat IMO... I mean you spend a couple hundred grand on the boat, what is a few thousand to ensure you will never have to worry about blistering?

Maybe, but ask the builder about the resin used in the hull. Polyester - yes but no one has ever heard of a vinylester or epoxy resin hull blistering so it would be a waste of money.

[Stumble]

Originally Posted by boatpoker

Maybe, but ask the builder about the resin used in the hull. Polyester - yes but no one has ever heard of a vinylester or epoxy resin hull blistering so it would be a waste of money.

My favorite in this line was a carbon fiber/epoxy boat I worked for, where the owner demanded we add an epoxy barrier coat. Three of us standing there arquing that there was no point, since the entire hull was a barrier coat.

Finally he left, we painted the boat with just bottom paint, and told him we barrier coated it anyway.

[colemj]

Originally Posted by Stumble

Finally he left, we painted the boat with just bottom paint, and told him we barrier coated it anyway.

And charged him for the barrier coat, right?

Mark

[Cheechako]

You need to find out if the hull is cored below the water. If so, and it has a bad blister problem I would run. Not sure there will be much glass left if you peel it. I thought my TPI Lagoon was solid below the waterline, but have heard mixed reports. I know it was solid where I replaced one seacock, but even if cored, maybe the builder didnt core at the valve locations.

[SunnySky]

Regarding epoxy barrier paint on an epoxy or vinyl-ester hull, my understanding (and please do correct me if I am definitely wrong..) is that in addition to providing protection from blistering in polyester boats, an epoxy barrier paint provides substantially better adhesion of the bottom paint to the hull? Like everything else in boats and life, there is a lot of compromise and balancing acts going on in paint formulation so formulation choices that improve the function of the bottom paint to prevent fouling (like high copper content) may hinder other paint properties (degree of elasticity or adhesion properties). Was told this by knowledgeable boat yard guys that were not selling me anything at the time and my epoxy catamaran has no problems with blistering of course and no initial barrier coat but the bottom paint seems to chip off far easier/in larger chips than it should. Could also have been other aspects of poor surface prep ranging from phenolic blush to simply not property sanding the surface though since those coats were done before I bought the boat I honestly don't know.. Have enough coats built up at this point that I figured the next time I haul out I would go all the way down to the original surface and do a barrier coat prior to bottom paint (paying particular attention to appropriate timing between each coat of paint). Is there a general consensus on vinyl ester/epoxy barrier coats?

[pbiJim]

Originally Posted by FLLCatsailor

It is always a good idea to have an epoxy barrier coat between the gelcoat and the bottom paint.

Would you care to please explain the benefits of the epoxy layer? In the past, I've always done one of two things. I've either scuff sanded the gel coat, applied primer, then bottom paint or else I've cleaned the gel coat with alcohol, then used a solvent type primer like Petit Skip-Sand, then applied bottom paint. My results have been generally good. If there are advantages to using the epoxy, I'd like to learn about them.

Thanks,
Jim

[GRIT]

If you run before the survey, then an enterprising fellow such as myself may buy it out from under you.

I would never suggest you make a decision without knowing all the facts. It's expensive to fix, if it's waterlogged, but it might be a great deal too. It all depends on the condition...

Cheers.
Paul.

[rancher44]

the boat is a 1991 lagoon .the price is 200k the hours on engines are 6k
the seller had the boat hauled when he found blisters , had the the boat tested and repaired or sealed . said the bottom did need to dry out and a new barrier coat applied -cost around 8k said he would deduct that from price

[colemj]

His offer is not generous. Unless that is a Lagoon 60+, or those are pesos and not euros or dollars, that is a very high price for a 1991 with 6,000 hrs on the engines.

L380's from the current decade with much fewer engine hours go for less.

Mark

[rancher44]

I thought the same

[GRIT]

$200,000 doesn't sound like a deal to me either.

Cheers.
Paul.

[Cheechako]

In 2001 my '92 Lagoon 42 sold for about $260. The engines were very low hours. The boat was loaded; watermaker, nav gear, furling, anchors, anchor, anchors, dingy and motor, Hydraulic Autopilot, max props, dual 125 amp alternators etcetc. Does it have the Yanmars or the Faux Perkins?
$200k for a '91 is way high. Is it TPI (USA) built or French built? Big difference from what I hear.

[rancher44]

Just a note . The guy had an estimate but what he didn't tell me was that the boat had been surveyed the month before and the people RAN from the deal. boat was just recently advertised on craigs list in Ft myers. I ran even though he got down to 190k

[lauraj]

Just an FYI for future readers:
We are in the middle of this exact repair on a 90' PDQ classic.
the crash compartments (bows and stern) were flooded and the culprit seems to be leaks at the front anchor plates, cleats, deck/chain plates, wind generator...(still narrowing it down).

We found the water when removing bow/anchor guard to strip paint.
Water removal could only be done by cutting inspection ports in the bottoms of the chain lockers and pumping.

Boat was pumped out August 23 in Grenada and as of Nov. 13..readings still in the 'teens/low 20's. Putting heat lamps on it.

Cost (in Grenada at $40US/hour) to strip, re-glass, epoxy and bottom coat --$10K+paint cost + $725US monthly storage fees.

Good choice to RUN on the Lagoon.