Bridle versus whisker stays

[Sparx]

Not wanting to redirect the current thread regarding bridle sizing….

What is your solution to prevent your anchor bridle from chafing the whisker stays or bob stays on the sprit?


In the past I have used anchor bridle lines of about 30 feet that meet together at the anchor chain. These give a long length that keeps the catamaran pointed into the wind with plenty of stretch available. However these days I have my bowsprit installed. Whisker stays running from the tip of the bowsprit to each bow just above the water line take the load from the sail flying off the sprit. However the long bridle lines chafe on the dynema whisker stays.

My current solution is a Y shape bridle with short arms branching out to cleats port and starboard. The short arms meet at the centerline of the boat and a long tail line (the base of the Y) is then tied to the chain. Ideally this keeps the long leg of the bridle from interacting with the whisker stays. The long tail stretches with the load. The short arms keep the boat pointed into the wind but not as well as the longer bridle lines of the past.

[fxykty]

It’s hard to say without knowing the geometry of your bows. On our cat the whisker stays are like yours - pole end to waterline at the bows. We’ve put Dyneema chafe guard on the lower half. Our bridle lines attach just below our front beam, almost directly above the whisker stays attachment. We lead the bridle lines above the whisker stays and there is no interference. Why is there interference with your setup?

The green arrow points to the bridle. The red arrow points to the whisker stays.

[Sparx]

Ah ! Yours is a very different geometry. I might consider moving the whisker stay attachment aft as a solution. Thank you for this.

On my boat the stays attach very close to the bow. The bridle attaches at a cleat on deck just aft of the whisker stay attachment. The bridle ends up rubbing on the whisker stays unless the bridle is very short or very long.

[Tupaia]

My water (whisker) stays are slightly aft of my anchoring cleats so I don't think this will make much difference. I got round the problem by using HL Wichard snap shackles to attach the stays to the sprit, simply unclip when at anchor and the stays are slack.

[CaptainRivet]

Avoid bow sprit using roundsail and parasailor or use one without whisker stays by just running the bowsprit below the crossmember to the bridgedeck instead just riveting the bowsprit to the crossmember and using whisker stays.

[Tupaia]

Originally Posted by CaptainRivet

Avoid bow sprit using roundsail and parasailor or use one without whisker stays by just running the bowsprit below the crossmember to the bridgedeck instead just riveting the bowsprit to the crossmember and using whisker stays.

The newer FP's use a moulded bow sprit as you describe. It is however very heavy with most of the weight positioned very far forward.

[Leadfree]

You have discovered that your Y-bridle is just a short bridle with complexity, and of course your boat is now sailing about because the bridle arms are not long enough (each arm = beam, entire bridle = 2x beam).

there are only really three solutions if you want to keep a sprit:
-retract the sprit when anchoring (best)
-install chafe protection on the martingales and bridle (will need to be monitored)
-reposition the martingales (but this creates issues with loads on the rig)

[Sparx]

This video fairly well shows the problem I am noodling over.

https://www.facebook.com/reel/1083426229768655

I can use a Y shaped bridle inside the triangle formed by the prodder and whisker stays, or very long straight bridles.

The Y shaped bridle is simple to rig, but does not provide the strong stabilization of the longer bridles. The effect is well illustrated in this video.

The very long bridles will occasionally chafe at the whisker stays. Additionally it is more difficult to run the long bridles over the whisker stays and up to the anchor rode for attaching / detaching the bridles during anchor proceedings.


I am considering shortening the prodder to minimize contact between the long bridles and the whisker stays. This option slightly compromises the effect of the prodder on sail performance. The shorter prodder helps with getting the bridles over and under the whisker stays. Not convinced this is a preferred way to go this way.

I am also considering putting a nylon chafe sleeve over the dynema whisker stays.

[Sparx]

Originally Posted by Leadfree

You have discovered that your Y-bridle is just a short bridle with complexity, and of course your boat is now sailing about because the bridle arms are not long enough (each arm = beam, entire bridle = 2x beam).

there are only really three solutions if you want to keep a sprit:
-retract the sprit when anchoring (best)
-install chafe protection on the martingales and bridle (will need to be monitored)
-reposition the martingales (but this creates issues with loads on the rig)

Yes, this.

Perfectly articulated. Thank you.

I put this thread out there to see if there was another solution I had not considered. So far no.

[Tupaia]

This may not be possible on your cat. I had a small cat no windlass and would anchor from one bow, then add a long single bridle line from the other bow, just enough to pull the anchor line towards the centre. The boat would sit slightly off centre but with the boom tethered off centre would be quite happy.

[team karst]

I have large pelican hooks on the stays. Makes it easy to de-commission the sprit.

[Leadfree]

Originally Posted by Sparx

Yes, this.

Perfectly articulated. Thank you.

I put this thread out there to see if there was another solution I had not considered. So far no.

thanks for the comps.

I'd be all ears myself but I doubt you'll get any other solutions. Me, I retract my sprit. I can set the anchor with it still up and once settled I can take it down, if I don't douse/retract earlier/underway. If the wind would just be from one direction and the boat never swing, the bridle is actually forward of my martingales but of course that is never the case.

What are you hanging from the sprit? A screacher? Have a bag made that clips to the nets and opens up rather like a book. Drop the screach, folding it into the bag b/forth, zip it up, and you can leave the sail on the nets and it will be mostly covered. If you take the tack in you can put that into the bag, too, but then again if you're leaving the sail up you dont care about covering it, presumably

[SailingHarmonie]

There is a serious issue with a bridle with very short legs. The acute angle to the boat GREATLY increases the load on the cleats and the bridle lines. This is not likely to be an issue in "normal" conditions, but in storm force loads, things can break.

I know this doesn't help solve your issue, but it would concern me because I have seen too many cleats ripped out of production boats.

[Sparx]

Thanks for the inputs! Here is where this issue has settled for me.

I am splicing up a Y shaped bridle to replace just using two short bridles from each bow. This is used during settled conditions. The splice eliminates having to figure out the length for each leg every time the bridles are set. The long leg in the center gives more stretch to soften the tugs on the boat.

I will use the long bridle lines for those situations that require longer bridles. These will go over the top of the whisker stays. These lines have chafe protection.

I will be adding chafe protection to the dynema whisker stays. Currently debating using HDPE irrigation tubing or a polyester outer cover from a sailing rope.