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Old 30-07-2012, 10:56   #16
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Re: Balast in a Prout 35.

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Originally Posted by Mike T View Post
Hi there,
I have a Prout 35 circa 1975 and have found a ballasted section in each of the bows which consists of iron punchings set in resin, my question is, was this added at a later date by an owner or was this put in originaly by Prout in the building proccess? The boat seems to float on her marks (waterline) but everything runs slightly downhill towards the bows inside.
These guys are clearly more experience than I am, but since this is apparently a factory installation, I would leave it alone and perhaps start loading the boat a little differently.

If I were inclined to customize a boat like this, I think I would start by FIRST looking for a different boat. Some people are natural born tinkerers I guess, but I think you got the answer you were looking for and I would just let it be. I'm sure there are better ways to spend the time and money.
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Old 30-07-2012, 11:42   #17
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Re: Balast in a Prout 35.

I eventually "bit the bullet" and dug the ballast out, and boy am I glad I did, its like sailing a new boat now, she is faster and more responsive and instead of submarineing when going to windward she now glides happily over the waves. It has raised the bows by a good 6 inches, I took out about 60 stone of the stuff amazingly, which releases a lot of extra storage weight in the bows. To dig the stuff out I used a portable "Kango'' hammer drill, the battery type, I had it set to "chisel" and used a pointed "bit" to dig into and underneath the metal punchings, it was very arduous work and took a couple of days but as I say, well worth it. So Good Luck!!
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Old 30-07-2012, 12:43   #18
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Re: Balast in a Prout 35.

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Originally Posted by Mike T View Post
I eventually "bit the bullet" and dug the ballast out, and boy am I glad I did, its like sailing a new boat now, she is faster and more responsive and instead of submarineing when going to windward she now glides happily over the waves. It has raised the bows by a good 6 inches, I took out about 60 stone of the stuff amazingly, which releases a lot of extra storage weight in the bows. To dig the stuff out I used a portable "Kango'' hammer drill, the battery type, I had it set to "chisel" and used a pointed "bit" to dig into and underneath the metal punchings, it was very arduous work and took a couple of days but as I say, well worth it. So Good Luck!!

Ah well, that's not too bad. Glad to hear it's working better!
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Old 30-07-2012, 13:10   #19
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Re: Balast in a Prout 35.

I own a 1973 snowgoose and yes like others I had the ballast, but last own changed to a smaller engine and took it out. If you have a lighter motor now better to take it out.
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Old 30-07-2012, 13:15   #20
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Re: Balast in a Prout 35.

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Originally Posted by crazycat View Post
I own a 1973 snowgoose and yes like others I had the ballast, but last own changed to a smaller engine and took it out. If you have a lighter motor now better to take it out.
All the talk about reforming the bows and extending the hulls was scaring me a bit. From the original description, it sounded like this stuff was embedded right into the hull itself and couldn't be removed without destroying the hulls.
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Old 30-07-2012, 13:19   #21
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Re: Balast in a Prout 35.

It does look like a job ,glad I didn't have to do it! maybe get a fiberglass guy to look at it for you. if it helps the guy before me told me he used a die grinder (wheel cutter) and there was alot of fiberglass dust!
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Old 18-08-2012, 20:52   #22
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Re: Ballast removal in a Prout 35.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike T View Post
I eventually "bit the bullet" and dug the ballast out, and boy am I glad I did, its like sailing a new boat now, she is faster and more responsive and instead of submarineing when going to windward she now glides happily over the waves. It has raised the bows by a good 6 inches, I took out about 60 stone of the stuff amazingly, which releases a lot of extra storage weight in the bows. To dig the stuff out I used a portable "Kango'' hammer drill, the battery type, I had it set to "chisel" and used a pointed "bit" to dig into and underneath the metal punchings, it was very arduous work and took a couple of days but as I say, well worth it. So Good Luck!!
Mike T,
6", great!!, I estimated only 4". Now I really want to do this. Did this come out in small pieces or larger chunks? How did you contort yourself to get in there? And what model Kango? They rainge in price from really expensive to cheap.
Ed
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