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Wind River · 21-06-2017, 09:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

It seems the OP is talking about toe rail not rub rail.

I understand that he is looking for toe rail. Pretty sure he end up pointed in the right direction for that.

Since these other links were posted and I would likely be looking for rub rail in the future I looked into these.

Even though it is a little off topic, there is quite a difference in price for what appears to be the same/similar product. Actually WM doesn't specify whether or not their rub rail is pre-drilled.

Just an observation, as the OP seemed like he really wanted to shop at WM.

jmschmidt · 21-06-2017, 10:13

A toe rail has nothing to do with rubbing. A rub rail is made of rubber or some other impact absorbing material, the purpose of which is to, well, absorb impacts. A perforated toe rail, usually made of anodized aluminum, is designed to attach genoa, spinnaker and other blocks and gear along the full length of the boat. Since a perforated toe rail is thru-bolted thru the deck and hull flange it functions as a excellant mechanical fastening device to strengthen the deck to hull bond in a glass boat.

bauer965 · 21-06-2017, 10:16

Matt, so please clear up the apparent confusion and tell us what you are looking for: Toe Rail or Rub Rail? The aluminum above the deck joint, or the stainless along the side of the hull (note, not all boats have this)?

I specifically mention the deck joint because, that is in fact the primary purpose of the type of toe rail that I believe is being referenced. In addition to the 5200, it's holding the boat together at the hull/deck joint. The security it provides for one's footing (in absence of a bulwark), as as attachment points for blocks and such, are secondary benefits.
The alternative to this design is a glued/bolted deck joint that is then aesthetically capped with a Cap Rail, typically of teak.

Somehow I feel you may be referring to the Rub Rail though, as I can't imagine why you'd be replacing a metal Toe Rail, absent significant damage.

So which is it?

Jannie Radiance · 21-06-2017, 10:44

It is a rub strake. Rubber.

Cadence · 21-06-2017, 10:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by bauer965

Matt, so please clear up the apparent confusion and tell us what you are looking for: Toe Rail or Rub Rail? The aluminum above the deck joint, or the stainless along the side of the hull (note, not all boats have this)?

I specifically mention the deck joint because, that is in fact the primary purpose of the type of toe rail that I believe is being referenced. In addition to the 5200, it's holding the boat together at the hull/deck joint. The security it provides for one's footing (in absence of a bulwark), as as attachment points for blocks and such, are secondary benefits.
The alternative to this design is a glued/bolted deck joint that is then aesthetically capped with a Cap Rail, typically of teak.

Somehow I feel you may be referring to the Rub Rail though, as I can't imagine why you'd be replacing a metal Toe Rail, absent significant damage.

So which is it?

Dave22q · 21-06-2017, 10:59

A rub rail is mounted on the sides of your boat so the rail is what rubs against a dock or pile. It will usually have a half moon cross section where the flat part mounts to your boat. A toe rail is generally a rectangular cross section mounted on your deck with the narrow edge down. It will have half moon sections cut out of the bottom to give a scalloped look. The idea is to give you a toehold but generally is more decorative than functional. You commonly see teak toe rails but not rub rails which are seldom teak and frequently have hard rubber inserts. Toe rails generally run 4-8' while rub rails run the length of the boat. Hope this helps?

bauer965 · 21-06-2017, 11:19

Dave, you are describing another piece found on some boats (typically those with no raised deck edge) that is also called a toe rail. However, that is not the only part called the toe rail.
It is universal that the metal channel that runs the length of the deck edge, and provides security to the hull/deck joint, is also called a toe rail.
Do a google image search of "toe rail" and clearly most of the pics are showing these channels. And the first regular search item is: TOE RAILS – GOIOT-SYSTEMS

Yes, on my other boat (a Capri 25), I have teak toe rails on the foredeck as you describe. However, since this is "CruisersForum" I am willing to bet 95% of "Cruisers" don't have teak toe rails on their foredeck. Yes, surely 1 person will respond to this saying that they do, but that doesn't change things.

We should just wait to hear back from Matt for clarification of what he has and is asking about, instead of everyone just restating what others have already said.

**Don C L** · 21-06-2017, 12:06

What you are looking for is called a slotted toe rail. If you already have track for your jib sheet blocks, and a strong and dry hull to deck joint, consider it carefully because it does require drilling a lot of holes.

roberthowell · 21-06-2017, 13:19

crestaluminum.com/toerail is the place to look

UNCIVILIZED · 21-06-2017, 14:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Aluminum toe rail is very bendable to fit the boat.
One warning about perforated aluminum toerails. Many of the boats built with that leak and it's nearly impossible to fix. You're drilling maybe a 100 holes in your deck joint each with a likelihood of leaking at some point.

I'd have to say that this is mostly fallacious. As I've sailed on hundreds of boats built with this kind of toe rail, & have yet to see one leak.
Also, the toe rail IS part of the hull to deck joint, which when the boat is constructed, said joint is sealed along it's entire length. And typically is fastened with numerous closely spaced bolts all along it's length. Which on boats with a toe rail, the bolt heads secure the toe rail to the flange of where the deck & hull come together. Thus making it part of the joint.

Plus, if anything, more bolts get used on boats with toe rails than on ones without it. Which in my mind makes the joint less likely to leak, given a stronger clamping pressure, with smaller gaps in between each fastener. As with such slotted toe rails, it's pretty common to have bolts every 4" or so, while on boats without it, it's not uncommon for this spacing to grow to 6" or even 8".

Of course there's a sealant in the joint as well, in between the hull & deck, along with the fasteners holding things together. Well, unless you have a boat who's hull & deck are fully glassed together, around the entire perimeter of the boat.

For the OP, & to further "complicate" this thread. There's toe rail track which has holes in it so that you can adjust where your jib leads are located, fore & aft. It's commonly referred to as T-track or jib/genoa track, & is shaped like the letter T in cross section.

Deltasailor · 21-06-2017, 14:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by zengirl

Rub rail and toe rail are two different things. Rub rail is for side of boat so if you bang into something you have a little protection. One on each side of the boat. Toe rail goes around the entire boat on deck where staunchions are at intervals. Please correct me (anybody) if I'm wrong.

You're not wrong. The Toe Rail is to brace your foot against to avoid going over the side on boats without a gunnel.

tdoster · 21-06-2017, 16:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deltasailor

You're not wrong. The Toe Rail is to brace your foot against to avoid going over the side on boats without a gunnel.

Or trip over, or stub your "toe" on as you are getting on and off the boat.

For the person who asked why the difference in price between West and everyone else, it is not because it is different on either the stainless or aluminum, it is just because West has one heck of a mark up on the same thing. We found out the hard way when needing two 12 foot sections and West was 5 times higher than anyone else for the EXACT same thing at retail, and Port supply was 2 1/2 times more than others retail.