Anchor upgrade on 2012 lagoon 450

[Thalas]

Originally Posted by Moontide

I think maybe some are not aware that the quickest and easiest way to kill a windlass is to use it to pull the boat forward to the anchor (especially if there is any wind or current), or break out a well set anchor. Windlasses are not designed to do either of these jobs. That is what an engine is for. Very common mistake as it seems most (or none) of the "teachers" talk about this.

Bill

ASA definitely covers this (pretty sure it's in the 104 course), but I'm guessing by "teachers," you mean the informal kind. These are the same teachers that let the windlass take the anchor load in a storm.

[Millerslocal]

Have just had my Quick 1700w windlass motor die today. It had been getting progressively slower until fially it stopped.

Wanting to upgrade the motor to a 2000w or stronger as we are 12mm chain and 40kg Mantus. Just recently replaced the whole top drum unit so not really wanting to replace entire windlass at preset.

However the 2000 & 2300 motors are 24V & I have a 12V system, so ot sure what my options are.

[Bean Counter]

Could be your original 12V just needs a clean and new brushes, or your connections are corroded/loose somewhere from Battery to Breaker to solenoid to motor. A lot less expensive than a new motor.

Going to 24V to me seems overkill for the application as the 1700 watt can easily lift the 90lb anchor and say 100ft of chain if anchoring in 100ft = all up around 340 lbs. You will need an extra 24 volt battery system and a way to charge it, so extra cost and weight. I don't think there is a 12V to 24V booster that can handle 100+ amps.

[PaulinOz]

Same thing happened to me after the motor was approx 4 years old. Had not completely stopped but was running very very slow. 13mm Grade L short link chain and 40kg Rocna.



The rear seal had failed and let oil into the motor which was full of carbon dust from the brushes.( The motor is sealed up in a waterproof housing so there is no way for the brush dust to escape) I cleaned it all out and put it back together and still was not working properly.

Took it to old fashion Auto electrician that works on starter motors etc. The motor was put on a test jig and was drawing more than a 100 amps un-loaded. He re-soldered all the connections inside motor, dressed the brushes and cleaned up the commutator. On the test jig motor now ran at normal speed and was drawing less than 30 amps un-loaded. Replaced seal on gearbox changed the oil. All good has been working like new since October, cost $120 AUD, plus seal and oil.

It's an awkward mother to get at, motor held in place by 2 bolts and a lot of sealant. Be careful there is a small key way on the shaft between motor and gearbox that if you drop into the chain pile it's a bitch to find. Do not ask how I know. A cloth over the top of chain after it has been leveled off in the chain locker would help as well.

[DavefromNZ]

Also happened to me 4 1/2 year point. Replace the 1700w motor for same model and not too expensive in the L450 scheme of things. The gears were in excellent condition, looked as new.

I still have a 25kg anchor with 12mm chain. Held me in 60kts so not sure that the heavier anchor necessary?

[rom]

Originally Posted by DavefromNZ

Also happened to me 4 1/2 year point. Replace the 1700w motor for same model and not too expensive in the L450 scheme of things. The gears were in excellent condition, looked as new.

I still have a 25kg anchor with 12mm chain. Held me in 60kts so not sure that the heavier anchor necessary?

Same here.

"upgrading" to 10mm high end chain would be a mistake IMO as the weight of the chain plays a big role in keeping the anchor down the ground. In order to save weight I cut my chain from 100m down to 70m. Only on rare occasions do I need 40+ meters ... So it might also depedn on your usual achorage.

[Bean Counter]

Originally Posted by rom

Same here.

"upgrading" to 10mm high end chain would be a mistake IMO as the weight of the chain plays a big role in keeping the anchor down the ground. In order to save weight I cut my chain from 100m down to 70m. Only on rare occasions do I need 40+ meters ... So it might also depedn on your usual achorage.

Also would need a new gypsy for around $450 US to take the smaller chain.

[John Casey]

Originally Posted by Builder G.

Hello All. I am looking at upgrading my anchor on a new to me Lagoon 450 2012. I have 12mm chain onboard. I am looking to switch to the rockna 88lb.
My question is How do I learn what weight my windlass can pick?

As Bill explained, less about the weight of your anchor, and more about the total weight of anchor and chain, with the way you employ the windlass.

My .02 is to get the anchor you're comfortable with and don't worry about the weight, within reason. Some here will question the need for a Rocna 88 with your boat, but if it helps you feel comfortable then get it.

Consider a secondary & tertiary anchor as well.

We have a Rocna 73 on our Leopard 44 and sleep well at night. We also have a 55lb Lewmar and 66lb Claw on board.

Don't forget about all the other considerations beyond just the anchor itself. Swivels vs shackles, bridle length, bridle hook type, etc.

Some good books to read are Earl Hinz "Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring," and Alex & Daria Balckwell's "Happy Hooking - The Art of Anchoring."