Winter storage prep for northern Great Lakes area

[Bill Silver]

Originally Posted by Tanqueray

Just out of curiosity, how do you drain the pink stuff out of your water lines and engine in the spring?

I am against polluting, but seems pretty impractical to capture the pink stuff from the engine when starting it in the sling and somehow capturing the AF in the water lines.

Greg

I start the engines while on the hard, in the cradle.
I use the inlet for the raw water pump which is fed from a five-gallon jug or pail of fresh water.
(some of our members have installed a tee in the raw water feed hose to facilitate the injection of the fresh water).
Off the side or transom, I hang another bucket or jug to catch the antifreeze. A small rubber hose directs the antifreeze into the pail.
The engine is only run for the time it takes to clear the system of antifreeze. (less than a minute usually).

The antifreeze is then taken for proper disposal at our hazardous waste depot.

[SuW]

Originally Posted by Bill Silver

I start the engines while on the hard, in the cradle.
I use the inlet for the raw water pump which is fed from a five-gallon jug or pail of fresh water.
(some of our members have installed a tee in the raw water feed hose to facilitate the injection of the fresh water).
Off the side or transom, I hang another bucket or jug to catch the antifreeze. A small rubber hose directs the antifreeze into the pail.
The engine is only run for the time it takes to clear the system of antifreeze. (less than a minute usually).

The antifreeze is then taken for proper disposal at our hazardous waste depot.

We just take off the engine cover, close the seacock, open the top of the water strainer and start the engine, while pouring fresh water into the strainer. It's the same way we winterize. We do it on the hard and catch what we can in a bucket.
As you say, a minute or so.

[SuW]

Originally Posted by RobertHan

For many, boat winterization means storing it in an environmentally controlled setting. This may not be a financially feasible option, but covering the boat completely helps to minimize intrusion of moisture. A fitted boat cover will do the job, but shrink-wrapping is an even more effective procedure.

Invest in a cover to keep your boat clean and free from dirt, water, falling leaves and bird droppings, all of which can cause damage if left unchecked. A cover can also prevent UV rays from breaking down hoses and fading carpets and upholstery. During the winter a frame should be used under the cover to distribute the weight of water or snow that may collect on the boat.

Check the bilge pumps to ensure they are working, that the float switches properly activate the pumps, and that they are not hindered by debris. Make sure to check your boat periodically or have the marina check it and report to you. If the water in which you are docked or moored tends to freeze, you should install a de-icing device or bubbling system around your boat.

All good points, Robert.

Your point about UV is very true. We use a white plastic/fibreglass reinforced full winter cover from Reef Industries and our solar panels keep the batteries well topped up, even under the cover.

I'll also mention that condensation is another factor to be considered when covering a boat. If the boat has a winter cover, the inside of this will occasionally be dripping with moisture, even if you have vents. More so with shrink wrap or plastic covers.

And in some places, insects will try to overwinter inside the covers. Be prepared to do some vacuuming of flies and ladybugs in the Spring! If you leave ports or dorades open a little, put insect screens in place to keep them out of the boat.

And do go check on your boat if you can once in a while, especially after any winter storms. The marina staff may not notice any issues, or they may not be present at all for extended periods.