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13-12-2020, 17:53
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Toronto
Boat: C&C 30
Posts: 137
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SV Emoyeni
Hello Everyone. Long time member with a recently purchased boat, "Emoyeni", a 1974 C&C 30. I wanted to use this post to serve as an introduction, build thread, and catch all bucket of posts about my boat. While she sails like a dream and looks great from 30 feet away, up close she has a lot of issues that need addressing. She is currently looking all sad and lonely on the hard, being snowed upon in Ontario, Canada. Not sure how to get a lot of large photos to show up on the site, but here is a photo album of how she was in November, 2020: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmSN4ePo
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13-12-2020, 18:07
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kingston / Thousand Islands, Ontario
Boat: C&C 35 Mk.II
Posts: 343
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Re: SV Emoyeni
Nice A sistership to yours was our across-the-aisle neighbour this summer. They're nice, elegant boats, and look like a lot more money than they really cost once they're painted and polished up.
I wouldn't be surprised if yours rolled off the line within a few months of our C&C 35. 1972-77 ish was a really good period for C&C. If you call up the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes in Kingston, they might be able to get you some scans of her original construction plans. A lot of concept and production-release drawings by the Three Georges ended up in their archive.
Yachts do get sad & lonely when tarped up on the hard. I tend to drop by just to say hello to ours every couple of weeks. Pretty sure that's considered normal.
I'd inspect and re-torque the keel bolts before attempting to fix the "smile" at the hull/keel joint. Many (most?) '70s C&Cs get that to some degree, and just shoving more fairing putty in the gap does not solve it. The engine strainer scoop would also be high on my list, before it sucks up an old grocery bag. So would the broken handrail - you really do use those a lot. Then the wet deck around the chainplates, for which - if possible - I'd pull the chainplates out, excavate & backfill the damaged core with thickened epoxy, then do a dye penetrant check on the chainplates before reinstalling & rebedding. The rest of this, I'd put on the "When you feel like it" list; none of it will stop you from enjoying the boat around Toronto. I'd probably leave the instruments right to the end as you don't really need any of them.
You can put a Beta 20 or 25 diesel in her if you like, they come as a direct drop-in Atomic Four replacement. Or she could take a 10 hp electric drive for getting in and out of the marina, but wouldn't be able to fit enough batteries to do much more than a lap around Toronto Island in a dead calm. Either repower option will cost at least as much as you paid for the boat and will only add about 10-20% to her value, so is only worthwhile if you plan to keep her a long time and don't care about the certain financial loss. Otherwise, install a good sparkproof bilge blower and keep the Atomic Four tuned up.
__________________
Matt Marsh
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13-12-2020, 18:52
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Toronto
Boat: C&C 30
Posts: 137
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Re: SV Emoyeni
Thanks Matt! I love the lines of the boat more and more every time I see it. She belonged to a relative so I hope to take care of her and don't mind spending a little more time/money than I would for just any old boat. And the boat just feels amazing under sail - nimble yet confident.
Regarding the moisture, I've heard that 15% is a good threshold for when you want to initiate this repair, but what % is the threshold where one can stop expanding the size of the cutout? Should I buy a hydrometer or can I go by "look and feel" as I'm doing the cutout? I think I'm just hoping I don't have to make a hole going all the way down the deck from the lifeline stanchion to the chainplate and waste valve.
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14-12-2020, 08:55
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kingston / Thousand Islands, Ontario
Boat: C&C 35 Mk.II
Posts: 343
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Re: SV Emoyeni
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emoyeni
Thanks Matt! I love the lines of the boat more and more every time I see it. She belonged to a relative so I hope to take care of her and don't mind spending a little more time/money than I would for just any old boat. And the boat just feels amazing under sail - nimble yet confident.
Regarding the moisture, I've heard that 15% is a good threshold for when you want to initiate this repair, but what % is the threshold where one can stop expanding the size of the cutout? Should I buy a hydrometer or can I go by "look and feel" as I'm doing the cutout? I think I'm just hoping I don't have to make a hole going all the way down the deck from the lifeline stanchion to the chainplate and waste valve.
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I would start excavating the old core from the chainplate hole and see how far you get. There is a clear, extremely obvious difference in texture between wet/rotted balsa and still-OK balsa once you start scraping the rotted stuff out. The moisture meter is just a really rough way to see, non-destructively, whether it's "probably OK" or "probably shot". What you really find with your hook & scraper is what matters.
__________________
Matt Marsh
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15-03-2021, 06:20
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Toronto
Boat: C&C 30
Posts: 137
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Re: SV Emoyeni
I'm happy to report the first update! As all the depth/speed/wind indicators were malfunctioning, I went ahead and bought a new system from Raymarine. I also decided to replace the "coffee can" autohelm analog autopilot with Raymarine. I haven't decided yet whether to get a chart plotter or instead place a MagSafe charge port and use an iPhone plus (or iPad mini) to do the navigation with Navionics.
I would be curious to hear what the more experienced sailors out there would recommend regarding placement of these instruments. There are currently four cutouts on the forward bulkhead of the cockpit where my wind, depth, speed, and autopilot displays would fit in perfectly. However, certainly for the autopilot and maybe even for all the others, it makes sense to have them where they can be seen from the helm. On the other hand, if I had all four instruments plus a chart plotter at the helm, this would create a super crowded helm. Hmmm... Where to put these instruments?
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15-03-2021, 06:58
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 2,690
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Re: SV Emoyeni
Quote:
Originally Posted by marshmat
Nice
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+1
She is really beautiful, Doc! Never get tired of those lovely S&S lines...
Quote:
Originally Posted by marshmat
Yachts do get sad & lonely when tarped up on the hard. I tend to drop by just to say hello to ours every couple of weeks. Pretty sure that's considered normal.
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Absolutely!
Quote:
Originally Posted by marshmat
You can put a Beta 20 or 25 diesel in her if you like, they come as a direct drop-in Atomic Four replacement.
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I'm envious of even this contemplated repowering. Betas are my go-to engines of choice these days.
Quote:
Originally Posted by marshmat
Or she could take a 10 hp electric drive for getting in and out of the marina, but it wouldn't be good for much more than motoring around Toronto Island in a dead calm...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marshmat
Otherwise, install a good sparkproof bilge blower and keep the Atomic Four tuned up.
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+1
While I, too, don't much like gas engines nor Atomic4s, a good tune-up and good blower as suggested above would be a stop-gap for the time being (this season - so you'll be out there *sailing*!) and would be more reliable than electric... in my humble opinion.
Oh, and ultimately a heads-up instrument arch over the companionway (shown in the first veddy fancy boat pic tucked under the dodger in the Sail article) might be the thing you'd want for your new instruments...? Just a thought. Here's a Sail magazine article about the various choices and rationale for each:
Know-How: Sailing Instruments
https://www.sailmagazine.com/gear/kn...ng-instruments
Congrats on your new boat, Emoyeni, and keep those pictures coming, so we can continue living vicariously!
Fair winds,
LittleWing77
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24-04-2021, 07:45
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Toronto
Boat: C&C 30
Posts: 137
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Re: SV Emoyeni
Got some VC 17 for the underside. Will be replacing the depth and water speed sensors with raymarine units. How do you determine whether the barrier coat is OK or if it needs to be sanded down and redone? Photo attached is the worst spot where you can see some cracks of the barrier coat where the cradle pressed onto.
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24-04-2021, 08:11
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 2,690
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Re: SV Emoyeni
Quote:
Originally Posted by Emoyeni
Got some VC 17 for the underside. Will be replacing the depth and water speed sensors with raymarine units. How do you determine whether the barrier coat is OK or if it needs to be sanded down and redone? Photo attached is the worst spot where you can see some cracks of the barrier coat where the cradle pressed onto.
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Looks okay, Doc.
Based on your one pic, maybe next season do a full grind-and-repaint bottom job - you don't seem to have a huge paint build-up. Those spots (where the pads were)? Just paint over. Did your Uncle leave a can of the leftover paint somewhere? If not, just look around the yard disposal bins discarded partial cans, you'll only need about 4 rollers' worth...
Remember, our fresh-water environment is not as hard on hulls as salt, so we have a bit more maintenance leeway...
When's your launch date?
Fair Winds,
LittleWing77
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24-04-2021, 08:13
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 2,690
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Re: SV Emoyeni
What's that frozen something leaking from the thru-hull...?
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24-04-2021, 08:35
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Toronto
Boat: C&C 30
Posts: 137
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Re: SV Emoyeni
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleWing77
What's that frozen something leaking from the thru-hull...?
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That’s the cockpit drain
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24-04-2021, 08:36
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Toronto, Ontario
Posts: 2,690
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Re: SV Emoyeni
EDIT: Just went back and looked at ALL of your keel pics.
Hm. Well, when you properly grind out that keel and re-epoxy... myself, I would do the whole bottom, grind and re-paint everything all at once, but that would be a lot of work so close to launch...
When did you say your launch is?
I apologize for not looking at all of your pictures initially. I just looked at the one you provided in the previous post + the VC17. Mea culpa!
Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleWing77
Looks okay, Doc.
Based on your one pic, maybe next season do a full grind-and-repaint bottom job - you don't seem to have a huge paint build-up. Those spots (where the pads were)? Just paint over. Did your Uncle leave a can of the leftover paint somewhere? If not, just look around the yard disposal bins discarded partial cans, you'll only need about 4 rollers' worth...
Remember, our fresh-water environment is not as hard on hulls as salt, so we have a bit more maintenance leeway...
When's your launch date?
Fair Winds,
LittleWing77
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05-05-2021, 08:16
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Toronto
Boat: C&C 30
Posts: 137
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Re: SV Emoyeni
Hey everyone, question about the zinc. I just replaced the old one and it looks like it fits the shaft correctly, but there is a persistent gap between the two halves. Is this normal?
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09-05-2021, 01:55
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Toronto
Boat: C&C 30
Posts: 137
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Re: SV Emoyeni
She’s getting a super smooth, clean bottom!
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18-05-2021, 16:20
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Toronto
Boat: C&C 30
Posts: 137
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Re: SV Emoyeni
Time for another update. After sanding the bottom down to 120 grit, four coats of interlux bottom paint were applied. Attention was then given to the topsides. Apparently the paint was last updated in the 1980’s. Interestingly, in the port beam area, we were able to actually scrape off the 80’s paint off the original paint. I suspect either a prep issue or this part of the boat always faced south and eventually the paint has lost its adhesion. The rest of the paint was so strong that as we tried to scrape it off, it would start pulling up bits of the gelcoat with it. In other places, there were areas with a bunch of blisters in the paint. These were painstakingly popped, ground down to gel coat. There were also a bunch of spider cracks in the hull. These were dremmeled down to gel coat. The hull looks like it’s been in a war, but at the same time I guess this has to be done to make her smooth and strong in the end!
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